Chris101
summicronia
Cost doesn't really come into it, because the prints from a digital system are qualitatively different than the prints from a wet chemistry darkroom.
I want to print at home, is it feasible?
- Thread starter msbarnes
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Cost doesn't really come into it, because the prints from a digital system are qualitatively different than the prints from a wet chemistry darkroom.
msbarnes
Well-known
Oh and I forgot to mention that time isnt THAT big of a deal to me. I figured that I would do this once a week at most and not too many prints. If I need to spend a bunch of hours to settup then maybe it is not worth it but 30-60 minutes isn't so bad.
sleepyhead
Well-known
That's good, if you can set up and get working on a regular basis. eNJOY!
giellaleafapmu
Well-known
Reading the answers something which was often told to me when I was a kid come to mind: "If you really want to do something you will always find a way to bake it possible if you are looking for excuses for not doing something you will always find some". I remember that I started printing using the camera itself as enlarger, terrible for having even corners but some interesting effects come out in the process. You will need all the stuff told in other posts, and that all simple to find, build or improvise, but most importantly you will need to ask for a lot of patience to the people living with you who need to go to toilet!
GLF
GLF
maddoc
... likes film again.
ZeissFan
Veteran
We have a double sink, and I cover that with plywood to provide a platform for the enlarger. I also have a small picnic table that I cover with a plastic shower curtain - that is for the processing trays.
I use the handheld shower spray for the final wash of prints.
After I finish, I put everything into a large plastic bin. When I process film, I have another bin that holds all of my chemicals, the beakers, the tanks and reels and whatever else I might need.
I've also recently converted an older enlarger to LED lighting, which seems to work well.
I don't have the room currently to set up my Omega D3.
I once used a regular light bulb in the lamp head and ended up with a very nice photo that included the name of the light bulb maker and the light filament.
In my recent conversion, I've created a diffuser to provide a more even light across the paper. Seems to be working, so far.
I use the handheld shower spray for the final wash of prints.
After I finish, I put everything into a large plastic bin. When I process film, I have another bin that holds all of my chemicals, the beakers, the tanks and reels and whatever else I might need.
I've also recently converted an older enlarger to LED lighting, which seems to work well.
I don't have the room currently to set up my Omega D3.
I once used a regular light bulb in the lamp head and ended up with a very nice photo that included the name of the light bulb maker and the light filament.
In my recent conversion, I've created a diffuser to provide a more even light across the paper. Seems to be working, so far.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
My first darkroom was in a half-bathroom which had just enough room for three trays and the enlarger. I put fixed prints into a bucket on the floor and washed outside in the driveway with a siphon tray. I still have prints made in that darkroom which are perfectly fine.
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
This set up sounds about perfect for me. I'm moving back to the Tama/Chofu area next month. I think this is something I could do.
Thanks.
db
Kirbot
Established
I just got my darkroom set up in the basement a few weeks ago. I don't think I have more than $100 in all the equipment so far. I've been working without an enlarging easel, and I think I prefer it that way.
All you'll need to get started is an enlarger, enlarger lens, negative carrier, 3-4 developing trays, a kitchen timer, tongs, developer, stop bath, fixer, and a dark room to work in.
Grain enlargers, enlarging easels, timers and any other specialized stuff can come later.
All you'll need to get started is an enlarger, enlarger lens, negative carrier, 3-4 developing trays, a kitchen timer, tongs, developer, stop bath, fixer, and a dark room to work in.
Grain enlargers, enlarging easels, timers and any other specialized stuff can come later.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Very feasible, you just have to do it.
And with a lot of people in this forum to mine for specific info, you'll get a good start.
I recently setup mine as part of my garage.
Feel free to contact me if you need more info.
And with a lot of people in this forum to mine for specific info, you'll get a good start.
I recently setup mine as part of my garage.
Feel free to contact me if you need more info.
mwoenv
Well-known
Yes, it's very feasible and I have been doing it for years. The effective bathroom area I have is 5 ft. x 6 ft. See photo.
Light-proof any windows (www.ultrafineonline.com has blackout plastic) and seal the door frame using 3/8" winterizing insulating foam that comes in rolls. While the darkroom is light-proof I only work at night after dark with all the lights out. I occasionally check light-tightness of the window with an outside light on and check the door with a hall light on.
For b&w, the developer tray is on the toilet (seat down), the stop and fixer trays are on the sink, and a water tray is on a hamper. Once in the water tray, I take the print out to the kitchen for washing and hanging to dry. A benefit of this arrangement is that you are not in an unventilated darkroom for the whole time.
For color (RA4), a print drum is loaded after exposure and all developing is done outside in the kitchen.
The enlarger is too heavy to move as one piece so I remove the head from the base/frame and move and re-assemble it in a bedroom when I'm not developing. The timer hangs from a towel rack near the door knob in the photo. I sit on a small chair in front of the enlarger (not shown) and place the paper safe under the chair. In my case, I hang more towels on the shower doors to prevent reflections of light off the metal and glass during exposure. I usually develop 3-4 consecutive nights a month.
Light-proof any windows (www.ultrafineonline.com has blackout plastic) and seal the door frame using 3/8" winterizing insulating foam that comes in rolls. While the darkroom is light-proof I only work at night after dark with all the lights out. I occasionally check light-tightness of the window with an outside light on and check the door with a hall light on.
For b&w, the developer tray is on the toilet (seat down), the stop and fixer trays are on the sink, and a water tray is on a hamper. Once in the water tray, I take the print out to the kitchen for washing and hanging to dry. A benefit of this arrangement is that you are not in an unventilated darkroom for the whole time.
For color (RA4), a print drum is loaded after exposure and all developing is done outside in the kitchen.
The enlarger is too heavy to move as one piece so I remove the head from the base/frame and move and re-assemble it in a bedroom when I'm not developing. The timer hangs from a towel rack near the door knob in the photo. I sit on a small chair in front of the enlarger (not shown) and place the paper safe under the chair. In my case, I hang more towels on the shower doors to prevent reflections of light off the metal and glass during exposure. I usually develop 3-4 consecutive nights a month.
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Ronald M
Veteran
Setup and cleanup are a pain. The rest can be done if you are determined.
