I'm half-way there...

[shadowfox]

I finally got the equipments to develop bw myself. My thought was if I'm going to get into the hassle of learning to develop, I might as well get rewarded with big negatives.

So I got the tank (500ml) and reels (one 120 and two 135 reels).
Also got a changing bag.

Now I only need to get the chemicals, exposed 120 bw films (have the film, just need to shoot), and advices/tips.

Any gotchas to watch out for in developing 120 films?
A side question, which developer/fixer would you guys recommend for T-max 125 (120 format)?

Thanks a lot!

 

[payasam]

Perhaps you should start with a standard MQ type like D-76. My own preference was Promicrol (later Microphen), which gives fine grain and slightly higher speed.
[edit] I saw someone say on a forum that at first he loaded his tank's reels with 120 film with the backing paper.

 

[Doug]

[edit] I saw someone say on a forum that at first he loaded his tank's reels with 120 film with the backing paper.

Interesting! It never occurred to me to do that, but I can see how such a misunderstanding might be done. I wonder if the paper withstood the effects of the various chemicals... if it remained intact, leaving it in might not have had a bad effect on the process, since the emulsion faces away from the backing paper...

On to Shadowfox's questions... I've not used T-Max, so maybe the Massive Development Chart would be useful, or the film package may include developer suggestions. I've found 120 film a little more challenging to get onto stainless steel reels than 35mm; it just takes feeling your way and checking each wrap for kinks, which you may also hear happening! Feel and listen... 🙂 And I like to push the film a bit "backwards" on the reel to make sure the wrap isn't too tight; I like the film to have some room to move and prevent kinks and other wrap problems like being pulled down to the previous coil so that film touches film, preventing full development in patches. Ugly results!

 

[shadowfox]

Ok, so the exposed film spool, the reel, the tank and my hands are inside the changing bag. Of course there's no canister opener needed for 120, how do I proceed then?

Just peel the paper backing as I unroll the film from the spool, while reeling it?

 

[Xmas]

Shad

Yes some people use finger nail to break the paper seal, unwind the paper, until you get to film and feed the film into the reel, and feed, and feed

When you get to the end of the film the end (the start) is pressure sensitive taped to the backing paper, and you need to unstick this and wind all the film on to the reel.

Never managed to do it that way myself, I unwind the paper and wind up the film at the same time, separate from the unwinding paper, the film will have a natural curl, when you get to the 'start' separate the pressure sensitive tape from the paper and fold the still sticky tape over the film and load this stiffened end first.

Never managed this in a changing bag, without mysterious flying objects in the sky of the best shots - as if you crimp the film it will an effect just like exposure to light.

But dont worry about me try either way.

35mm is a whole lot easier...

Darkroom is a whole lot easier, your palms will be dripping in a changing bag.

Noel

 

[oftheherd]

Ok, so the exposed film spool, the reel, the tank and my hands are inside the changing bag. Of course there's no canister opener needed for 120, how do I proceed then?

Just peel the paper backing as I unroll the film from the spool, while reeling it?

Both the film and paper should curl by themselves pretty easily, especially once you first separate them. I usually go ahead and completely separate them, then use a pair of sissors to cut the paper off just where attaches. As I recall, it is kept on by a pretty strong adhesive so it is easier to cut that try and pull apart. Then put it on the reel. Some people seem to think it is easier to put on the reels if you don't start the film under the holder. I think just like 35mm, you should sacrifice a roll and practice. It will keep you from getting very sweaty hands practicing in the changing bag the first time you try it. And remember if you really have problems and want to rest, all you have to do is put the rolled up film in the developing tank and put the lid on. It is light tight and you can rest and rebuild your resolve.

Good luck.

 

[Rhoyle]

If you're using T-Max film, use T-Max developer if you're just getting started. It's easy and works very well.

B

 

[shadowfox]

Guys, thanks for the pointers, I'll go get some developer and try this out.