mcfingon
Western Australia
I like the punchy Tri-X look of the B&W conversion. It's especially good on the white building planks and in the clouds top left.
Impressions of the M10
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I like the punchy Tri-X look of the B&W conversion. It's especially good on the white building planks and in the clouds top left.
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Nowhereman
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maggieo
More Deadly
Try backing off the red filter slider and maybe use a control point on the tree in the center to brighten it up and maybe punch up the contrast and/or structure.
I really like the image and it's just a few tweaks away from being great.
I really like the image and it's just a few tweaks away from being great.
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Nowhereman
Guest
maggio- thanks. I've done some dodging with control points as you suggest and may have to try to play some more with the red slider when I get some time.
There are several issue when you use SEFEX: one is whether to bring in the finished color picture, the original DNG, or the "flattened" (low contrast) version of the finished color picture. I generally find the latter works best. For example, in this picture, to get the fence planks dark, works best with the flattened picture.
There are several issue when you use SEFEX: one is whether to bring in the finished color picture, the original DNG, or the "flattened" (low contrast) version of the finished color picture. I generally find the latter works best. For example, in this picture, to get the fence planks dark, works best with the flattened picture.
LightBender
Member
Mitch, I like your B&W conversions.
I've had my M10 for exactly 3 months and it is such a wonderful camera. Looking forward to seeing more of your images.
I have the original version of the 28/5.6 Summaron. It has been a fun little lens to shoot. Especially, shot into the sun.
I've had my M10 for exactly 3 months and it is such a wonderful camera. Looking forward to seeing more of your images.
I have the original version of the 28/5.6 Summaron. It has been a fun little lens to shoot. Especially, shot into the sun.
LightBender
Member
As far as the DR is concerned. I've had one since 2012 when I sent it to DAG to have the near helicoid milled down to fit the upcoming M240 (which I assumed would have LV).
The new M10 seems to have more clearance for the near portion of the DR helicoid. So, the DR seems to work fine on the M10 with the exception that there is variation in how far the near helicoid extends. It seems that some of the DR lenses might need a little of the helicoid filed off.
I've had the DR on my M10 for the last week and it is just a wonderful lens. Also, it is nice to shoot into the sun!
The new M10 seems to have more clearance for the near portion of the DR helicoid. So, the DR seems to work fine on the M10 with the exception that there is variation in how far the near helicoid extends. It seems that some of the DR lenses might need a little of the helicoid filed off.
I've had the DR on my M10 for the last week and it is just a wonderful lens. Also, it is nice to shoot into the sun!
raid
Dad Photographer
I have the DR, so all that is left here is to get an M10.
It would have been easier for me to first have an M10, followed by finding a DR!
It would have been easier for me to first have an M10, followed by finding a DR!
maggieo
More Deadly
Interesting! I haven't tried that. What format do you save the flattened version in?
LightBender
Member
You will love the DR and the M10. When you put it on the M10 mount it at the the stop of the distance portion (at the 3'4" mark). Then slowly turn towards infinity. It probably won't bind. If it does then the near helicoid is binding and you will have to file the near portion down just a little. It shouldn't matter much.
My lens doesn't have any portion of the near helicoid. Which is ok. It just means it will never work with the goggles... which is fine for me. I can use the LV for near. And, it will work on the M240.
Good luck.
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Nowhereman
Guest
There was a video on this by a photographer in Hong Kong, but it is no longer on the web. The idea is the same as making a low contrast scan of film for further processing. It makes sense particularly when you want to process a color file into high contrast B&W.
Assuming you're in Lightroom, you simply take a "finished" color DNG or RAW file, i.e., one on which you've set the WB, Exposure and other settings in the LR "Basic Panel" and then apply the Flatten Preset that you've made. My preset has the following values, which I copied from the example in the video:
Contrast -71
Highlights -25
Shadows +37
Blacks +13
I also have the following settings in the HSL panel, but I don' remember whether that is by design or whether those setting happened to be in there when I made the preset:
Hue
-----
Yellow -38
Blue -17
Saturation
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Yellow -29
Blue - 39
Luminance
------------
Yellow -15
I generally apply the Flatten Preset to a DNG color file on which I done a quick basic processing. You don't need to save the flattened file: you simply bring it into the SEFEX plugin.
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Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine
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Nowhereman
Guest
LightBender - Thanks for the kind words.
Yes, I was interested in the Summaron 28 because I saw shots with it taken directly into the sun, particularly some by Ian Watts. I bought it mainly because I thought it would be great for shooting into very bright and contrasty light. Also, I saw that it doesn’t create starbursts, which I dislike although some people love them. With the M10, as the f/5.6 maximum aperture should not be a problem, I’ll try it for street photography at night when I get back to Bangkok in October.
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Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine
maggieo
More Deadly
Shoot. I don't use Lightroom.
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Nowhereman
Guest
You can do the equivalent in Photoshop or other RAW developers. Just make a low contrast, flat image and use it in Silver Efex.
maggieo
More Deadly
If I get an M10, I'll keep that in mind.
One plus of the M9-P is that its RAW files play exceptionally well with Nik Software, both Silver and Color Efex Pro. Oh, and their RAW Presharpener is amazing.
One plus of the M9-P is that its RAW files play exceptionally well with Nik Software, both Silver and Color Efex Pro. Oh, and their RAW Presharpener is amazing.
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Nowhereman
Guest
maggieo - That's the same with the M10 files; but I think that in both cases, particularly for B&W conversions, using a low contrast ("flat") file gives you more scope for B&W particularly when you want a high contrast look.
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Nowhereman
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ptpdprinter
Veteran
If you want a true rangefinder, Leica is the only game in town. With no competition, prices are what the market will bear. Lots of competition for the SL and S. Doubt sales for those models are robust.
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Nowhereman
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Mute-on
Well-known
This is actually a very lovely photo. The circular window in the house behind also picks up the cupboard handle plate. Intentionally or otherwise, very nice 🙂
Leica All Day
Veteran
Nice shots and good information Mitch, thanks for posting.
cheers, michael
cheers, michael
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