HP5+ exposed at iso 125

[davidnewtonguitars]

Recommend a strategy, please.
Obviously by mistake, my son who won't settle on 1 film, left his meter set at iso 125 after shooting a roll of FP4+, then switching to HP5+
I have D76 and Rodinal.
Would a 1:100, 30 minute stand in Rodinal be a logical try?

 

[PKR]

Recommend a strategy, please.
Obviously by mistake, my son who won't settle on 1 film, left his meter set at iso 125 after shooting a roll of FP4+, then switching to HP5+
I have D76 and Rodinal.
Would a 1:100, 30 minute stand in Rodinal be a logical try?

Any pull in development time would depend on the lighting the film was exposed to. I commonly vary development times by 25-50% for expansion or contraction. Expose for shadows, develop for highlights in simple terms. Figure out the lighting for the majority of exposures and go from there.

You might have a look at some Zone System literature for a reference. I don't think it's a big deal. Most exposures are likely to survive the "close to one and a half stop" over exposure. I normally rate Tri-X at ISO 200 if that's any comfort. I use HP5 quite often. If it were me, I might cut the time by 30-50% with D76 1:1. But, that's me.. not you!

Check with Chris Crawford. He may have a better solution for you.

Are you printing these or scanning? I have better luck with a thin-ish HP5 neg when scanning. But again, that's me.

 

[ellisson]

Massive development chart has HP5@200 in D76 1+2 at 12.5 min and in D76 1+3 at 14 min at 20deg C. You are not too far off. I'd cut the time 30%, depending on the contrast under which the role was shot. If low/normal contrast shooting, I'd consider using the times as listed in the chart for ISO 200.

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

THANKS! Plus 10 more characters for more thanks.

 

[Steve M.]

What ellison said. HP5 is grainer than Tri-X, at least in my hands, and Rodinal, well.......I DO love it's grain. But along w/ the overexposed HP5, let's just say that Rodinal would not be my first choice of developers. Depends on the shot. Maybe you like a fair amount of grain. 30% sounds in the ballpark, and be gentle when you agitate.

 

[PKR]

THANKS! Plus 10 more characters for more thanks.

You haven't said anything about the lighting conditions. People are giving advice without even knowing if the film was exposed outdoors? Sun or overcast? Indoors with flash?

 

[Rob-F]

I guess one thing in favor of Rodinal is that it is a speed losing developer. So the native speed of HP5 should be less than box speed: I don't know how much--maybe EI 320 or 250? So I would think that reducing the developing time as suggested above ought to work out pretty well. As to grain, yeah, Rodinal is grainy; but reducing the development ought to reduce the graininess somewhat.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Here's my recommendation: If you shot it under low contrast light (overcast, cloudy, fog, etc.) then just develop it normal. It'll be overexposed but not so much that you cannot still get a good print or scan from the film.

If you shot under contrasty light, like a sunny day, then use your normal developer and dilution (eg. D-76 1+1 or Rodinal 1+50) and develop for 30% less than normal (multiply normal dev. time by .7 to get the new time). That's reduce the high contrast such light gives and keep the highlights from blocking up. Reduced dev. time to control contrast requires an extra stop of exposure to keep the shadows from ending up too thin from the lower develop time, so your negs will be nearly perfect.

 

[Ronald M]

Get another roll. shoot 6 frames and have son develop regular time less 40%.
adjust from there.

After he does all the work, he will take your advice.

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

Thanks again.
Since my son is the shooter, and as a college student we only cross paths in twilight moments between when I go to bed and he begins to do his projects, we have not discussed the conditions as he was shooting this roll. I will do so before I make the decision as to how I develop it, but I think is was a clear day with full sunlight.
Second, as I am experienced with about 25 rolls of film developed I am just bouncing my thinking about this error and how to proceed with you of more experience.
I recall reading about Rodinal being a speed reducing dev, so thanks for bringing that to mind.
I understand about 400 speed B&W film having a wide dynamic range, but pulling it 275 iso points seems a bit much.
It helps me to look into your collective head.

 

[PKR]

Thanks again.
Since my son is the shooter, and as a college student we only cross paths in twilight moments between when I go to bed and he begins to do his projects, we have not discussed the conditions as he was shooting this roll. I will do so before I make the decision as to how I develop it, but I think is was a clear day with full sunlight.
Second, as I am experienced with about 25 rolls of film developed I am just bouncing my thinking about this error and how to proceed with you of more experience.
I recall reading about Rodinal being a speed reducing dev, so thanks for bringing that to mind.
I understand about 400 speed B&W film having a wide dynamic range, but pulling it 275 iso points seems a bit much.
It helps me to look into your collective head.

Hi David;

I'll share a bit of my experience with you. I've worked as a pro for many years. I also take pictures for myself.. mostly on film. Years ago, when I was a kid, a really good photographer (Paul Fusco) looked at my work and gave me a bunch of advice. I followed it all. He was spot on with all of it. Among the non business things we talked about.. He asked me what film I used. I rattled off a couple of color and black and white types. He then asked about developers. Paul is many years senior to me and was light years senior in photo experience. He said, pick one film (b&w) and one developer and know it backwards and forwards. Then, concentrate on your imagery.. the film and processing should be wrote. I followed his suggestion of Plus-X and D76. I occasionally used Tri-X indoors, when in available light. But it was rare.

With the loss of Plus-X, I moved to Fuji Neopan Acros. I use this most of the time (I'm not suggesting you use this). Fuji has been discontinuing many of it's film stocks. So, I began experimenting with FP-4. If I was sure Acros would be around, I wouldn't be playing with FP-4. I figure FP-4 will be around for some time.

To me, darkroom work is like washing dishes. Necessary, but not fun. The only reason I process my own film is, I don't trust it to any lab. I used a couple of labs over the years, when I was too busy to do the processing, with disastrous results.

At some point, if you're serious about imagery, you might consider picking one film and one developer for most all of your work .. just passed along from Paul.

https://www.magnumphotos.com/photographer/paul-fusco/

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

I myself mainly shoot only one film: FP4, and process with only D76. I am trying to achieve a creamy smoothness and great tonal range in my pictures.

The son is the one who won't be limited to one film. It is "film of the week" with him. If he robs the film pile of my FP4, well I'm left with something else.

As the processor, I get to deal with what he throws at me.
Rather than a problem, I find it stimulating. There isn't anything important about photography, to me it is a hobby.

Hi David;

I'll share a bit of my experience with you. I've worked as a pro for many years. I also take pictures for myself.. mostly on film. Years ago, when I was a kid, a really good photographer (Paul Fusco) looked at my work and gave me a bunch of advice. I followed it all. He was spot on with all of it. Among the non business things we talked about.. He asked me what film I used. I rattled off a couple of color and black and white types. He then asked about developers. Paul is many years senior to me and was light years senior in photo experience. He said, pick one film (b&w) and one developer and know it backwards and forwards. Then, concentrate on your imagery.. the film and processing should be wrote. I followed his suggestion of Plus-X and D76. I occasionally used Tri-X indoors, when in available light. But it was rare.

With the loss of Plus-X, I moved to Fuji Neopan Acros. I use this most of the time (I'm not suggesting you use this). Fuji has been discontinuing many of it's film stocks. So, I began experimenting with FP-4. If I was sure Acros would be around, I wouldn't be playing with FP-4. I figure FP-4 will be around for some time.

To me, darkroom work is like washing dishes. Necessary, but not fun. The only reason I process my own film is, I don't trust it to any lab. I used a couple of labs over the years, when I was too busy to do the processing, with disastrous results.

At some point, if you're serious about imagery, you might consider picking one film and one developer for most all of your work .. just passed along from Paul.

https://www.magnumphotos.com/photographer/paul-fusco/

 

[Tom R]

Hi David;

I'll share a bit of my experience with you. I've worked as a pro for many years. I also take pictures for myself.. mostly on film. Years ago, when I was a kid, a really good photographer (Paul Fusco) looked at my work and gave me a bunch of advice. I followed it all. He was spot on with all of it. Among the non business things we talked about.. He asked me what film I used. I rattled off a couple of color and black and white types. He then asked about developers. Paul is many years senior to me and was light years senior in photo experience. He said, pick one film (b&w) and one developer and know it backwards and forwards. Then, concentrate on your imagery.. the film and processing should be wrote. I followed his suggestion of Plus-X and D76. I occasionally used Tri-X indoors, when in available light. But it was rare.

With the loss of Plus-X, I moved to Fuji Neopan Acros. I use this most of the time (I'm not suggesting you use this). Fuji has been discontinuing many of it's film stocks. So, I began experimenting with FP-4. If I was sure Acros would be around, I wouldn't be playing with FP-4. I figure FP-4 will be around for some time.

To me, darkroom work is like washing dishes. Necessary, but not fun. The only reason I process my own film is, I don't trust it to any lab. I used a couple of labs over the years, when I was too busy to do the processing, with disastrous results.

At some point, if you're serious about imagery, you might consider picking one film and one developer for most all of your work .. just passed along from Paul.

https://www.magnumphotos.com/photographer/paul-fusco/

Excellent advice! Streamline your workflow so that you have time to make pictures!

TR

 

[PKR]

Excellent advice! Streamline your workflow so that you have time to make pictures!

TR

It's one of the things I like about using film. With digital I have two different camera brands/sensors that are quite different. It's a burden keeping track of the differences when working quickly. Also, the menus are completely different. I don't easily adopt a new camera, having to commit to memory all the new "stuff" that comes with new gear.

It's different when you really have to know a camera and it's lenses. It's not fun, it's work.

Keep things as simple as possible Tom. Make good pictures.

Best, pkr

 

[ellisson]

Thanks again.
Since my son is the shooter, and as a college student we only cross paths in twilight moments between when I go to bed and he begins to do his projects, we have not discussed the conditions as he was shooting this roll. I will do so before I make the decision as to how I develop it, but I think is was a clear day with full sunlight.
Second, as I am experienced with about 25 rolls of film developed I am just bouncing my thinking about this error and how to proceed with you of more experience.
I recall reading about Rodinal being a speed reducing dev, so thanks for bringing that to mind.
I understand about 400 speed B&W film having a wide dynamic range, but pulling it 275 iso points seems a bit much.
It helps me to look into your collective head.

David, HP5+ has been pulled to ISO 50 with good results. I've not done it personally, but Marquardt and Andreae have shared their experience with extreme pulling of HP5+ in their book "The Film Photography Handbook", Rockynook, 2016. You should get decent results at ISO 125 with the advice given here.

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

Thanks ellisson.
I have taken note of the good advice about times and dilutions given here and will move forward with great confidence.
Because my son values weird picture outcomes, both actively attempted and accidentally arrived at, he is sure to be pleased.

David, HP5+ has been pulled to ISO 50 with good results. I've not done it personally, but Marquardt and Andreae have shared their experience with extreme pulling of HP5+ in their book "The Film Photography Handbook", Rockynook, 2016. You should get decent results at ISO 125 with the advice given here.