How to Expose Film in Bright Light?

[Aaron Hellman]

Help me tame contrast and bring back shadow detail when shooting in bright, sunny conditions.

I often shoot my M2 with available light indoors, using Tri-X rated at 400, often at 1/60 or 1/30 and between f2.8-5.6. I develop in HC-110. I like the results. There is shadow detail and the highlights look about right to me. However, when I shoot outside, often in bright or sunny conditions the results are awful. Too much contrast and no, or very little shadow detail. Ugh!

Am I right that I can get better results in bright conditions by rating Tri-x at a lower E.I. (let's say at 250) and shortening development? Is there any other technique?

I really appreciate everyone's help!

 

[FujiLove]

Yes, pulling the film should lower the contrast. Also try reducing the amount of agitation. You could go all way and hardly agitate at all: i.e. stand develop. There are developers specifically designed to tame contrast and make printing easier, such as Barry Thornton's two bath.

http://www.awh-imaging.co.uk/barrythornton/2bath2.htm

 

[mfogiel]

In bright sunlight, if you are after shadow detail, you should rate Tri X at EI 100-125, or if you can meter the darkest shadows where you still want details, then take that reading and then open 2 stops. Unless you wet print, you can develop the film normally, taking care not to overdevelop. I once made a test in harsh light with the sunny 16 rule on Tri X, and best overall result was at EI 32.

 

[John Bragg]

I really know where you are coming from with Tri-X in harsh lighting. Like many others, I rate this at Ei200 and this helps with shadow detail. As MFogiel rightly says, Tri-X will bear a lot of exposure so that gives you the shadow detail you need. The rest is down to correct development to hold highlights in check. I find that 12 minutes @20°c in HC-110 dilution H (1:63) is about right and certainly as good a place to start as any. Dont over agitate with HC-110 as it will blow the highlights. Good luck and I hope this helps.

Example of Tri-X used this way in harsh light. Padstow Mayday celebrations.

[/url]IMG_15-05-2013_08-31-01 by John Bragg, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[shimokita]

Kind of a tangent from the other comments... In his book "The Negative", Ansel Adams talks about Pre-Exposure as a way of approaching a subject of high contrast. There are suggested ways of doing a double exposure with an M2 (not that I have tried this). Adams also explains how to Pre-Expose an entire roll in the darkroom using a weak tungsten light. There is also a short section on ND filters in "The Negative".

 

[Rayt]

I use low contrast lenses like single coated vintage lenses and lower contrast film like HP5+ @200 processes in Rodinal 1:50 and cut times by 10 percent or so with minimum agitation.

 

[telenous]

I usually opt for medium fast film, which is tailor-made for situations like these. It rises to a well-behaved amount of contrast with recommended development, right out of the box. You can use pulled TriX by all means too. But, bear in mind, it does have a distinctive "open" look to it that medium speed films like FP4+, Delta 100 or TMax 100 don't have, for regular speed/development regimes. I think the example above shows that well. Other stuff like ND filters will also help, if you don't want to change film mid-roll.



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