maximus123
Newbie
Hey I’ve been taking pictures since September 2017 so i’m fairly new to all this. I have about 4 or 5 point and shoots like the leica c2-zoom, the nikon lite touch zoom 120, the yashica zoom image 70se, and, the newest to my collection, the yashica t4 super d. I want a certain look for my photos so I started trying to search different films shot with a yashica t4 super d to see how the images came out and I saw this look that gave the pictures a pinkish/bluish cold kind of look, sort of like the one gunner stahls pictures look like, but after using fuji 400 like the person who posted the pictures said they used my pictures came out no where near how i wanted them to. I tried provia, vista 400, fuji 200, fuji 400, lomography yellow, and vista 200 but the pictures just don’t come out as i want them. I wanted to know if someone could recommend what film to use for my pictures to come out like this on ANY of my several point and shoot cameras.
These photos are the type of look I am going for:
https://flic.kr/p/DvArDV
https://flic.kr/p/225J52m
Also using the yashica t4 super d the pictures came out weird and like just not that sharp, even my yashica zoom image 70se pictures come out sharper and that only cost me $50 bucks. Am i using this camera wrong or what ? Any pointers, tips, anything that can help me achieve that look.
These are photos from my yashica t4 super d using fuji 400 superia:
https://flic.kr/p/237CcdL
https://flic.kr/p/DvATni
This is a photo using my yashica zoom image 70se w fuji400 superia:
https://flic.kr/p/237CzSo
IGNORE THE ATTACHMENTS THEY CAME OUT BLURRY SO I ADDED LINKS
These photos are the type of look I am going for:
https://flic.kr/p/DvArDV
https://flic.kr/p/225J52m
Also using the yashica t4 super d the pictures came out weird and like just not that sharp, even my yashica zoom image 70se pictures come out sharper and that only cost me $50 bucks. Am i using this camera wrong or what ? Any pointers, tips, anything that can help me achieve that look.
These are photos from my yashica t4 super d using fuji 400 superia:
https://flic.kr/p/237CcdL
https://flic.kr/p/DvATni
This is a photo using my yashica zoom image 70se w fuji400 superia:
https://flic.kr/p/237CzSo
IGNORE THE ATTACHMENTS THEY CAME OUT BLURRY SO I ADDED LINKS
Attachments
NeonKnight
Established
Are you using flash? That would cool things down. Are you scanning these yourself? If so, I would just mess around with the white balance. If you are getting lab scans I think the Noritsu machines give cooler results than the Frontiers.
maximus123
Newbie
Thank you for the reply, Yes I am using flash I just edited the post with some links to show 3 photos of the photos i've taken but no I do not know the first thing about how to scan photos although my college does have a room where I can so I may get into that.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
With color print films, like you're using, the color balance is controlled during printing. Any color print film can give 'cool' color balance. You can ask the lab that processes it to print them with cooler tone.
Years ago when I was in college, I worked at a one hour lab. One of our regular customers liked his prints too dark and too red in tone. I thought they looked horrid but he insisted we print that way. So, we did.
Years ago when I was in college, I worked at a one hour lab. One of our regular customers liked his prints too dark and too red in tone. I thought they looked horrid but he insisted we print that way. So, we did.
NeonKnight
Established
I think to get this look you'll want to be fairly close to your subject, maybe arms length? The first two images look thin, i.e., underexposed. Being closer might help here. I like the image from the Yashica zoom, good pose and a few tweaks to white balance should get you closer to your vision. Try GIMP photo editor, it's free and there are many tutorials online.
Arbitrarium
Well-known
It's in the scanning and auto colour correcting (or lack of it), not the film or camera. If you're getting the films done at a mini lab or 1hr photo they'll scan/print with the colours saturated and vibrant. Your goal 'look' looks like home-scanned flash photos without colour correction to me.
Also the green tint to your photos is from underexposure and tungsten light. If you mostly shoot at night, try some tungsten film and overexpose it.
Also the green tint to your photos is from underexposure and tungsten light. If you mostly shoot at night, try some tungsten film and overexpose it.
maximus123
Newbie
Thanks for all the replies and wow I was oblivious to the fact that how the film is developed has an effect on the pictures. I usually take the film to a store called 86 street photo in NYC and it takes them an hour to do it and I dont ask for anything special. So when giving the film to the developers I can ask them like what they can do when scanning to get the photos to the look I want and they'll tell me what they can do ?
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Yep! They CAN do it; whether they will is up to them. Show them a few example images so they know what you're talking about.
Fauxtographer
Member
Also, be mindful of...
Also, be mindful of...
...the fact that photos you see on social media (Instagram especially) are rarely posted without having some kind of filter/editing applied. There are filters on Instagram that give the kind of results you showed. As others have mentioned here there are also other editing programs that will give the same result.
I’ll be first to say it too, if you ever want to sell that T4 Super D I would be very interested depending upon its condition!
Also, be mindful of...
...the fact that photos you see on social media (Instagram especially) are rarely posted without having some kind of filter/editing applied. There are filters on Instagram that give the kind of results you showed. As others have mentioned here there are also other editing programs that will give the same result.
I’ll be first to say it too, if you ever want to sell that T4 Super D I would be very interested depending upon its condition!
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
Your images look underexposed, which forced the scanner to bring up the shadows and gave that weird yellowish color to the shadows.
One thing to remember about P&S cameras, or really nearly all photographic meters, is that they are easily tricked. The meter in your camera wants to shoot the correct exposure based on the light reflecting off of your subject towards the camera. It doesn't know that you want a black car to stay black in the photo, it thinks you want it to be 18% gray (middle gray). Same with a sand castle built out of bright white sand on a sunny day. It thinks you want it to be middle gray again.
Most of the time the latitude in film will compensate and automatic printing does a pretty good job, but in really dark situations like your shot of the guy with the hoodie/jacket, it runs up against the limit and you get those weird warm/orange shadows which aren't properly dark. So, that throws off the entire color balance of the shot.
I did some quick editing of the guy in the hoodie/jacket (mostly dropping shadows down, and changing the white balance/color temp) in LightRoom, hopefully it's OK to post. If not, let me know and I'll delete it. It's not perfect but for a P&S at night with 400 speed film and an auto scan, it's probably as good as you can expect.
One thing to remember about P&S cameras, or really nearly all photographic meters, is that they are easily tricked. The meter in your camera wants to shoot the correct exposure based on the light reflecting off of your subject towards the camera. It doesn't know that you want a black car to stay black in the photo, it thinks you want it to be 18% gray (middle gray). Same with a sand castle built out of bright white sand on a sunny day. It thinks you want it to be middle gray again.
Most of the time the latitude in film will compensate and automatic printing does a pretty good job, but in really dark situations like your shot of the guy with the hoodie/jacket, it runs up against the limit and you get those weird warm/orange shadows which aren't properly dark. So, that throws off the entire color balance of the shot.
I did some quick editing of the guy in the hoodie/jacket (mostly dropping shadows down, and changing the white balance/color temp) in LightRoom, hopefully it's OK to post. If not, let me know and I'll delete it. It's not perfect but for a P&S at night with 400 speed film and an auto scan, it's probably as good as you can expect.
