peterm1
Veteran
Hi Raid
I find that the green dot in the finder (which lights once correct focus is found) is pretty accurate in most circumstances. I find it better than an EVF in a mirrorless camera accompanied by focus peaking. Focus peaking assists in finding the approximate focus point but I find that if I then enlarge the image in the finder to check focus almost invariably it is never completely correct or exactly where I want it to be.
The green dot in Nikons seems more accurate than the above (and it should be as I understand it given it uses the same technology as the AF system which usually results in accurate focus. To use this by the way set your focus point in the camera to the central single focus point not multi focus (there is a switch to the right of the rear LCD to do this). Of course you need to set the central focus point over the main subject to get proper focus confirmation. If you also set the camera's focus method to single not continuous focus (yet another option you need to master) and you can then recompose if you need to without having to do anything additional.
But even then some people who are experienced in focusing DSLRs of the mirrored type argue that you should just use the viewfinder to focus as you might an old MF film camera. The recommended procedure is to turn the focus ring to the point where you roll past maximum sharpness as perceived by you when looking through the viewfinder. Then roll back slightly to achieve correct focus. Then glance at the green dot to confirm that you have hit correct focus according to the camera. Some say this is the fastest way to focus. The green dot is perfectly visible at the bottom of the finder so this just involves looking down slightly. BTW fortunately the D700 has a good and effective diopter correction dial located beside the viewfinder to optimize vision correction for your eyes. I should mention that of course being an optical finder you cannot enlarge the image as you can with a mirrorless camera. You can also use the rear LCD to compose and focus by selecting "Live View". You had best consult the D700 user manual to find out about Live View but I should say I do not use it much unless the camera is on a tripod as a large camera like the D700 is hard to handle when using the rear screen to focus etc. Also being a mirrored camera the mirror has to flip up out of the way and stay up to use Live View and I find this process a little clunky to use - useful only when being very slow and deliberate and using a tripod as I mentioned. The user manual is available for download in PDF form so this will help on these finer points.
As to being confusing I understand what you mean. Whenever I buy a new a different camera I get confused - there are so many features and so many new things to learn (and also often, new terminology to learn for old things plus new ways of laying out options in menus which are always different when going from one system to another). But I find that once I am out in the field and start experimenting and using the new camera I begin to learn quickly. I also find that I will often not use perhaps 50% - 60% of the features of a camera - I usually stick to a simple method of shooting for most subjects - using a single central focus point, single shot not continuous, centre weighted metering (occasionally matrix), Auto white balance (mostly works well), RAW image files for maximum ability to capture dynamic range and Aperture or sometimes Program mode to maximize my control. That's all you really need to start with at least and maybe like me will be all you find you ever need. BTW in relation to dynamic range etc. BTW I should mention that if you use program mode Nikon allows you to dynamically vary the aperture / shutter speed balance from the one selected by the camera by rolling one of the control wheels. This is very useful if you find that for example the program has chosen an aperture that is not ideal for a specific image as you have envisioned it. I like this feature as it allows the ease and speed of using Program mode combined with the control given by using Aperture mode.
I find the D700 can be shot up to 3200 without too much image noise but prefer to keep it at or below 1600 for even less noise though what little noise there is can usually be dealt with easily in Post Processing. And I should mention that I like to set the ISO to Auto - with a range between 200 ISO and 1600 ISO. This makes day to day shooting easy as the camera balances all the parameters pretty effectively. If you are always shooting in the sun you may wish to set the upper limit for ISO something lower if you choose to use Auto like I do.
I suggest you start with the lenses you have. Given your love of lenses I suspect that given a little time you will find yourself being curious about what other new lenses can do - just like I do. But there is absolutely no reason to rush - Nikkors are available in large numbers so can always be found usually at reasonable prices.
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
Raid, I've always preferred the 180 2.8 to the 80-200......
shawn
Veteran
If you are shooting raw crank up the sharpness on the picture mode you have selected and skip focus peaking all together. You will get a subtle moire kind of shimmering at the actual focus point that is more exact than focus peaking IME. This will depend somewhat on the manufacturer though.
Shawn
raid
Dad Photographer
WOW. I need to digest all this useful information here!
Thanks to you.
Peter: Thank you very much for the detailed tips and opinions and views.
"I suggest you start with the lenses you have. Given your love of lenses I suspect that given a little time you will find yourself being curious about what other new lenses can do - just like I do. But there is absolutely no reason to rush - Nikkors are available in large numbers so can always be found usually at reasonable prices."
I will do this most likely. Wait and take my time.
I am now going again over what you have posted to help me out.
Thanks to you.
Peter: Thank you very much for the detailed tips and opinions and views.
"I suggest you start with the lenses you have. Given your love of lenses I suspect that given a little time you will find yourself being curious about what other new lenses can do - just like I do. But there is absolutely no reason to rush - Nikkors are available in large numbers so can always be found usually at reasonable prices."
I will do this most likely. Wait and take my time.
I am now going again over what you have posted to help me out.
raid
Dad Photographer
I have seen rave reports for both lenses. The 80-200 would be more useful for travel than a fixed 180, but I can see the charm of using the 180 locally.
raid
Dad Photographer
This is a useful tip, Shawn. Thank you.
peterm1
Veteran
Hope it helps Raid. Let me know if you need more, cheers Peter
peterm1
Veteran
BTW I was just reminded of this site which gives a short review on a large range of Nikon glass both MF and AF. As always its the writer's opinion but I have found its not a bad guide. Raid you may like to consider what it has to say when the time does come to think about getting more Nikon glass.
http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html
http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html
kiemchacsu
Well-known
Reading this thread, I realized that on this forum, Nikon is the only topic besides Leica that can attract huge attentions.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Alpsman
Well-known
immortal D700
immortal D700
The D700 is a sturdy beast. Use mine since about 10 years, will have a few dents and sunburn spots above the mirror but works as on its first day.
I use only Ai / AiS lenses because I just have no AF-lenses.
immortal D700
The D700 is a sturdy beast. Use mine since about 10 years, will have a few dents and sunburn spots above the mirror but works as on its first day.
I use only Ai / AiS lenses because I just have no AF-lenses.
NickTrop
Veteran
This is because Nikon is a high quality volume producer. Can't (or won't) pay Leica prices? Nikon. Nikon has produced high-quality glass for decades and because of (until recently with their "Z" mount) their comittment to backwards compatibility, very high-quality lenses can be purchased for incredible value on the used market. This is why I will always be a Nikon F-mount shooter. The most I've paid for a Nikon lens (around $350, iirc) is for their fabulous 85/1.8 G short-tele. 1/2 the F-mount glass I own (Nikkor and 3rd-party) was less than $100, a few less than $50. Three were around $30. I also recently scored an excellent 70-210 4-5.6 AF-D for $35. An excellent 50/1.4 that imo comes close to Leica in IQ can be purchased al day long for under $200. AND it autofocuses. Sorry. I've given up on manual focus. They're archaic and they DO affect IQ because it's "one less thing to worry about", focus is a photographc "chore". and in all but the crappiest of lighting is much quicker than manual lens futzing that causes you to miss shots. (That said, I do own 4 manual focus lenses.) Back to my $35 70-210 -- the build quality is superlative, the AF speed is excellent and accurate. No issues with image quality, especially for a zoom. The only reason it's $35 is because Nikon cranked out 100's of thousands of them for a decade or so. If this was a "Leica" with only 10,000 pieces produced? Same specs, same everything? Of coursre that would never happen since, as far as I know, Leica does not make zooms, doesn't do auto-focus, and is not a volume producer in the way Nikon is. (I await those pointing out "corrections" to the above statement...)
In short, because of this, lots of people own Nikon equipment. Nikon is a high quality volume producer. In addion to this, they have offerings in every focal lengh, speed, af, mf, macro, prime and zoom imaginable and scores of ultra cheap perfectly fine 3rd party options for decades. F-mount might not play nice with adapters? Who cares when there's an ocean of high-quality lenses available in native f-mount so inexpensively?
So the abundance of "Nikon talk" doesn't surprise me.
peterm1
Veteran
I suppose one good thing about Nikon's mirrorless cameras is that if they really take off and eventually replace its F mount line there will be even more lovely old F mount lenses available more cheaply (for us folks who do still use MF though like you Nick I often revert to AF when I really need to nail shots. Though of course all of these can be adapted to Nikon Z cameras many wont bother.
BTW Nick, While speaking of adapted lenses, I recently realized that old DKL mount lenses (from the Retina Reflex line etc) are able to be adapted to Nikon F mount bodies. The Retina camera bodies and other dkl mount cameras were amongst the few with deeper register than Nikon. I bought a 135mm f4 Retina Reflex Tele Xenar lens primarily to use on mirrorless cameras but instead of mounting it directly I bought a DKL to Nikon adapter which allows it to be used on my D700 or when both are mated with a further Nikon to NEX adapter can be used on that system. Good results too - just for fun.
Nyc Dito
Established
Great camera. I owned two at one point and neither ever skipped a beat. I did weddings and it nailed focus 99% of the time in really low light. So much so, I never bothered to buy a newer model(s).
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
When I first got mine I used it for shooting gallery openings in very low light mainly with a Zeiss 35mm prime. Very easy to manual focus and the image quality at 6400 ISO was excellent. Just a great camera for all purposes.
colker
Well-known
Although their lenses are very good Nikon ergonomics are not the best out there. It´s big, heavy, clunky and when it came to digital, it was bigger, heavier and clunkier
WE didn´t care for 4 decades and shot Nikon as our king. NOw we rediscover the joys of elegant and small . That´s when Leica, Olympus and Fuji grab our attention.
i dropped my pentax spotmatic in favour of a nikkormat because of nikon glass. Was it today may be i wouldn´t
I love my 105/ 2.5 and 60/2.8. Loved my FM2 and FA. Have been working w/ my D700 for many years. D200 and D100 were my main cameras once. So i have to thank Nikon for their gear.
mthomas
Member
----------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Raid,
I don't have any trouble using my 200-600/9.5 AI lens on my D700.
There's another list of incompatible Nikkors that's a bit more qualified than yours: [See "http://nikonlenschart.appspot.com/D700%20Series".]
It specifies that:
"The following accessories and non-CPU lenses can not be used. TC-16AS AF teleconverter, Non AI lenses, Lenses that require the AU-1 focusing unit (400mm f/4.5, 600mm f/5.6、800mm f/8, 1200mm f/11), Fisheye (6mm f/5.6, 7.5mm f/5.6, 8mm f/8, OP10mm f/5.6), 2.1cm f/4, K2 rings, ED180-600mm f/11 (Serial Numbers 174041 - 174180）, ED 360 - 1200mm f/11 (Serial Numbers 174031 - 174127), 200 - 600mm f/9.5 (Serial Numbers 280001 - 300490), Lenses for the F3AF (AF80mm f/2.8, AF ED200mm f/3.5, TC-16S), PC28mm f/4 (Serial Numbers 180900 or earlier), PC35mm f/2.8 (Serial Numbers .851001 - 906200), PC35mm f/2.8 (old type), 1000mm f/6.3 Reflex (old type), 1000mm f/11 Reflex (serial number 142361 - 143000), 2000mm f/11 Reflex (serial number 200111 - 200310)".
Marc
raid
Dad Photographer
I received today a CF card for 64GB, and it seems to work well with the D700. The camera has been set to the basic settings, and I have an old AI'd Nikkor 50/1.4 on the camera. I am ready to go, I think. I am now recharging the battery that came with the camera. Then I will start using the D700 to take some photos with it. Wish me luck.
raid
Dad Photographer
Thank you for the list. Marc! I will review it for sure.
Gerry M
Gerry
Raid, Good luck on the first outing with the D700. Looking forward to your report. Have fun!!
peterm1
Veteran
Raid have fun.
I am sure you will do well with this superb camera. It IS a classic because it just does what it does without fuss or fanfare and does it well. If you are inexperienced in DSLRs, some patience may be required in the beginning. Not that the process is all that different or difficult but as always new cameras have differences that can be frustrating.
Menus for example - though Nikon's is mostly fairly logical the D700 is essentially a pro camera and does have heaps of options to allow you to particularize the camera to your preferences and requirements. This can be confusing if you delve into these too much - I never have. BTW you can select favorite menu options and save them as a personal menu so that your most commonly used menu options can always be found quickly.
My advice on beginning to shoot using MF legacy lenses includes the following:
(1) Set the lens focal length and maximum aperture into the camera using the relevant menu option. This provides useful metadata in you images thought it is not necessary otherwise.
(2) Always shoot raw or raw and jpg (fine) to get the most out of the images you shoot. Nikon NEF files are "deep" and have much more extractable data than jpgs.
(3) When shooting in contrasty conditions I find it beneficial to set my exposure to 1/3 stop under what is recommended by the meter (with any camera) to reduce blown highlights though shooting raw/NEF will mean you can pull a lot of any blown image back
(4) Whether using MF or shooting with an AF lens I always set the camera to Aperture priority (or occasionally program mode), using centre weighted average metering and single shot. That simplifies things a whole lot by approximating film cameras which I grew up with. I will often also set the ISO to auto with a range of 200 to 1600 ISO letting the camera decide which ISO to use within this range in any shot. It is convenient and the image noise is so low anywhere in this range that it does not create those problems in the image (maybe just a touch of noise reduction is needed in post on any images shot using 1600.
(5) Use good MF technique - use the focus ring to roll slightly past the point of max focus then roll back again slightly to the max focus point and look at the green dot in the finder to confirm that the camera also thinks you have hit max focus. I find this quick and works.
(6) One useful option which you may want to use later are "shooting banks". These allow you to have several sets of customized settings for different shooting needs which you can quickly access. (e.g shooting bank (a) can be set up for every day shooting in color, shooting bank (b) can be set up for shooting in monochrome, shooting bank (c) can be set up for shooting at higher ISOs. etc
Happy hunting.
I am sure you will do well with this superb camera. It IS a classic because it just does what it does without fuss or fanfare and does it well. If you are inexperienced in DSLRs, some patience may be required in the beginning. Not that the process is all that different or difficult but as always new cameras have differences that can be frustrating.
Menus for example - though Nikon's is mostly fairly logical the D700 is essentially a pro camera and does have heaps of options to allow you to particularize the camera to your preferences and requirements. This can be confusing if you delve into these too much - I never have. BTW you can select favorite menu options and save them as a personal menu so that your most commonly used menu options can always be found quickly.
My advice on beginning to shoot using MF legacy lenses includes the following:
(1) Set the lens focal length and maximum aperture into the camera using the relevant menu option. This provides useful metadata in you images thought it is not necessary otherwise.
(2) Always shoot raw or raw and jpg (fine) to get the most out of the images you shoot. Nikon NEF files are "deep" and have much more extractable data than jpgs.
(3) When shooting in contrasty conditions I find it beneficial to set my exposure to 1/3 stop under what is recommended by the meter (with any camera) to reduce blown highlights though shooting raw/NEF will mean you can pull a lot of any blown image back
(4) Whether using MF or shooting with an AF lens I always set the camera to Aperture priority (or occasionally program mode), using centre weighted average metering and single shot. That simplifies things a whole lot by approximating film cameras which I grew up with. I will often also set the ISO to auto with a range of 200 to 1600 ISO letting the camera decide which ISO to use within this range in any shot. It is convenient and the image noise is so low anywhere in this range that it does not create those problems in the image (maybe just a touch of noise reduction is needed in post on any images shot using 1600.
(5) Use good MF technique - use the focus ring to roll slightly past the point of max focus then roll back again slightly to the max focus point and look at the green dot in the finder to confirm that the camera also thinks you have hit max focus. I find this quick and works.
(6) One useful option which you may want to use later are "shooting banks". These allow you to have several sets of customized settings for different shooting needs which you can quickly access. (e.g shooting bank (a) can be set up for every day shooting in color, shooting bank (b) can be set up for shooting in monochrome, shooting bank (c) can be set up for shooting at higher ISOs. etc
Happy hunting.