kid_a
Established
Indeed. Thanks for your attention everyone, I've put through 2 rolls and should have them up in a week. I'll get these 2 done through my lab, and during the week wait, I'll learn to develop myself
Thanks again!
kid_a
Established
And just to let everyone know what kind of deal I got:
It was originally listed as $700USD,
I traded him a Rollei 35 w/ Rollei flash, an Olympus PEN D, and a Pentax K1000, getting him down to about $325USD.
I paid a total of $0 for the three cameras I traded, and used them very sparingly, if at all. So I'm happy with the deal!
Also, is there a difference between the black and the chrome 50/1,4? Mine is a black one.
It was originally listed as $700USD,
I traded him a Rollei 35 w/ Rollei flash, an Olympus PEN D, and a Pentax K1000, getting him down to about $325USD.
I paid a total of $0 for the three cameras I traded, and used them very sparingly, if at all. So I'm happy with the deal!
Also, is there a difference between the black and the chrome 50/1,4? Mine is a black one.
JohnM
Well-known
The black lens is lighter.
back alley
IMAGES
looks pretty good kid!
that strap looks a bit too serious for me
here's a pic of the one that i had..
that strap looks a bit too serious for me
here's a pic of the one that i had..
kid_a
Established
Nice! Where can I get a hood like that?
The strap will go on my D300, I love the style, but only for SLR, I already have someone on www.etsy.com building me a lower profile leather strap for it, and also a sling strap like Gordy sells.
The strap will go on my D300, I love the style, but only for SLR, I already have someone on www.etsy.com building me a lower profile leather strap for it, and also a sling strap like Gordy sells.
back alley
IMAGES
american eagle and heavystar, both on ebay, sell them.
kid_a
Established
You had me cringing there. I saw "American Eagle" and thought "Oh great, another one jumping on the classic camera or toy camera bandwagon like Urban Outfitters"
I'm sick of skinny jeaned kids coming and and asking if we develop "holga film"
back alley
IMAGES
you guys develop holga film?
great news, are you open on sundays?
great news, are you open on sundays?
kid_a
Established
you guys develop holga film?
great news, are you open on sundays?
Yeah man we even make Holga prints!! And sell Holga film!
Not open Sundays, your Holga will have to wait
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
kid a ... good luck with the S2. I have a black dial, it's a fine camera and after a CLA will probably outlive me. I notice you seem to have a fair bit of digital gear so obviously enjoy that medium as well ... maybe there will be an M8 in your future at some stage, for the best of both worlds?
kid_a
Established
kid a ... good luck with the S2. I have a black dial, it's a fine camera and after a CLA will probably outlive me. I notice you seem to have a fair bit of digital gear so obviously enjoy that medium as well ... maybe there will be an M8 in your future at some stage, for the best of both worlds?
Luckily I'm at the point where I'm very very close to being completely satisfied with my digital kit. I don't have a burning desire to buy anything else, at the moment, so it lets me put money into film stuff. I have all the digital for work mostly, if I didn't work with it I would have much more film stuff, which I enjoy a lot more.
I don't think the M8 is in my future, I'd rather have an M7 or something. The Leica digital doesn't really interest me. If I'm spending $10,000 on digital gear, I'll save up a bit longer and go digital medium format. Not something I can come even close to justifying, but it's how I look at it. The incredible Leica lenses and build quality don't make as huge a difference if they're projecting on to a sensor that isn't any better than the other stuff out there, which from what I've read is the case.
But that's neither here nor there, I'll enjoy the S2 for a long time. Now I'm on the search for darkroom supplies and a suitable 28-35 wide angle. Any suggestions? I'm also a bit confused as to the lens mount. Apparently it's a copy of the Contax one? Does this mean all Contax RF lenses will work flawlessly?
kid_a
Established
Well, I've found my first problem.. Anything slower than 1/60 seems to work in bulb mode. When I set it to 30-I to use slower shutter speeds, no matter what it's set on it seems to work like a bulb exposure.. too bad
kid_a, I hope you enjoy your "new" classic S2, and get that shutter problem cleared up. As a first step, you might "exercise" the shutter in all speeds, concentrating the clicking in the problem area. It could be that the camera has sat unused for a long time, and this shutter activity may gradually unstick the sticky bits.
On that strap... I suggest it's a bad design due to the extensive metal hardware at each end. As it clanks against the camera body it will tend to scratch and abrade the finish. Better to find a strap with minimal metal, and even better use leather patches over the body's strap lugs, common for instance on modern Contax straps. The leather patches also can be had from Aki-Asahi.
On that strap... I suggest it's a bad design due to the extensive metal hardware at each end. As it clanks against the camera body it will tend to scratch and abrade the finish. Better to find a strap with minimal metal, and even better use leather patches over the body's strap lugs, common for instance on modern Contax straps. The leather patches also can be had from Aki-Asahi.
awilder
Alan Wilder
Sorry to learn of your shutter problem. I once bought a new 2005 SP but returned it upon discovering that 1/30 second actually measured at 1/15 second. Did the dealer have anything else like an S3 or M2 to look at? In light of the shutter malfunction, I'm sure he'd gladly make an exchange and you'd simply cover any difference if the other camera is more. If you decide to keep the S2 and even if you got the camera's shutter to work with some exercise, it's probably an indication that a CLA is advised for a 55 yr. old camera to put it in good working order. Not to complicate matters, but I see a recently professionally serviced M2 is up for sale in our classifieds for under $600. No ST and button instead of lever rewind but it looks like a great shooter. Regarding lens compatibility with Contax lenses (C mount ?), the Nikon S mount is similar but not 100% compatible with some Contax lenses as there were back focus differences due to an error on Nikon's part in their attempt to copy the Contax mount. Those more knowledgeable on Nikon RF can fill in the details. The best thing is try and see if Steve Gandy has any new CV lenses remaining in the SC mount. He had several at one time at very attractive prices and optically they are superior to the older RF Nikkors. Good luck.
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VinceC
Veteran
Contax lenses (the old Contax) will fit flawless on a Nikon S-mount camera, but they don't focus accurately with the 50mm and telephotos. It's complicated and has to the with the fact that Nikon set up its camera business in the 1940s by making lenses for Leica, and didn't necessarily expect their camera body business to really take off the way it did. Full story here: http://www.cameraquest.com/NRF-Contax.htm
On your S2, the B setting and the low-speed notch are very close to each other. It might sound obvious, but make sure the top dial is set to 1-30 and not to B. Also you have to set the top dial after the camera has been wound. By the way, it's normal for the 1000 setting to sit a little high. The 2-speed dial is one of the idiosyncracies of the S2 -- starting with the SP/S3, you have a modern mechanical interface identical to the later Nikon F and carried over to the F2.
On your S2, the B setting and the low-speed notch are very close to each other. It might sound obvious, but make sure the top dial is set to 1-30 and not to B. Also you have to set the top dial after the camera has been wound. By the way, it's normal for the 1000 setting to sit a little high. The 2-speed dial is one of the idiosyncracies of the S2 -- starting with the SP/S3, you have a modern mechanical interface identical to the later Nikon F and carried over to the F2.
kid_a
Established
As others have mentioned, the S2 is a great camera. I would add to the list of things to look out for mentioned above the following; clearness of the viewfinder (if it is too green, it will probably only get darker); also, check the film advance lever. After winding a frame, it should spring back without stalling.
Price-wise, as others have mentioned, you can probably find one for a bit less. Of course, the S2 (or any other Nikon Rangefinder) is fun to use and will definitely make a fantastic conversation starter with anyone who admires classic cameras! Not that a Leica M (insert number here) won't attract attention, it's just that there were less Nikon rangefinders made, and they look so much cooler (especially the early ones with the original Nikon font; the ones with the curvy "N")!
It is a slight bit green... is it supposed to be? It doesn't seem like a problem, helps separate the rangefinder window from the rest of the scene
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I think that Vince hit it on the nail. Try the slow speeds according to his info. I find the Nikon's rarely go out of "speed". The Leicas have more problem with this - they dont age as gracefully!
My recommendations is that you spend the next couple of months shooting with the 50mm lens and the S2 (it is about as good as it gets with a 50 anyway so it is no hardship). Once you have gotten the hang of the 50, you can start looking at a wider lens (or longer for that matter). The Nikkor 35's are good, very good and lenses like the 35f2.5 will give a Summicron 35f2 version I or II a run for its money anytime. A wide that matches the 50f1.4 very well is the 28f3.5 (either Nikkor or VC). The Nikkor 25 is very costly and if you need anything wider than 28, look for the VC 21/25's.
Of course you have now entered the chamber of horrors that is Nikon RF. There you are with a S2 and a 50f1.4 and a small voice inside your head going "but wouldn't it be nice with a S3 or maybe a SP and this lens and that lens". One day you will wake up to a cabinet filled with Nikon RF gears and have no idea how it happened! I know this from personal experience!!
My recommendations is that you spend the next couple of months shooting with the 50mm lens and the S2 (it is about as good as it gets with a 50 anyway so it is no hardship). Once you have gotten the hang of the 50, you can start looking at a wider lens (or longer for that matter). The Nikkor 35's are good, very good and lenses like the 35f2.5 will give a Summicron 35f2 version I or II a run for its money anytime. A wide that matches the 50f1.4 very well is the 28f3.5 (either Nikkor or VC). The Nikkor 25 is very costly and if you need anything wider than 28, look for the VC 21/25's.
Of course you have now entered the chamber of horrors that is Nikon RF. There you are with a S2 and a 50f1.4 and a small voice inside your head going "but wouldn't it be nice with a S3 or maybe a SP and this lens and that lens". One day you will wake up to a cabinet filled with Nikon RF gears and have no idea how it happened! I know this from personal experience!!
kid_a
Established
Tom: I'm sure it will happen as well. That is how photography has gone for me so far! Christmas 2006 I didn't even own a SINGLE camera, and I had never ever shot a single shot of film in my life. Now, just over 2 years later, I've got:
4 DSLR bodies, 7 pro lenses all 2,8 or faster, 1 film SLR, 1 new rangefinder, two fixed lens 35mm, 2 medium format bodies, one with 1 lens, the other with 3 lenses.. among other stuff. This is all only at age 22, I dread/can't wait to see what I have once I make "real" money, haha
I've actually figured out the slow shutter speed problem, I can kind of fool the camera. If I set the dial to be a bit "before" the 30-I mark, so that it sits out of place (It doesn't click into place, I set it a couple mm before the real mark), then all the slower shutter speeds work fine! This was a great discovery, haha.
4 DSLR bodies, 7 pro lenses all 2,8 or faster, 1 film SLR, 1 new rangefinder, two fixed lens 35mm, 2 medium format bodies, one with 1 lens, the other with 3 lenses.. among other stuff. This is all only at age 22, I dread/can't wait to see what I have once I make "real" money, haha
I've actually figured out the slow shutter speed problem, I can kind of fool the camera. If I set the dial to be a bit "before" the 30-I mark, so that it sits out of place (It doesn't click into place, I set it a couple mm before the real mark), then all the slower shutter speeds work fine! This was a great discovery, haha.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The only consolation that I can offer is that with age you start looking at the weight of the camera cases and decide to go light weight. If I cant push it along the floor, I get rid of it. Bye,bye 8x10's/4x5's and 65 lbs of Hasselblad stuff and a massive weight of tripod's and flash equipment. You do realize that when you have to upgrade to a E350 Ford van from a E250 - you have too much stuff.
VinceC
Veteran
The slight green cast in the viewfinder is normal, and unique to the S2. The S3 is clear and untinted (but some would say prone to glare) and the SP is untinted but somewhat darker.
I agree with Tom. With age, it's all about the weight. I shot for newspapers in my 20s. Carried in my daily Domke bag an F2 and an F plus six lenses ... 17 Tokina; 24/2.8; 50/1.4; 85/2; 180/2.8 and often 300/4 plus a couple of Vivitar flashes and usually a third body, either FM2 or Nikkormat for faster fill-flash sync or Nikon S2 for some color Kodachromes alongside the news assignment (I never liked mixing color and B&W in the same camera types). One day I reached over to pick up the camera bag and my back gave out. Took me a painful hour to crawl to the telephone to get help. It was a temporary spasm but happened early enough in my working life that I quickly rethought my equipment. Goodby 300/4; adios heavy F2 and F motor. The bag was quickly down to the basics. F and FM2 and the main four lenses - 24/50/80/180. Then I figured out the RFs were more to my shooting style, bought an S3 and SP, and had the bag down to a 28/3.5; 50/1.4; 85/2 and 135/3.5 -- sometimes I'd add the Zeiss 21/4.5, but not often because of the weight; and sometimes use the 105/2.5 in place of both telephotos. Usually I'd throw in a 35/1.8 for low-light work.
I'm heading out on a 9-day business trip in a few days (no longer work for newspapers, instead handle press relations for a government office, but this still involves some writing and photography). The bag will consist of: D40 (for light weight) with kit lens plus essentially weightless 55-200 zoom; 35/2 AIS for low-light digital; SP with color film and CV 25/4; Nikkor 35/1.8; 50/1.4 and 85/2. The D40 is for the daily work including what needs to be put up on the Web immediately. The SP is for long-range projects, portraits, etc.
I agree with Tom. With age, it's all about the weight. I shot for newspapers in my 20s. Carried in my daily Domke bag an F2 and an F plus six lenses ... 17 Tokina; 24/2.8; 50/1.4; 85/2; 180/2.8 and often 300/4 plus a couple of Vivitar flashes and usually a third body, either FM2 or Nikkormat for faster fill-flash sync or Nikon S2 for some color Kodachromes alongside the news assignment (I never liked mixing color and B&W in the same camera types). One day I reached over to pick up the camera bag and my back gave out. Took me a painful hour to crawl to the telephone to get help. It was a temporary spasm but happened early enough in my working life that I quickly rethought my equipment. Goodby 300/4; adios heavy F2 and F motor. The bag was quickly down to the basics. F and FM2 and the main four lenses - 24/50/80/180. Then I figured out the RFs were more to my shooting style, bought an S3 and SP, and had the bag down to a 28/3.5; 50/1.4; 85/2 and 135/3.5 -- sometimes I'd add the Zeiss 21/4.5, but not often because of the weight; and sometimes use the 105/2.5 in place of both telephotos. Usually I'd throw in a 35/1.8 for low-light work.
I'm heading out on a 9-day business trip in a few days (no longer work for newspapers, instead handle press relations for a government office, but this still involves some writing and photography). The bag will consist of: D40 (for light weight) with kit lens plus essentially weightless 55-200 zoom; 35/2 AIS for low-light digital; SP with color film and CV 25/4; Nikkor 35/1.8; 50/1.4 and 85/2. The D40 is for the daily work including what needs to be put up on the Web immediately. The SP is for long-range projects, portraits, etc.