I lost my passion in DSLRs, looking for alternative.

[Baby of Macon]

A secondhand X Pro 1 is a good bet - with any Fuji lens. Its a bit frustrating compared to an X Pro 1 but it does give the option of an optical viewfinder with no EVF lag. Image quality of the sensor and the Fuji lenses is superb.

 

[f16sunshine]

Really, I had one and it drove me nuts with the 18-55mm lens on it.

The af modes suck but if you use it in mf mode and "snap" focus with the ael/afl button, focus becomes pretty damn dependable.
In super low light the trick is to magnify onto the focus point and then hit the ael/afl button.
Works like a charm unless there is simple zero contrast to find to focus on.

 

[BillBingham2]

I'm not sure an EVF will keep up with an optical yet. Perhaps a few more years, but they are pumping around a LOT of pixels in them.

I'm going optical for wide stuff, back LCD when I care more about parallax.

A first generation GR would be fine, perhaps an X-M1 with some fine Fuji glass.

I just don't think fast panning that will not look "digital" is something you can expect today on EVF cameras.

B2 (;->

 

[marcr1230]

Nice work Robert!

Kostya, if you experience dizziness/vertigo etc. with EVF-only cameras, the X100 makes sense as a light do-it-all family cam, as does the slightly heavier X-Pro. With the X-Pro, too, your M lenses add another option (for even if you disdain the 1.5 crop, in practice it can augment at 28/50/75 what you can do in film at 21/35/50).

ZM 50 1.5

Serenar 100 3.5



The original X models grow ever more affordable. I picked up an X-Pro for $325 a few months ago as a partner for my X-E1.

Luckily I have no trouble with EVF, so the A7 is my current FF solution.

OM Zuiko 85/2

You might find it too fussy to mount optical viewfinders in the shoe for legacy lenses, but if you are (as I imagine from your FSU film practice) comfortable with zone focus/aperture, this can work. Yet if you can afford an M8 with your current sell-off plan, you can also afford an A7 with its 35 2.8 or 55 1.8--and then you could mount an optical VF while using AF.

 

[Godfrey]

My choice for the "I don't want to carry an SLR" days, if not the Leica M-P with one or the other lens, is the Leica X typ 113. Fixed and fast*35mm EFoV lens, a nice size and weight, excellent and simple controls, outstanding lens performance, excellent sensor, etc etc. I almost always have the Leica 35mm OVF fitted for eye-level shooting, and switch back and forth between the OVF and LCD frequently.

Just right for me.

G

 

[Rob-F]

I'll only speak about cameras I actually have and use. I use my small digitals more than my D700. Even though I love the D700, It is not always needed for many shots.

X100: reasonably small, but not as small as the ones below. It has the best imaginable viewfinder. I use it in bright outdoor light, as long as the 35mm focal length is right for the shot. Great color and IQ.

X20: fairly adequate viewfinder with focus indication (which the X10 lacks). Not the smallest, but it will go in my pants pocket. I can also carry it in my hand discreetly. 28 to 112mm zoom! Aperture is f/2 to 2.8. Great color and IQ on this one, too. I also have the X10 and I don't hesitate to use the LCD screen, but the finder is a bit primitive. I have the RAW converter for these, but I don't bother with it, as I'm very happy with their JPEGs.

You get to select Fuji film emulation modes with the three Fuji models. I can shoot Astia, Provia, or Velvia! (equivalents, of course.)

Leica/Panasonic D-Lux 6. Smaller than the X20 and extremely handy. 24 to 90mm equivalent, f/1.4 lens. Great IQ and color from JPEGs. I don't have a RAW converter for it, and don't miss one. Excellent focusing and closeups. Very vivid color, not exaggerated or overblown.

Leica/Panasonic D-Lux 4. Smaller than the D-Lux 6. 24-70mm equivalent with F/2 to 2.8 range. Very handy and easy to carry. Highest ISO at 3200 is a little too ambitious and not as good as the others above, though still useful as an emergency setting.

Leica/Panasonic D-Lux 3. I have used the B-jeepers out of this one! A little smaller even than the D-Lux 4. Both the 3 and the 4 have a very nifty little joystick for setting the aperture and general navigation. The joystick broke on my D-Lux 3 (finally) so I can't set the aperture anymore. But did I set the camera aside? Nope! I started using program mode to let the camera do it. My little D-Lux 3 is too nifty to give it up. The lens is f/2.8 to f/4.9, 28-90mm. The store said Leica charges$200 to repair it. I could get a used one off eBay for less. But I don't wanna. I'm attached to mine.

I started with the D-Lux 3 and then added the 4. I took over a thousand shots with them in France and was very happy with what I got.

 

[lukitas]

Maybe it is like on Graflex RF in the flashlight mode.

Are yours recent pictures taken with X-E2? I like IQ and how you handle it for great results. Impressive close up shots, this is what I after for family, friends photos. Is it difficult to get photos like these with this camera?

I've been using only the X-E2, with the 18 mm (28mm equivalent) for the last few months. It is alright for shooting fast, spur of the moment situations, but the autofocus will often have me grinding my teeth a millisecond or so. Manual focus, or setting to some measure of hyper focal, is as fast as it should be. The depth of field scale is conservative : useable sharpness is deeper than what the camera shows. A lot of my shots are aperture priority and autofocus; I miss a few shots, but it is fine most of the time. It has impressive dynamic range, getting the exposure wrong won't necessarily ruin your picture, especially if you tend to underexpose. I don't mind the noise at higher ISO's. Mine is set from 400 to 6400 ISO, with a minimum shutter speed of 1:125.

It gives me what I need. I can shoot slow, I can shoot fast, and I can just point the camera from way out of my line of sight and expect a decent result : the shot in the gallery you commented on was like that : f 5.6, autofocus, camera on the edge of the table, I ate my sandwich while clicking off three shots, glancing out of the corner of my eye.

Cheers

 

[BorisPDML]

If money is of consideration - you can still get a Ricoh GXR-M in fairly good condition. I have two Ricoh GXR AF modules (mostly for use by my daughter and for backup) and two Leica-M modules. Beside the x1.5 crop, I've been very happy with this system. For me, it replaced Pentax K-5 and some more lenses, mostly bulkier zooms. I should say that I have bought a K-mount to M-mount adapter, so that I could use my SMCP A50/1.2 and SMCP FA77/1.8 lenses as well. I do it relatively rarely, but the results are quite good too.

 

[fireblade]

.......Canon M3.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I've been using only the X-E2, with the 18 mm (28mm equivalent) for the last few months. It is alright for shooting fast, spur of the moment situations, but the autofocus will often have me grinding my teeth a millisecond or so. Manual focus, or setting to some measure of hyper focal, is as fast as it should be...

Thank you, Lukitas.

If X-E2 will have manual focus (M mount) lens on it, is it possible to scale focus and hit shutter release? Will it take it right away?

 

[uhoh7]

FF, stylish and you want to shoot M lenses.

Pretty simple, M8 or M9.

 

[lukitas]

Thank you, Lukitas.

If X-E2 will have manual focus (M mount) lens on it, is it possible to scale focus and hit shutter release? Will it take it right away?

oh yes, no hesitation at all.

 

[FrankS]

I've never had a passion for dslr cameras. The Fuji xe1/2 was the first digital camera that was close enough to the non-digital cameras I am using, to interest me.

 

[Keith]

FF, stylish and you want to shoot M lenses.

Pretty simple, M8 or M9.

I agree with this .... the M9 is now in the price range that makes it quite appealing IMO.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I agree with this .... the M9 is now in the price range that makes it quite appealing IMO.

If I sell 5D, 100L and 50L which is heck a lot of the glass and camera, I'll be X-E2 new kit short to M9.
I wouldn't call it as appealing for camera which I want to take out on hikes and walks with family and friends and use it instead of M4-2 camera, because it is too much hassle with film for these occasions.

Black Fuji X-E1 for the price I don't have to sell anything what's looks very appealing and might be double sexy with my 25/35 CV M-mount glass to wear on 🙂

 

[willie_901]

Really, I had one and it drove me nuts with the 18-55mm lens on it.

Really.

My focus-success rate with the X-Pro 1 is similar to what I achieved with the Zeiss Ikon M. However this could simply mean I was an incompetent Zeiss Ikon M operator.

Of course low light could mean different things to different people.

The X-series bodies without phase-detection AF don't do well with low-contrast scenes and low-light levels make this limitation more obvious. Focusing on a region with contrast in low light is not an issue. Some XF lenses have better AF performance (speed) than others. The 27/2.8 pancake lens works well in low light in the XE-1/X-Pro 1 bodies. If the AF system is hunting, then either the contrast is too low or the AF system parameters are sub-optimal.

Newer X-Series bodies with the phase-detection AF mode doe much better in low-light. However the PD AF focus region is located in the center of the frame (just as a RF patch is in the center!).

If I remember correctly, the X100T, X-T1 and X-T10 have at least a stop more contrast AF sensitivity than the earlier bodies.

 

[Fraser]

why dont you try the new 50mm 1.8 or 40mm pancake before ditching the 5d much smaller than the 50mm 1.2. if its a 5d classic you wont get very much for it in the uk at least dealers are selling them for £300 ish. sell the l glass and buy a smaller lens, artisan & artist easy slider strap and maybe you will carry it about a bit more.
good luck.

 

[harpofreely]

Black Fuji X-E1 for the price I don't have to sell anything what's looks very appealing and might be double sexy with my 25/35 CV M-mount glass to wear on 🙂

I think you will really enjoy this, and its pretty low-risk, financially. I use a generic M-mount adapter, not Fuji's, it was less than $20 and gets the job done. And no need to work about focus lag when using legacy glass; as Lukitas says, pure shutter lag is quite minimal.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

why dont you try the new 50mm 1.8 or 40mm pancake before ditching the 5d much smaller than the 50mm 1.2. if its a 5d classic you wont get very much for it in the uk at least dealers are selling them for £300 ish. sell the l glass and buy a smaller lens, artisan & artist easy slider strap and maybe you will carry it about a bit more.
good luck.

I started with 50 1.8 on 5D. Better than nothing lens.
Pancake is too slow for indoors at ISO 1600 without flash.
I could get EF-S pancake for 500D, it will make it even smaller kit; but I don't get frills anymore with DSLR as walks find and fun camera after 100K shots taken.

 

[f16sunshine]

I think you will really enjoy this, and its pretty low-risk, financially. I use a generic M-mount adapter, not Fuji's, it was less than $20 and gets the job done. And no need to work about focus lag when using legacy glass; as Lukitas says, pure shutter lag is quite minimal.

Yes shutter lag is minimal even with native fuji XF lenses set to manual focus.
Using manual exposure and manual focus I don't notice any lag at all and best of all... You still get auto focusing with the push of a button.
The native fuji lenses are impossible to beat on fuji bodies.
I've tried many M, zeiss contax, and Zuiko OM lenses... The XF lenses in similar focal lengths are better than any of them when it comes to aperture speed and resolution/sharpness/contrast across the frame.
It's fun to use M lenses on the fuji but hardly as productive.
The best part is, Selling one Summicron can buy a person several XF primes 🙂