kb244
Well-known
Having found a recipe on FilmDev.Org that used Microphen I decided to try the 1:3 dilution for 12 minutes at 68F (constant agitation first minute, one inversion every minute after) since I liked the sample results shown.
The upside is I like the overall look of the film with this recipe.
The downside is that it seems to have come pre-scratched (and it seems to be on the plastic backing side, and not the emulsion side). Seems to be a quality control issue with Fomapan 200 (the film that's rebranded as Arista EDU Ultra 200). It's not the bulk loader because I use an Alden 74 which has no felt and would only scratch the leader/tail when you close the trap door, and the cartridge is brand new (and I just double checked the felt on it), and the camera hasn't given any other rolls any problems. I already emailed B&H about it.
Probably going to try to snip off a little length and develop it directly to see if the possible scratching is straight off the roll or if it was possibly introduced at any of the steps of development But this is the first I seen of non-linear scratching (showing up as black lines) doesn't seem to be from something like felt scrub/etc.
I could normally heal/clone them out, but I intend on wet printing these with an enlarger.
In the meantime the two 36ct Kentmere rolls I ordered with it (100 and 400) was shipped separately and incorrectly sorted by UPS and made it to Florida before they caught the mistake and redirected it back to Michigan, so will have to wait to try those out.
Here are some scans.
The upside is I like the overall look of the film with this recipe.
The downside is that it seems to have come pre-scratched (and it seems to be on the plastic backing side, and not the emulsion side). Seems to be a quality control issue with Fomapan 200 (the film that's rebranded as Arista EDU Ultra 200). It's not the bulk loader because I use an Alden 74 which has no felt and would only scratch the leader/tail when you close the trap door, and the cartridge is brand new (and I just double checked the felt on it), and the camera hasn't given any other rolls any problems. I already emailed B&H about it.
Probably going to try to snip off a little length and develop it directly to see if the possible scratching is straight off the roll or if it was possibly introduced at any of the steps of development But this is the first I seen of non-linear scratching (showing up as black lines) doesn't seem to be from something like felt scrub/etc.
I could normally heal/clone them out, but I intend on wet printing these with an enlarger.
In the meantime the two 36ct Kentmere rolls I ordered with it (100 and 400) was shipped separately and incorrectly sorted by UPS and made it to Florida before they caught the mistake and redirected it back to Michigan, so will have to wait to try those out.
Here are some scans.
Ronald M
Veteran
Pull off the partial film to be developed at a tangent or you will make scratches even if the cassette is good.
presspass
filmshooter
I've never used Foma in bulk rolls but have shot a fair amount from their cassettes. The film can be soft, so using a chamois or a film wipe before hanging it can cause scratches. The 200 has never been a problem, but I did have issues with the 400. Ronald's suggestion is a good one for sorting out the issue. Please let us know how you resolve this.
MIkhail
-
I agree on film wipes - one should never use them, my opinion.
I tried this Foma/Arista way back, in 2007 or so. Also had scratches.
It is a cheap film, and acts like one....
That being said, the second portrait is excellent- large grain plays into the character here.
It will not be suitable for every occasion, but then, what is? Only TriX-400
I tried this Foma/Arista way back, in 2007 or so. Also had scratches.
It is a cheap film, and acts like one....
That being said, the second portrait is excellent- large grain plays into the character here.
It will not be suitable for every occasion, but then, what is? Only TriX-400
davidnewtonguitars
Family Snaps
Thanks for the samples!
I have shot several rolls of Arista 200, and I can't say that it results in anything that makes it distinctive, or that I like it, and I still have 2 rolls left.
It reminds me of TriX somehow.
I'm going to start on several rolls of Ilford FP4, I hope that it will give me what I want, which is some sort of "creamy-ness".
I'm stand dev. in Rodinal 1:100
I have shot several rolls of Arista 200, and I can't say that it results in anything that makes it distinctive, or that I like it, and I still have 2 rolls left.
It reminds me of TriX somehow.
I'm going to start on several rolls of Ilford FP4, I hope that it will give me what I want, which is some sort of "creamy-ness".
I'm stand dev. in Rodinal 1:100
kb244
Well-known
I didn't wipe the film for that reason. Everyone else squeegee but I don't. And that would be linear not the black lines like shown in the third and fourth picture.
MIkhail
-
Sometimes you may want to check a pressure plate of your camera for cleanliness and absence of burrs, etc.
Cleaning it can't hurt.
Cleaning it can't hurt.
kb244
Well-known
I checked that before putting a different (expired) bulk rolled film into the camera, flat/clean. And it would normally be a linear drag scratch if it was the cartridge felt (brand new, and checked after), plate (checked after), bulk roller (no felt, Alden 74 with a trap door, so scratch-free). And I just let it drip after the wash with photoflo I didn't squeegee it like most the other students do since I figured it wasn't a hardened film.
Not my first bulk roll, used to shoot a fair bit back in 2005-2010, getting back into it. The lines almost reminds me of what happens when you rub a little grit around a sheet of Kodalith 4x5 in a sheet holder that hasn't been sufficiently cleaned out, i.e.: non-linear but more of jagged in place. But that was usually on the emulsion, not showing up in the plastic backing.
traveler_101
American abroad
Having found a recipe on FilmDev.Org that used Microphen I decided to try the 1:3 dilution for 12 minutes at 68F (constant agitation first minute, one inversion every minute after) since I liked the sample results shown.
The upside is I like the overall look of the film with this recipe.
The downside is that it seems to have come pre-scratched (and it seems to be on the plastic backing side, and not the emulsion side). . . .
Here are some scans.
+ 1 I like what you did with this film.
Scratches I find only in numbers 3 and 4.
benlees
Well-known
I had good luck with Fomapan 100. Amazing with Rodinal.
The 200 and 400, however, were less than stellar. Scratches, emulsion seemed inconsistent, and so curly!! Ilford cost more but with zero aggravation, it is totally worth it.
The 200 and 400, however, were less than stellar. Scratches, emulsion seemed inconsistent, and so curly!! Ilford cost more but with zero aggravation, it is totally worth it.
Uncle Bill
Well-known
I had that same problem with a recent batch of Fomapan 200 and soured me on Bulk rolled Foma film.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I've had some inconsistencies with Foma films: pinholes in the emulsion, and slurred emulsions. But in general they don't hate the film like I did at first before I finalized my development and exposure technique (with Foma). I use HC-110h and do not get excessive grain.