Ilfotec DD-X dilution

[kiss-o-matic]

Howdy

I've only done a few rolls on my own, and I did it w/ TMax Dev... mainly b/c it's the only liquid my shop had and I didn't feel like mixing any powder. I'm not doing backflips w/ the results with Ilford 3200. The internet is telling me DD-X is better on that film, so I'm going to give it a shot.

My TMax bottle says nothing of dilution. The listing on the interwebs of DD-X (at least locally) says "Concentrated Developer (for 5 liters)" and the bottle plainly states "1+4 to make 5 liters". Some recipes on The Massive Dev chart have 1+4, some have 1+9.

Do I dilute the concentrate at 1+4 to make my stock, and store in my very own bottle... then decide whether to dilute at 1+4 or 1+9 based on my needs for each development cycle?

And just for fun, I see that this developer is $18.95 and B&H Photo, and runs a tad over $45 locally. I don't really like those apples.

Cheers.

 

[L Collins]

DDX is very good with Ilford 3200.

You dont need a " stock" solution. Just mix as needed, either at 1:4 or 1:9. I tend to use the 1:9 solutions as it makes the bottle last longer.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Okay. Seems rather pricey that way. I will definitely be doing 1+9. Easier to get it to 24C in my house at the moment as well!. That will change in two months when all Japanese homes become ice boxes though.

 

[Argenticien]

Be aware, though, that Ilford's own documentation somewhat cryptically says "image quality will be reduced slightly" when using the 1+9 dilution. I've never done a tightly controlled experiment (a film of two sets of the same test shots, snipped in half, one half developed in 1+4 and the other in 1+9) to see what kind of image quality reduction occurs, or how severe. Unless and until you can quantify that degradation and decide you're not bothered by it, I'd suggest that if you think a particular roll might have the photo of a lifetime (or even of the year) on it, throw the 1+4 at it to be safe.

I had been using Ilfosol because it was available in my local shop, but found it to be OK for everything and great at nothing (as you might expect for a general-purpose developer). I gave up and started mail-ordering developers: Rodinal for 50/100 ASA films, DD-X for 400 and higher. I've found both to be improvements. You'll probably do fine with DD-X.

--Dave

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Rodinal for 50/100 ASA films, DD-X for 400 and higher. I've found both to be improvements. You'll probably do fine with DD-X.

This is basically what I've ready (although I think maybe Rodinal up to 400?). I've found a single shop in the whole city that carries Rodinal, and he doesn't seem to rape his customers. Actually stocks Rollei film as well, which is not very common here. He is shut two days a week though, and it's supposed to rain the next two days, so I'll ride my bike over and grab some of that next sunny day.

I guess I'm curious what "Image quality reduction" is. If I could get DD-X for the US price I would probably not mind doing 1+4. At $45, I'm going to have to stretch it out for a while, I'm sad to say.

 

[john_s]

The "image quality reduction" might turn out to be a small alteration in the usual compromises: grain size, speed, and impression of sharpness. Maybe, and this is a guess, something like what people report with dilution of standard developers, a touch more speed (with the appropriate development time), a touch more sharpness but at the expense of a bit more grain. Probably still very good, and maybe even preferable depending on your style.

 

[mfogiel]

If you push in a 1+9 solution, the grain shows through a bit. 1+4 will give you more speed and less grain. Try Tri X for half an hour in 1+9 24C exposing between 500 and 4000 and find your speed. Agitation every 3 minutes.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

Will do that. I just happen to have a lot of Ilford Delta 3200 lying around. 🙂

 

[Colin Corneau]

... Rodinal for 50/100 ASA films, DD-X for 400 and higher.....

--Dave

This is my finding, too - arrived at after years of trying out different developers. YMMV but it's good advice.

DD-X is a terrific product, I've only ever used it at 1:4 (never tried it 1:9) and it's never been anything but top notch.

I mix it from the bottle as needed for one-shot development. Usually a 2 reel (35mm) or 1 (120) tank takes 500ml of developer which makes it easy -- 100ml of developer from the bottle and 400ml of water...away you go.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

I think my tank for 2 35mm reels is 650ml. Does that sound right? If I really only need 500ml, I'm wasting a bit. I know... I'm cheap.

 

[Argenticien]

I think my tank for 2 35mm reels is 650ml. Does that sound right? If I really only need 500ml, I'm wasting a bit. I know... I'm cheap.

There are lots of different tanks, so we can't say what volume you need without knowing the tank in question. Mine (an Arista plastic Paterson-knockoff tank) has embossed on the bottom the volumes to use for various reels (one 35mm, one 120, two 35mm, etc.). If yours doesn't have the answer key on the bottom, you could always put in the two reels (without films of course), fill with water to cover, then pour the water back out into your graduated cylinder to measure that "just covers it" volume.

I've never been to Tokyo, but given what a film Mecca that I hear it is, I'm surprised you have trouble finding some developers. I'm not surprised that when you do find developers, they're priced outrageously.

--Dave

 

[john_s]

I have read of people using 1+6 as a compromise. You could use the amount needed for 500mL of 1+4 and dilute it to 650mL.

 

[kiss-o-matic]

I actually have two tanks by the same manufacturer. Says 1 real is 300 ml, but two is 650. You save time for 2, but lose a bit of developer. I assume this is b/c of the thickness of the reels. Anywho, I won't lose too much sleep over it. 🙂