Jake Mongey
Well-known
Hey,
upon shooting a roll of hp5 today i realized that i had the exposure comp at +3 stops so just checking with you guys what times I should use.
I plan to use percepetol (stock) and pull only 2 stops in order to keep the density manageable as possible and retain some contrast. Does anyone have any times for this?
Of course if anyone else has any better ideas with different methods or developers feel free to let me know. My developers I have are Microphen, Percepetol, Rodinol and Ilfosol3
upon shooting a roll of hp5 today i realized that i had the exposure comp at +3 stops so just checking with you guys what times I should use.
I plan to use percepetol (stock) and pull only 2 stops in order to keep the density manageable as possible and retain some contrast. Does anyone have any times for this?
Of course if anyone else has any better ideas with different methods or developers feel free to let me know. My developers I have are Microphen, Percepetol, Rodinol and Ilfosol3
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Perceptol 1:1 for 12.5 minutes, with 2 inversions of the tank every minute is my standard. I used this combo for an extreme contrast situation, inside a windowless old grain elevator with bare light bulbs in the frame. Kept the light bulbs shape and managed to get detail in the wood walls even in wide views. I bracketed a bunch, as I went into it knowing I was going to do such an extreme pull. I have since used this time when I've made the same mistake as you, perhaps 11 minutes and more standard agitation would be good if you aren't needing to control high contrast.
Jake Mongey
Well-known
Thank you! i shall give it a try!
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Here are some quick scans of a couple of those off the proofsheets:
They are still challenging to print, but very possible.
They are still challenging to print, but very possible.
rodt16s
Well-known
Might be worth including the temperature you use
Steve M.
Veteran
Normally it's 68 degrees. That's a grainy film even when shot at box speed (compared to say Tri-X) so I am sure you are going to get some blocked up shadows and more grain no matter what you do, but you should still get uesable negs.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Right! 68F, 20C.
Moron at work.
HP5+ is the most malleable film I've ever shot. Very responsive to changes in developer/development and able to deliver extremely good negs over a wide range of ISOs, and usable negs over a wider range than anything else I suspect. The key to HP5 is tailoring ISO to the scene and development to the exposure. As 120, HP5 shot at 800 and run in Rodinal 1:25 for 10 minutes (@68
)gives some extremely smooth tonality. It only needs to be grainy if you want it to be.Roger Hicks
Veteran
Dear Steve,
Hardly, with 3 stops overexposure. There will be PLENTY of shadow detail. You may have been thinking backwards: blown highlights, though even with normal development, that's unlikely to be a risk if you're printing optically or using a decent scanner.
Cheers,
R.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Dear Jake,
You merely overexposed it a bit. Perceptol should give a true ISO of 200 or so, which means that EI 50 is 2 stops over: WELL within the latitude of HP5+.
Quite honestly I wouldn't cut development at all -- you'll lose too much contrast -- but if you insist, cut development time 10-15% AT MOST.
This advice is based on 50 years' experience plus extensive talks with friends at Ilford. Of course the subject matter makes a difference. What was it?
Cheers,
R.
Jake Mongey
Well-known
Faintandfuzzy
Well-known
Heres my results, Unedited and somehow incredibly dusty despite nothing showing on the neg, I think it must be my scanner glass:
I love the way they turned out!
romosoho
Newbie
although to be honest less shadow detail that I would have expected for such exposure. some are pretty contrasty scenes. spot, center weighted or matrix metered? And are these pretty straight off the scanner or did you already tweak the contrast?