peterm1
Veteran
Hi Peter,
All I need is the green light in the viewer to tell me the focus is OK, or I can estimate the distance anyways. My eyesight is still excellent (somehow!) and I do not have any issues with focusing. I stopped using any flashes once I switched to RF cameras, and now I don't like using any flash anymore. I view images taken with a flash as "artificial" and not naturally lit. I prefer photos taken in open shade. I live in Florida after all. We have over 300 sunny days per year.
The 35-70/2.8 tempts me as a travel lens. Else, I favor prime lenses. Opting for a Nikon camera has opened up a world of lens options, but this is also confusing!
Raid
Hi Raid
I find that the green dot in the finder (which lights once correct focus is found) is pretty accurate in most circumstances. I find it better than an EVF in a mirrorless camera accompanied by focus peaking. Focus peaking assists in finding the approximate focus point but I find that if I then enlarge the image in the finder to check focus almost invariably it is never completely correct or exactly where I want it to be.
The green dot in Nikons seems more accurate than the above (and it should be as I understand it given it uses the same technology as the AF system which usually results in accurate focus. To use this by the way set your focus point in the camera to the central single focus point not multi focus (there is a switch to the right of the rear LCD to do this). Of course you need to set the central focus point over the main subject to get proper focus confirmation. If you also set the camera's focus method to single not continuous focus (yet another option you need to master) and you can then recompose if you need to without having to do anything additional.
But even then some people who are experienced in focusing DSLRs of the mirrored type argue that you should just use the viewfinder to focus as you might an old MF film camera. The recommended procedure is to turn the focus ring to the point where you roll past maximum sharpness as perceived by you when looking through the viewfinder. Then roll back slightly to achieve correct focus. Then glance at the green dot to confirm that you have hit correct focus according to the camera. Some say this is the fastest way to focus. The green dot is perfectly visible at the bottom of the finder so this just involves looking down slightly. BTW fortunately the D700 has a good and effective diopter correction dial located beside the viewfinder to optimize vision correction for your eyes. I should mention that of course being an optical finder you cannot enlarge the image as you can with a mirrorless camera. You can also use the rear LCD to compose and focus by selecting "Live View". You had best consult the D700 user manual to find out about Live View but I should say I do not use it much unless the camera is on a tripod as a large camera like the D700 is hard to handle when using the rear screen to focus etc. Also being a mirrored camera the mirror has to flip up out of the way and stay up to use Live View and I find this process a little clunky to use - useful only when being very slow and deliberate and using a tripod as I mentioned. The user manual is available for download in PDF form so this will help on these finer points.
As to being confusing I understand what you mean. Whenever I buy a new a different camera I get confused - there are so many features and so many new things to learn (and also often, new terminology to learn for old things plus new ways of laying out options in menus which are always different when going from one system to another). But I find that once I am out in the field and start experimenting and using the new camera I begin to learn quickly. I also find that I will often not use perhaps 50% - 60% of the features of a camera - I usually stick to a simple method of shooting for most subjects - using a single central focus point, single shot not continuous, centre weighted metering (occasionally matrix), Auto white balance (mostly works well), RAW image files for maximum ability to capture dynamic range and Aperture or sometimes Program mode to maximize my control. That's all you really need to start with at least and maybe like me will be all you find you ever need. BTW in relation to dynamic range etc. BTW I should mention that if you use program mode Nikon allows you to dynamically vary the aperture / shutter speed balance from the one selected by the camera by rolling one of the control wheels. This is very useful if you find that for example the program has chosen an aperture that is not ideal for a specific image as you have envisioned it. I like this feature as it allows the ease and speed of using Program mode combined with the control given by using Aperture mode.
I find the D700 can be shot up to 3200 without too much image noise but prefer to keep it at or below 1600 for even less noise though what little noise there is can usually be dealt with easily in Post Processing. And I should mention that I like to set the ISO to Auto - with a range between 200 ISO and 1600 ISO. This makes day to day shooting easy as the camera balances all the parameters pretty effectively. If you are always shooting in the sun you may wish to set the upper limit for ISO something lower if you choose to use Auto like I do.
I suggest you start with the lenses you have. Given your love of lenses I suspect that given a little time you will find yourself being curious about what other new lenses can do - just like I do. But there is absolutely no reason to rush - Nikkors are available in large numbers so can always be found usually at reasonable prices.