iiic+Summitar arrived, not the best condition though

PeterL

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Mar 9, 2006
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Hi,

I jumped up in joy this morning when the mail man rang the bell. I just love opening boxes when there's Leica stuff hidden in it. It's my first Leica body, though, and it has a bit of its own will.

On B and with the lens removed, I can see that the first shutter curtain doesn't open all the way when I keep the shutter depressed. Also, after releasing, when I wind, there seems to be a bit of slack first. So I'm guessing the second curtain also doesn't go all the way. As a matter of fact, I can still see it moving slowly after the exposure is supposed to be finished. The fast shutter speed dial does the same (obviously, since it's coupled with the shutter curtains).

The slow shutter speeds also give a problem. They usually act like the shutter is on B: the shutter stays open (first curtain not entirely open) until I release the button. I checked the iiif manual to see if I'm using the right procedure, and I am. When using 1/4s or slower, the timing mechanism doesn't work fluently: sometimes the "krrrr" is interrupted and nothing happens anymore. Particularly the 1s speed is bad: I need to use the wind button to unblock the shutter.

The take-up spool also feels a bit weird when inserting it, as if it's rubbing against dried up grease. As for the Summitar for which I bought this bundle, it is hazed and the lens barrel isn't smooth. It feels like the oil is dried up.

Does this sound like a rip-off ? I paid €190 for body+lens. I guess that it's normal to get a 1949 camera in urgent need of a CLA from time to time, but I'm rather new to LTM. Before, I bought a Zorki+I-22 in a shop, so I could play with it before I decided, and a Summaron 35/f3.5 in splendid condition on eBay (better than advertised). Maybe my luck was running out and I should quit whining & send the camera to Ukraine for a CLA (what was the guy's name and link again ? Was it Olek ?)

What do you think ?


Peter.
 
The price seems OK for a body and lens in reasonable cosmetic condition - most in the UK would be more (around UKP180 for a body only, plus UKP80 to 120 for a decent Elmar).

Sounds like it dried out lubricant and incorrect shutter tension - it could do with a CLA on the shutter and adjustment of the slow speeds. This is not that difficult to do yourself - it only needs the body to come off (8 screws) and you can get to everything you need to work on. Check out the manuals posted in the repairs forum.
 
Hi,

Thanks both on confirming what I already thought... great price, so a CLA was to be expected. Can somebody point me to that repair person in FSU, or to a good one for a decent price in or near Belgium ? I don't mind shipping&waiting if the quality of the CLA is really good and the price is okay.

EDIT: I think I found who I was looking for... Oleg in Russia , not Olek in Ukraine *oops* I seem to remember people recommending Oleg. Can somebody confirm this ?


Peter.
 
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Why send it to Russia? There must be a place in or around Belgium. Recently I sent my Yashicamat 124G to Kunee Instruments in Emmen, Netherlands: www.kunee-instruments.nl. They're crazy about film cameras and they repair Leica as well.
 
Hi Daniel,

The Jupiter-8 isn't collapsible 🙁 Now, honestly, the Summitar also sticks out of the body more than expected and I wouldn't like to carry anything bigger than that.

I've done some research, and it seems that Oleg is the place to be for the body, and Arax in Kiev for the lens. I'll get in touch with them to see what they can do for me.


Thanks for the advise,

Peter.
 
I'll also mail Kunee for an offer. Thanks, Jeroen 😉 I don't know places in Belgium that could do it, though. Prices from Oleg and Arax are very good, though, that's one of the reasons to send the cameras off.


Peter.
 
I sent an Elmar 50/3.5 to Oleg in January to fix a stuck focus ring and do a complete CLA. Transit time from the US to Oleg was 2 weeks, then 1 day in the shop and back to me 2 weeks later. Total price was $23 including shipping. He did a great job. I can't recommend him enough. He's not an optics expert, but any mechanical lens repair he can easily handle.
 
Thanks for the advice, everybody. On APUG, somebody recommended Will Van Manen from kamera-service in Holland. I've had an e-mail conversation with him yesterday. That was Easter day, so it shows his dedication 🙂 Very friendly man. The few references I found online were recommendations only, and his prices are good. So I've decided to send him body and lens.

In the meantime, I've shot about half a roll with the Summitar in as-is condition. Because mechanically it's not smooth at all, I'm sending it in with the body. Just curious how the pictures turn out.


Peter.
 
I think you bought my camera!

Well, not really "my" camera, but me and the seller already came to an agreement and then he just dissappeared from the face of the earth - never answered any mails. Is it this one: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19463 ? I'm guessing yes because of the condition of the camera and the price you describe,

I could be mistaken though, but I am still pissed off at that particular seller.
 
Funny, I received a 'Sharkskin" IIIc today that has exactly the same symptoms. The slow speed all act as "B" and the curtains (especialy the first one) are slugish and "trail" at the end of their courses...
I supose anyone doing Leicas CLAs in the UK is going to be outrageously expensive ?
 
Buze said:
I supose anyone doing Leicas CLAs in the UK is going to be outrageously expensive ?
That depends on what you think a CLA'd 111c is worth 😕 .
A 111c which has been properly CLA'd is a fine instrument, which will last for a good few years before it needs further attention. If I compare my 111c to, say, a point and shoot, or bridge digital, the 111c has to be worth much more.
This is not necessarily market value, you understand, but intrinsic value.
 
Well, I have a few Zorki 1s that have Intrinsic value too, and these I serviced myself. I'd like the Leica serviced so it get the professional attention relative to it's superior monetary value. I don't want to pay more for the service than for the camera tho...

Anyway, seems exercising of the shutter unblocked whatever was stuck. I'm certain it's not sufficient to make it a shootable camera, but at least I know all the bits & pieces are working, abeit a bit slowly.

Alternatively, I'd appreciate any pointer to IIIc servicing material online, I'm curious as how to uncouple safely the slow-speeds, since it seems to be one of the major difference with the zorkis.
 
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