How to get started?

[david3558]

Thanks for tips, are there any strategies for loading film onto rolls in the changing bag? I saw a few strategies and was wondering which one would be best for use in the bag; one of which was the one where the reel rests sideways like a wheel and push the film towards it.

Also when you mean practice with unexposed film won't that mean I'd waste the film?

 

[wjlapier]

Is the fixer absolutely necessary? What does it do? I have Rodinal which I use with Kodak fixer and Photoflo. I'm curious if you could skip the fixer and go directly to Photoflo. I used to use a stop, but now only use water, fix, rinse, Photoflo, hang dry.

Oh, to bring down dust where you hang ( in a shower ) run the shower while rinsing, then hang ( with water turned off of course ).

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Is the fixer absolutely necessary? What does it do? I have Rodinal which I use with Kodak fixer and Photoflo. I'm curious if you could skip the fixer and go directly to Photoflo. I used to use a stop, but now only use water, fix, rinse, Photoflo, hang dry.

Yes, do use fixer. And, permawash then final water wash to remove the fixer. Both steps are required for the negatives to be permanent.

(Also, be aware of the dangers of Rodinal: caustic, dangerous on skin contact and especially dangerous to the eyes. Careful handling! But, that's for another thead.)

Develop
Stop
Fixer
First wash
Permawash
Final wash
Photoflo
Dry

 

[daninjc]

My suggestion for loading the reels, is (1) get Hewes (or similar quality) SS reels, don't cheap on those. Hewes are a breeze to load. (2) Practice outside of the bag a few times with an unexposed roll that you're willing to sacrifice. It's very easy but you have to try it yourself.

 

[Nomad Z]

Also when you mean practice with unexposed film won't that mean I'd waste the film?

The idea is to waste an unexposed roll while practicing, rather than waste one or more exposed rolls due to not practicing.

Regarding trimming the end of the film, I never wind the film back into the cassette, which means I can trim it in the light and then put it into the bag for loading. It also means that the snipped off corners (for easier feeding into the reel) are snipped off outside the bag and readily accounted for.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Is the fixer absolutely necessary? What does it do? I have Rodinal which I use with Kodak fixer and Photoflo. I'm curious if you could skip the fixer and go directly to Photoflo. I used to use a stop, but now only use water, fix, rinse, Photoflo, hang dry.

Oh, to bring down dust where you hang ( in a shower ) run the shower while rinsing, then hang ( with water turned off of course ).

Without fixer, the film is still opaque and will darken with exposure to light. Fixer, developer, and photo flo are all non-negotiable. Stop bath is optional and not needed. Hypo clear is another chemical some use. Its not needed and a waste of time and money with modern films (its needed for fiber base printing papers to remove fixer absorbed in the paper. Film is plastic and does not absorb fixer so a few minutes wash removed it all from the emulsion).)

 

[GaryLH]

Without fixer, the film is still opaque and will darken with exposure to light. Fixer, developer, and photo flo are all non-negotiable. Stop bath is optional and not needed. Hypo clear is another chemical some use. Its not needed and a waste of time and money with modern films (its needed for fiber base printing papers to remove fixer absorbed in the paper. Film is plastic and does not absorb fixer so a few minutes wash removed it all from the emulsion).)

I do not use hypo clear as well for negatives. I have never done stand style developing when u just let it sit in the developer for a very long time. I was thinking about try that one day, your comment brought up a question... Do u need extended wash time or use of hypo clear when doing stand developing or follow the normal procedure here for wash time?

Gary

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Hypo clear is another chemical some use. Its not needed and a waste of time and money with modern films (its needed for fiber base printing papers to remove fixer absorbed in the paper. Film is plastic and does not absorb fixer so a few minutes wash removed it all from the emulsion).)

Chris, I'm sure you are right, but I do use Perma Wash (a.k.a. "hypo clear") with film. Sure the film is plastic, but the emulsion is a gelatin that does absorb and hold some fixer.

The recommended wash times and amount of water used are much less with Perma Wash. The other option is a longer wash period with just water.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I do not use hypo clear as well for negatives. I have never done stand style developing when u just let it sit in the developer for a very long time. I was thinking about try that one day, your comment brought up a question... Do u need extended wash time or use of hypo clear when doing stand developing or follow the normal procedure here for wash time?

Gary

The developer is destroyed by the fixer, so long developing times do not require longer washes. I don't do stand developing anyway, never thought it gave good results.

 

[GaryLH]

Thanks Chris
Gary

 

[Chris101]

Is the fixer absolutely necessary? What does it do? I have Rodinal which I use with Kodak fixer and Photoflo. I'm curious if you could skip the fixer and go directly to Photoflo. I used to use a stop, but now only use water, fix, rinse, Photoflo, hang dry.
...

Yes, fixer is necessary. It removes the unexposed/undeveloped silver from the emulsion. Without doing that, the silver halide will turn black over time, and your image will disappear. Thus the name, it 'fixes' the image.

Chris, I'm sure you are right, but I do use Perma Wash (a.k.a. "hypo clear") with film. Sure the film is plastic, but the emulsion is a gelatin that does absorb and hold some fixer.

The recommended wash times and amount of water used are much less with Perma Wash. The other option is a longer wash period with just water.

The amount of time necessary to remove the Permawash is as long as it would take to remove the fixer. Residual fixer or fixer remover will result in eventual degradation of the film.

 

[david3558]

Hey everyone, thanks for the help so far! With my Leica M6 coming in a couple of days I want to get ready by purchasing everything else I need.

Could you guys be so kind as to help me put together a budget "kit" I can buy? I want to have everything I need but don't need to splurge on the unnecessary while I am still learning. I am planning to shoot with Tri-X film.

Ex:

Arista Premium
LegacyPro K-76 (D76 copy)
Ilford Fixer
Thermometer
Changing Bag

Thanks in advance

 

[shiro_kuro]

Check out Dante Stella's "The Guerrilla Darkroom"

A great help for me when I was starting out ....

http://www.dantestella.com/technical/guerilla.html

http://www.dantestella.com/technical/guerilla.html

One of the best sites I have ever come across .....

 

[wjlapier]

Hey everyone, thanks for the help so far! With my Leica M6 coming in a couple of days I want to get ready by purchasing everything else I need.

Could you guys be so kind as to help me put together a budget "kit" I can buy? I want to have everything I need but don't need to splurge on the unnecessary while I am still learning. I am planning to shoot with Tri-X film.

Ex:

Arista Premium
LegacyPro K-76 (D76 copy)
Ilford Fixer
Thermometer
Changing Bag

Thanks in advance

A tank to develop your film in. I use plastic type from Freestyle.
Bottle opener to open film canister.
Blunt tip scissors
Bottles to store your chems
Sleeves to store your negs
Timer
Containers to keep chems in your bath
Photoflo

Just off the top of my head.

Keep notes of all you do.

 

[paulfish4570]

i would suggest you use ilford hp5 instead of tri-x/arista premium. it is easier to reel, and dries flat.

 

[menthel]

Agreed. HP5 is a good starter film. For my first few goes I went with it as the film is a little thicker and less likely to curl up badly when loading. Mind you when you come to load something like legacy pro it's a bit of a shock! Mind you I am still a novice!

 

[astro8]

Oh dear...it all sounds too interesting to ignore.

I'm off to hunt up some equipment and chemicals....just waiting on a Canon IIf to arrive to shoot that roll of Tri-x I bought 2 years ago!

I can see it now...films, chemicals, scanners and software for a while...then I'll be on to enlargers, darkroom and papers...there is no end.

Thanks to all for the information...there's a lot of us newbies out here.

 

[newtorf]

I just wrote an article about my experience (sorry in a different language other than English), and here is the list of things I used:

　　1 changing bag (bought second hand)
　　1 film cassette opener from freestyle
　　1 scissor
　　1 stainless steel development tank with 2 35mm reel (bought second hand)
　　4 500ml drinking water bottles (do not throw away for recycle!)
　　1 500ml (or 1000ml) measure cup (bought second hand)
　　1 15-25ml measure cup (comes with baby mortain from grocery store)
　　2 set of film clips from freestyle
　　1 Thermometer from freestyle
　　1 sponge
　　1 timer (ipod touch)


Chemicals:

　　Kodak HC-110, one shot for development, use the 15-25ml measure cup to measure 7.5ml, 12.5ml, or 15ml, and dialute to 480ml/500ml
　　Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, dialuted from 8ml to 480ml, reusable many times
　　Ilford Rapid Fixer, dialuted from 96ml to 480ml, reusable for at least 7-8 rolls
　　Arista Flow Wetting Agent, dialuted from 2ml, reusable many times

Hey everyone, thanks for the help so far! With my Leica M6 coming in a couple of days I want to get ready by purchasing everything else I need.

Could you guys be so kind as to help me put together a budget "kit" I can buy? I want to have everything I need but don't need to splurge on the unnecessary while I am still learning. I am planning to shoot with Tri-X film.

Ex:

Arista Premium
LegacyPro K-76 (D76 copy)
Ilford Fixer
Thermometer
Changing Bag

Thanks in advance

 

[david3558]

Guys,

Super overwhelmed right now. Can someone just list the bare essentials I need?

Best,
David

 

[batterytypehah!]

What Chris101 said (post #18 above) is really very good and thorough.

You will probably find plastic reels easier to use, but whether plastic or stainless, make sure you practice with a throwaway strip of film, first with your eyes open but also without looking/in the dark.

The type of thermometer is not critical -- in fact, some developers are very forgiving and you could do without.

Use 24 exposure rolls because loading 36 can get very frustrating without some practice. If you're feeling like you're not getting anywhere, stay calm, try to back off the reel and start over (or put the film inside the tank, close the lid, and make another attempt later). And don't wear a luminous watch inside the bag.

Now, "absolute minimum" is one reel and a couple of open containers in a totally dark room. I'm not even kidding, I've done that. You just need something to tell the time. Ask your s.o. to time you outside the door or line up some songs that add up to the length you need.