How to use a flash on an M2?

[MCTuomey]

good stuff, drew. recently i started popping a pocket wizard on my camera and sticking a viv 285HV up in a corner, bounced (pointing straight up) on 1/16 power, gelled for tungsten. otherwise i put my flash on a coil cord, handheld at arm's length up or camera left.

flash on same axis as lens = flaaaattttt light

 

[Paul C. Perkins MD]

Al Kaplan,

Who annointed you the new (all seeing / all knowing) Karnak the Magnificent?

You don't have to address me, or anyone else for that matter, unless it can be done with a modicum of civility.

Paul

 

[JNewell]

dumbass

a modicum of civility.

😕

 

[JNewell]

For those who think of flat, front (over) lit pictures when they hear the words "flash photography", consider these ideas: first, move the flash off the camera. Try bouncing the light off a ceiling, wall, or other light-colored object.

All good ideas - sometimes hard to implement and sometimes not. I have done them all...there are limitations to everything (including not using flash). Bounce flash, which is a huge improvement, often creates unnatural shadows...getting the flash off the camera means brackets that change the camera handling a lot or holding it in one hand and the camera in the other...this sounds like I am disagreeing, though that is not my intent! - you do what you need to when you want the pic. The world is not perfect.

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

If the Vivitar flash follows their usual practice then there will be a small hole about 3mm dia. on the other side of the hotshoe (opposite a red button for open flash). A lead fits this hole with a 3mm co-axial plug on the other end about 11 or 12" long. Then the 3mm co-axial goes into the Leitz adapter, which goes into the back of the M2.

The flash will/might have a switch showing red, blue and "M" and a slider to give a film speed and aperture linked by a red or blue line. So select the film speed, set the switch, set the aperture and away you go.

I know this the hard way as I recently bought the contents of a small studio and spent a lot of time trying to get one to work before throwing it away. Luckily I kept the lead, otherwise I'd not be able to answer in such detail.

Would you like a photo of the lead, adapter and a similar Vivitar flash? Or would you just like the lead? As far as I can see/guess, plugging in the lead disables the hotshoe contact but that is just a guess based on the plug shape and position.

Regards, David

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

If you have a photo of the setup handy, sure, by all means post it! I have a little music studio here and about a zillion random connectors and cables, so I could probably solder up my own custom cable using an adapter.

 

[Nokton48]

Here's my M2 Flash Rig; Stroboframe Bracket (flips for verticals), Vivitar 283 Flash w/Holly Flashfoot One and Photoflex XTC Diffuser, Paramount 1' Cord, Leica M2 Flash Adapter Plug, and M2 w/TomA Rapidwinder. Great rig that creates georgeous flash lighting, very soft when close-up, very spontaneous and intuitive to use, fully automatic with all M2 lenses:

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

I'll do a picture tomorrow showing it as bits and pieces and then as everything together on the M2. The 3mm jack plug looks odd to me but might just be a standard off the shelf part, btw.

Regards, David

 

[drewbarb]

The sync plug that fits Vivitar flashes like the 283 and the 285 is not just a regular 1/8th" audio jack- it's a strange little proprietary jack. Yes, some other similar plugs might make the connection work sometimes, but they won't fit as well, and will make the flash sync even more unreliable. In any case, I don't think the 550 had a port for a sync cord. If I'm right, the only sync connection it has is the hotshoe mount, which means you'll need a female-hotshoe-to-cord adapter of some sort.

As for how the thyristor technology works, which hasn't really been covered here: the flash unit puts out light, which is reflected off the subject and comes back into the sensor. When the thryistor detects enough light coming back into the sensor to provide correct exposure at the aperture/ISO speed setting the unit is set for, it quenches the flash output. This all happens literally at the speed of light, in real time during the exposure. Provided that the sensor isn't blocked, and can see light reflected off the subject, it is surprisingly accurate.

 

[Al Kaplan]

If you are discarding a dead 283 it's not just the cord that you should save! Also hang on to that slide-in battery holder, take off the foot for the hot shoe, and save the screws too, and then pull the sensor off the front. It's designed to pull out, so you can substitute the manual thingy. The sensors occasionally cease to work. Those feet break and they aren't cheap! You can buy metal ones, but they're even less cheap.

If your sensor goes bad you'll have a spare. The battery tray can be preloaded with fresh batteries. Keep it in a small zip-lock. Great for fast changes!

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

There's a poor picture of the plug here

http://idrh.smugmug.com/photos/418935280_Yrp7A-L.jpg

Ignoring the black plastic it's about 3mm dia and about 8mm long. As I said I'll happily put my spare in the post to you, just ask.

Regards, David