Industar-22 question

GeorgesGiralt

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Hi !
I've a Zorki-1 (1955) and a 1951 indsutar-22 lens on it.
The focusing is very soft when the lens is not fitted onto the camera, but very hard and tight when fitted onto it.
I've cleaned the threads and lubed them with very high quality silicon grease to no avail. Any clue ?
(As I had to dismantle the camera to fix an annoying overlapping frames and to clear some (a lot in fact) film debris, I wonder if I've not done any mistake when reassembling ?)
TIA !
 
So,
The focussing lever is not touching the lens body, and the rangefinder cam is moving smoothlu under my thumb. (As far as a thumb can measure a torque accuratelly..)
I'm puzzled !
 
can you take a few close-up photos on a digicam possibly? I'm sure someone might spot something...

It might be that the lens needs a few washers (shims?) so that it doesn't come too close to the body or something silly like that. You'll need to readjust focusing if that's the case.
 
GeorgesGiralt said:
Hi !
I've a Zorki-1 (1955) and a 1951 indsutar-22 lens on it.
The focusing is very soft when the lens is not fitted onto the camera, but very hard and tight when fitted onto it.
I've cleaned the threads and lubed them with very high quality silicon grease to no avail. Any clue ?

Sounds like the focusing ring (this is the ring on the rear of the len that moves in and out as you focus) on the lens is making contact with the camera body.
Mount the lens and set the shutter to B. Open the shutter and look inside to see where the lens focus ring is making contact. It should be touching the cam follower and nothing else.
 
It could also be that the lens mount is warped. The mount can warp for several reasons: the camera body shell itself is warped, or if shimming is not correct.
Be careful with the latter though if you opt to remove the lens mount and examine what's happening behind it. You have to make sure that the lens mount surface maintains the proper 28,8mm seating from the film plane.
 
Hi !
I've removed the lens mount from the camera and when the lens is fitted on it, it focuses smoothly.
So if the mount is warped, it is warped when mounted on the body.
As it is a Zoriki-1, i'm unable to check using the B stetting if the lens focusing hit something into the camera.
A friend of mine will lend me a micrometer gauge, so I'll be able to check if the lens mount is even and at 28.8 mm depth.
Also, A Zorki-3M is on it's way home so I'll can check the I-22 on another body and the I-61 L/D on the Zorki-1 ...
We'll see !
Thanks for your help, Guys !
 
What's the serial number of your Zorki? The earliest ones (5-digit or low six-digit numbers) are often found with rather pliable bodies.

A slight warp on the portion of the body shell where the mount is on will tend to cause problems such as the one you found. This has happened with one of my FED from the late 1940s (many Zorki from this period were more like FED- later Zorki-1 had distinct features different from the FED). Everytime the lens mount flange was attached with all four screws, the lens started to focus rather tightly. Loosening the lower right screw unwarped the mount, and let the lens move freely, but also cost the accuracy of the lens mount placement.

The way this was fixed was by hammering the body back to shape. A set of wooden forms -a block 26.2mm thick went into the body and a wooden cylinder the diameter of the indentation where the lens mount sits, were used.
The body was beaten back to shape using these.

Jay
 
Hi Jay !
My Zorki-1 is a 1955 one (S/N 55165397) and the lens is older (s/n 5141742) so I think the body is not as you describe. But, who knows ?
When I get my Zorki-3M and it's I-61 lens, I cans tell which one is the culprit. the body or the I-22...
 
The flange could have been unevenly torqued when it was mounted on the body. Try this:

Put the flange back on the body and and put on all of the mounting screws loosly.

Mount the lens and see if it operates smoothly. If it does, the flange was warped when it was mounted.

To correct it, remove the lens and tighten each screw in an "X" pattern, tightening them only one half turn at a time.

If your flange to film distance is not set at 28.8mm, you will have to reset that before you torque the screws down. See Jay's website for the best instructions to accomplish that.

-Paul
 
I would think Jay and Paul to be on the track. I've had similar difficulties solved by tightening the four screws evenly. I also chose not to over tighten them... just "very snug." Good luck.
 
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