Michael-
My favorite and most used combination is FP4 and Rodinal. It is quite grainy, with the grain looking like sharp sand. Grain is only a little finer than HP5/ rodinal, but even sharper. Image sharpness with this combination is phenomenal.
I expose ISO 64, then process with 1:50 dilution and the following agitation (stainless tank): 4 inversions at the beginning and then 4 inversions at the 4 and 8 minute marks, then finish at 12 minutes. I use a thorough rinse in place of a stop bath to avoid pinholes.
And it is pretty good for portraiture, provided you get plenty of exposure, maybe expose ISO 40; shadows can be quite harsh otherwise, the film seems to have a rather sudden toe. If you're using 35mm, you won't want to crop much or enlarge past 8x10 because of the grain.
For other, more mainstream recommendations try the Massive Dev Chart.
Enjoy!