HP%+ 400 shot at 100...

[Muggins]

I know, I'm a wally. Forgot what was in which camera (and, to be honest, it's been in the fridge long enough I've even forgotten which camera it was!).

So... I'm using Microphen, as it's what I've got. 100 is off the recommendations on the box (just a blank given for developing at 250), and also off the Giant Development Chart. I reckon I either treat as 400, and hope it is scan/printable, or knock some time off given for 400. It's four minutes shorter between 3200 and 1600, three between 1600 and 800, and 1 1/2 between 800 and 400. Assuming that the decrease is still still be roughly linear between 400 and 100, I suspect another 90 seconds knocked off might be my best bet - though I can plot on graph paper and check.

Sound feasible? Or does anyone have any better ideas?

Thanks,

Adrian

 

[sepiareverb]

Perceptol is a better choice if you can get some. I use it for extreme contrast reduction with HP5 and shoot it at 50. Perceptol 1:1, 9 1/2 minutes at 20°C works for me, but that is tailored for printing- to scan you might want to go 8 1/2??

 

[Muggins]

Thanks - given that it's something you've done, that sounds like ideal advice. I'm in the UK so getting hold of some shouldn't be a problem, though if I need to buy it I might do my other films now in Microphen (someone keeps giving me the stuff, which is nice of them, hence why it was my initial choice), and then do the next batch in Perceptol once it arrives.

Adrian

 

[Roger Hicks]

Two stops over isn't a disaster for wet printing, though some scanners hay have difficulty in seeing through the highlights. Sepiareverb's advice for Perceptol (true ISO 250 at most) should give even better pics.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Bob Michaels]

Remember that Ilford made a disposable camera for many years loaded with HP5+. The shutter was around 1/100th and the aperture was f 11 1/2. That equates to an e.i. of less than 100 in the sun. That camera yielded good b&w photos with no special processing.

In other words, it will be difficult to screw things up, even exposing at e.e. 100 and normal processing. No real problems dealing with a neg that is 2 stops over.

 

[mtargz]

How about a shot with a traditionally speed-losing developer? A bath in diluted Rodinal might just be the ticket - dilute it enough so that even with under-developing, it'll be enough time to ensure even development.

 

[KenR]

Mix up some divided D76 - no speed change and won't blow out the negs with overexposure. I used it for Tmy2 rated at 100 recently in a Widelux F7 (1/250th at f11 in full sun) with some nice results - other than the banding issue with the camera.

 

[Muggins]

Thanks for all the suggestions - the plan is to go with the Perceptol, and do a batch of films with it (though I might check what likes it first - I've just discovered that my one roll of Efke 100 127 will need EIGHTEEN minutes at 1:3!), and get a little bottle of Rodinal while I'm shopping. I'm a developing tyro, but I have to try 1890s developer with some 1890s size 120 from a 1911 camera at some point this year...

Adrian
(Roger - thinking back, this MIGHT be a roll from my Werra 3, nudge nudge)