How to Transition to Jobo

bwcolor

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I have been developing my C-41 and B&W in Stainless tanks with Hewes reels. I'm tired of the C-41 chemistry leaking out of the tanks and I want to try E-6, so I picked up an EBay Jobo CPE w/o lift with 2840, 2820 and 1520 tanks. I don't know if the 1520 comes with a core.. I also picked up a 1510 with reel and core and a 1540 from B&H. Ordered two 1510 reels from Calumet, but doubt they will come through and have one and found one other that is in stock. So, I have at least one magnet and two reels.

My question is with regards to B&W. I primarily use Rodinal, Xtol and TMax Developer. I usually agitate less rather than more. How do I adjust times, etc, when going to Jobo and should I expect more grain? Should I do color only with Jobo?
 
Since I have already fine tuned my film/developer combinations, it looks like they are suggesting reducing these times by fifteen percent when using a rotary processor. I would rather use my times rather than the ones from the charts. That sounds reasonable. Thanks for the links.
 
@bwcolor, I agree. I find there's a lot of chemical voodoo when developing film and times are one more variable. I'll be nterested in seeing the results when "you have got it down"
 
I develop the same film and same developer with different times regularly. Additionally dilutions also are a variable... it's definitely "voodoo" but it's fun seeing what you get by changing the variables. Personally I'd try experimenting with the jobo for bw just to know what I could do with it
 
I've been using a Uniroller, which provides constant agitation. The manual said (and so does Digital Truth) to reduce times by 15%. I did this as a base and adjusted from there. If you are using a C-41 kit, the kit instructions should have rotary times and temps listed. I use the Unicolor kit and it had different temps and times for rotary processing than for hand processing by tank.
 
I use Xtol 1:3. Most times are geared for condensor enlargers. I scan my negatives. I therefore reduce those times. Try 10% for starters. My times ended up closer to a 20% reduction from Kodak's rotary times. The good news: It works.
 
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