Ideas for trip to India please

john neal

john neal

fallor ergo sum
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After nearly a year without a regular job, I have landed a new position with a blue chip firm and start in 2 weeks and, suddenly, we find that we can afford a short Holiday in November.

What to do? Well, what about India for Diwali? Why not, it's cheaper than a week in Spain! So, I'm looking for advice on (particularly) film for Indian light and what gear to pack.

We will be in Northern India (Delhi, Agra, Varanasi, Jaipur, etc) and will be mostly backpacking, so weight will be an issue. I'm planning on my MP and 35mm Summicron with (possibly) Ektar as a starting point, but would like a 2nd body for B&W, just don't know if I can manage the M4 or IIIc as well.

What other lenses would you take? I have the following to choose from:-

50mm f1.4 Summilux M
Canon 50mm f1.4 LTM
f2 Summitar LTM
CZ Sonnar f1.4 LTM
CZ Sonnar f2 uncoated LTM
35mm f 3.5 Summaron LTM
CV Snapshot Skopar f4 25mm LTM
CV Heliar f4.5 15mm LTM
85MM f2 Jupiter LTM
+ of course, LTM to M adapters

Also, what should we look for in Delhi, apart from the old city? Any ideas on a "different" take for the Taj Mahal? and so on - all ideas welcomed ;)
 
You'll need a versatile wide angle - wider than 35mm - for India's crowded streets. Parts of Old Delhi are so tight that nothing other than the 15mm will be sufficiently wide so that lens gets my vote at once.

I'm not familiar with your other lenses but a decent longer lens will be beneficial for picking out detail in crowded situations.

At the Taj if you have a camera around your neck you'll probably be approached by an unofficial guide who will take you to all the best vantage spots. Your photos will then look very similar to mine and thousands of others but its quite fun and they don't demand a big tip for the knowledge. In many ways the best images of the Taj are from across the river, not within its grounds.

New Delhi is very grand but the great imperial city is difficult to capture - there's too much space and distances get lost in the haze. The old city is a lot more characterful and chaotic.

Varanasi is my favourite of all your destinations - a very moving place with the most gorgeous light reflected off the Ganges. Take an early morning boat trip and hope to capture the mists rising around the bathing ghats. Conceal your camera out of respect when passing by the burning ghats - it's not enough just not to use it, it should be out of sight.

I do hope you're travelling by train - take the opportunity to try the vendors foods (check its freshly cooked) and listen to the sounds of the chai wallahs. If you travel in AC you'll be comfortable but you won't be able to take photos out of the windows (or see much in practice) I preferred the non-AC first-class carriages as you can see, hear (and smell) a lot more.

Have a great time.
 
That sounds like a brilliant trip!

This what I would do with your gear:

I'd keep the CV15 on your screwmount Leica, and a 35 on the MP. Take along one of the fast 50mm lenses. (Make it the Canon because it's a LTM and will fit both cameras.) Take just colour film to keep it simple. (Leave the Jupiter 85 at home because it's too heavy.)

If you want to simplify further, substitute the CV25 for the 15 and 35.

Can't wait to see some of your pictures!
 
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If it were me, and from your selection of lenses, I'd probably take 25-35-50, and seriously consider taking the Summitar for compactness sake. I'd take along the IIIc as a backup/bw body, in addition to the MP.
 
The color of light in India is warm (yellowish), so Ektar's slightly bluish cast might be helpful actually (although, I have only shot Ektar in 120 format). India is quite colorful in terms of people's clothing, colors of walls, signage, etc. In general a neutral film is good, need to watch out for using a high-contrast/high-saturation film might make things a bit too garish.

In general I agree with the wide-angle recommendation, the streets are quite narrow. I grew up and learnt photography in India, and the widest I had then was 35mm. Last time I shot in India, the widest I used was 18mm (27mm 35mm-equivalent FOV) on APS-C digital. India is very crowded, and the wider you go, you have to be more careful to avoid distracting crowds and random people that do not add anything to the composition.

Finally, one of the most interesting photography in India is that of candid and semi-posed portraits of people. For groups of people, or, people framed in a doorway, window or arch, a moderate wide is useful. But I'd recommend you take your 85mm so you can take some gorgeous people shots with the focal length ideally suited for portraits, and with the often distracting and cluttered backgrounds thrown out of focus. An example (on digital) with roughly 90mm 35mm-equivalent FOV:

4881641314_ca498c4ab7.jpg
 
Been to India for business in Februari but also had some time to visit Agra and Delhi. The M2 was in for a repair, so I brought a Nikon FM with 28, 50 and 85mm lenses + an Olympus Mju-II as a back-up.

If you have a very wide lens like the 15, it can work wonders in the crowded, narrow parts of old Delhi, but use a ISO400film at least or be so bold do use flash. I used Ektar and Fuji Superia 400 but also a roll of Provia which turned out really well.

India is very colorful so I would stick to color film. If I go back I'll probably use to the Ektar / Superia 400 combo again and shoot slides and maybe a roll of B/W with a second body.

When looking back, I made lots of pictures but very few of them are any better than snapshot level. We had little time and someone I couldn't manage to take it all in and also make a decent pic ;-)
 
I went to india 10 years ago and only took a Olympus stylus epic and Fiji 100 film; mostly shot video. :)
I have family there and speak a couple of the languages.
I was still overwhelmed.
Whatever you do, simplify and lighten your photo equipment as you will have enough moment to moment choices to make than to figure out which camera and which lens and film.
 
Sorry Mukul,

The letter 'l' on this keyboard is dodgy - hence 'Muku' rather than your correct moniker 'Mukul'. Mea cupa.

Any tips on photography in India? You gave me a an air-blower and advised me to use it in India. I still have it and use it frequently. I seem to remember it was designed for sewing machines not cameras.

Best - Sean in Tipperary.
 
Wow! Thanks for all the input guys - let's see if I can answer a few of the points:-

This is our 2nd trip to India, but the first to "real" India. Last time we only stayed in Goa, so mostly touristy things. We did hire a motorbike an tour around many of the old Portuguese churches though (we are not really beach people).

We have seen the burning Ghats in Katmandhu, and would not dream of even showing a camera, much less using one in that sort of area. Shame the same can't be said for all tourists.

We will be travelling with a few other people, largely by train and local bus, so I hope that we will get the opportunity to mix with local people and enjoy the experience "up close and personal", rather than from behind the sealed windows of splendid AC isolation. I do want to be able to try the fast food and fresh fruit that is offered on station platforms along the way, as well as capture it on film. I don't want to come back with Giardia this time though :eek:

As to luggage, I think my wife and some of the others are planning to have a holdall of some description for their main luggage and a small daysack for stuff that needs to be near to hand. I haven't finally decided, but I am known to travel light, so I might just take one rucksack - let's face it, I will end up carrying my wife's bag as well ;)

I hoped to hear from Mukul Dube, but he's been quiet for a few weeks, and a user search didn't turn up anything for him yesterday. I have his private email somewhere, so will shoot him a line to see what he suggests in Delhi.

Nigel, thanks for your offer, I'll send you a direct message too :)

Overall, I think I will probably take the MP 25, 35 and Canon 50 and then, depending on weight and space, the IIIc for B&W and back up. That way if anything terminal goes wrong with the MP, I will still have 25 and 50 focal lengths that I can use on the IIIc. I would love to take the 85, but it weighs a ton and is a focal length that I hardly ever use.

Conversely, the 15 is so small and light, and sufficiently shorter than the 25 that it might be the one to take (difference between 25 & 35 not being huge?), but the 25 on the IIIc is the ideal street shooter. Indecisive moi?

On the film front, I have some Ektar in stock, and plenty of home-rolled B&W, largely Fuji Acros and Neopan 400 (oh, and 400ft of Plus-X!). I may top up with a few rolls of Portra or even Fuji just to make sure I have enough. I did buy some Kodak Gold in Goa, as I ran short. It was OK, but I think it had been in the shop window too long and I would prefer to avoid that if possible. I'm going to need a separate bag just for film!

Thanks again - still happy to hear your ideas before we go. I'll try to post a selection of the results when we get back.

Oh yes - forgot to say, we are celebrating our wedding anniversary while we are out there. I have booked a 5 star hotel for our first night back in the UK, but my wife doesn't know! :angel:
 
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First tip; if traveling by train and bus take some means of securing your bags against opening and also against removal when you're distracted. First class a/c rail coaches are more comfortable but the windows are nearly always so clouded and obscured by dirt and/or condensation that viewing, let alone photography, is difficult. Buy your own water supplies and ensure the caps are sealed when you get them. I've seen bottles filled from taps in obscure places on railway platforms and recapped before being offered to tourists. Be prepared to bargain. There's a local price and a foreigner price for most things you'll be offered. Like about 5x for a shoe shine. Ask a local if in doubt.

Second tip; India (as you probably know) is colourful and chaotic. You'll probably take more colour shots than B&W and you should consider taking your film supply with you - it's quite hard and time consuming to try to hunt down film there while you're on the move. Airport security don't seem to understand the words "hand inspection" either.

Third tip; November is starting to get into their winter (yours too, I see). I mainly got by with 100-125 ISO B&W but take a few rolls of 400, and for colour I used 200 ISO mainly but if you want to photograph weddings or celebrations at night you'll need something faster.

Fourth - not a tip, but my own preferences. I have the 15mm, 21mm and 25mm lenses but I think the 15 is a bit extreme for this. Personally I'd take the 21mm but as you have both the 15 and the 25 I'd take both. Chances are you won't use the 15 very much at all. After that, the 35mm and a 50mm either f2 or f1.4. I took my 75 mm on about ten trips over two years and never used it!
 
Leigh,

Thanks - sound advice. We always check things like seals on water bottles wherever we are - have seen the same trick in Egypt, Bulgaria and S America too many times.

We are looking at those stainless steel mesh things you can get for your bags. Fitted on with a padlock, it stops most things being pinched from luggage, even if the bag has been opened with a razor - you can also wrap it around something immovable if you are feeling sleepy. Quite expensive, but better than losing everything!

I will have to think about film speed - I had forgotten that it is likely to be getting dark from 5pm or so. Some flexible 400 colour (Fuji?) wouldn't go amiss.

We will have a local friend with us, so hope that we will get some good advice - I just hope he is not on commission with any of the shops in Delhi........
 
john neal said:
We are looking at those stainless steel mesh things you can get for your bags. Fitted on with a padlock, it stops most things being pinched from luggage, even if the bag has been opened with a razor - you can also wrap it around something immovable if you are feeling sleepy. Quite expensive, but better than losing everything!.
Click to expand...

That might be a bit of overkill. I was thinking about Howrah station and the vendors there who sell chains and padlocks to the locals for securing their bags to something while they sleep on the train. Some look a bit flimsy but probably do the job. A bicycle chain and lock or similar would probably do as well, if not better. I didn't have to do any overnight train trips but it sounds like you might and I think the major risk is someone just picking up a loose bag, unobserved, and making off with it to open it elsewhere to see if there's anything interesting inside.
There were luggage racks on the trains I generally used (aircon coach class) but on the long distance trains the space under the lower bunks was used for luggage (about 10" maximum height) and if I had a soft bag or rucksack I put a towel over it and used it as a pillow. There were usually six bunks, three a side in each compartment and just a curtain screening off the passageway.
 
Oh, and the porters. At least in Kolkata they're unionised and the going rate was about 50 Rp per bag, but more if platform changes were required. It's considered bad form not to use them and, frankly, they made the business of getting on the train and to the right compartment easier - not that it's easy anyway. The porters don't speak English. After agreeing to handle your bags they'll disappear but will unfailingly return and complete their deal when the train rolls in. Keep up with them then. Don't stand back - push in and use your height and 'presence' to advantage. Standing back and being polite is not something that Indian train travellers respect or practice. As you'll have a local friend you shouldn't have much trouble though. He'll tell you what to expect/do.
 
Leigh,

Thanks again - we do have a couple of long-ish train rides, but not overnight (well, not planned that way). I'm looking forward to "mixing it" with the locals in transit. I have experienced extreme rail travel on the Tokyo underground at rush-hour, and travelled back from the Dudsaghar Falls (sp?) in India in the driver's cab - a 50Rp special experience!

The new rugby season just started here, so I should be in trim by then - I will have to remember the old adage of Andy Ripley - "knees & elbows" ;)
 
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