Jamie123
Veteran
Another vote for the Jobo reels!
kmack
do your job, then let go
I first learned to develop film with steel reels. I have never used anything else (for 35mm). I don't even bother with the expensive reels like Hawes et al. I find the cheap ones work for me just fine.
I do this all the time with my large format. I have a very large tank (2000ml) and I typically use 100ml of developer. The trick is constant agitation. You typically shorten development time about 15%.
If I am only developing one reel in my 500 steel tank I will only use 250ml of developer. Just enough to cover the film and reel. I have never had problems with air bells or uneven development.
Crasis said:
I do this all the time with my large format. I have a very large tank (2000ml) and I typically use 100ml of developer. The trick is constant agitation. You typically shorten development time about 15%.
Crasis said:I could see how not filling the tank would actually be a good thing since you're allowing the developer to homogenize in an area that isn't touching the film itself. Using a 1000mL tank and only filling it with 350 mL though, still seems a little.. steep to me.
I'll have to try filling 350 in a 500 tank next time. Thanks for the infos
If I am only developing one reel in my 500 steel tank I will only use 250ml of developer. Just enough to cover the film and reel. I have never had problems with air bells or uneven development.
kaiyen
local man of mystery
FWIW, I personaly stick with plastic because of the pour rate. With the right reels (I think the "apron" type is what I have, but pictures at link below) the film almost falls on them without a problem. I can even load two 120 rolls end to end without a problem.
http://photos.kaiyen.com/pages/reels_tanks.html (look for the "ones I use")
they are currently available from BH as the Samigon brand. I have 6 of them so I rarely have issues with at least a few of them not being dry.
There is nothing wrong with plastic reels. Really. And 4 of my 6 are close to 15 years old and no chemical-ish-ness to speak of.
allan
http://photos.kaiyen.com/pages/reels_tanks.html (look for the "ones I use")
they are currently available from BH as the Samigon brand. I have 6 of them so I rarely have issues with at least a few of them not being dry.
There is nothing wrong with plastic reels. Really. And 4 of my 6 are close to 15 years old and no chemical-ish-ness to speak of.
allan
BillBingham2
Registered User
I used the plasic apron type twice and found it a pain. The idea is fine, but for me, its stainless steel.
The best way to learn is get two rolls of CHEAP film, well past the date, anything you can trash. Pop them open and use them to load and unload over and over. I find it the best to do when you are watching TV, do not look at what you are doing. You will find you will bend the edges as you learn, cut them back and try again. The trick is keeping a bit of a curve to the film as it goes in.
Don't practice with your eyes closed as you do not keep them closed in the darkroom.
While I have not touched a plastic reel in years, the comments about dry at 100% dead on. Any water anywhere through the reel, or in the spring ball baring thing will kill you. During High School I can not tell you the number of times I had to go in and save some of my friends who were trying to load a wet reel.
When you are loading film and have troubles (bend too many of the edges), take it off the spool and start from the end of the film. Make sure you cut the leader off though.
SS Nikkors are great.
If you drop plastic it cracks, you drop SS, it might bend, but you can bend it back.
Hope this helps.
B2 (;->
The best way to learn is get two rolls of CHEAP film, well past the date, anything you can trash. Pop them open and use them to load and unload over and over. I find it the best to do when you are watching TV, do not look at what you are doing. You will find you will bend the edges as you learn, cut them back and try again. The trick is keeping a bit of a curve to the film as it goes in.
Don't practice with your eyes closed as you do not keep them closed in the darkroom.
While I have not touched a plastic reel in years, the comments about dry at 100% dead on. Any water anywhere through the reel, or in the spring ball baring thing will kill you. During High School I can not tell you the number of times I had to go in and save some of my friends who were trying to load a wet reel.
When you are loading film and have troubles (bend too many of the edges), take it off the spool and start from the end of the film. Make sure you cut the leader off though.
SS Nikkors are great.
If you drop plastic it cracks, you drop SS, it might bend, but you can bend it back.
Hope this helps.
B2 (;->
Max Power
Well-known
Kindermann all the way!!! I've got four 1000ml tanks and a bunch of reels for both 35mm and 120. The 120 reels are sweet; they have system whereby a small tooth grips the end of the film so it won't unwind.
That said, Bill's advice is excellent; it's how I learned to load the Kindermanns. SS reels are difficult to learn to load, but once you get the knack, they are a snap, and the tanks don't crack when you drop them :bang:
Just MHO,
Kent
That said, Bill's advice is excellent; it's how I learned to load the Kindermanns. SS reels are difficult to learn to load, but once you get the knack, they are a snap, and the tanks don't crack when you drop them :bang:
Just MHO,
Kent
w3rk5
Well-known
I just recently switched to stainless steel reel and tank. I got fed up with plastic reels because of it's inconsitancy in loading. Sometimes it's nice and easy, while other times it gets jammed.
I got my reels from *bay. They are made by Hewes, but they were boxed as
Omega Arkay. I found them really easy to load. I nailed it in the first try.
I got my reels from *bay. They are made by Hewes, but they were boxed as
Omega Arkay. I found them really easy to load. I nailed it in the first try.
BillBingham2
Registered User
W3RK5, you are the MAN!! It took me several nights to feel I had it, messed up about 10 rolls total over what I think was almost a thousand (free Tri-X and chemistry helped a lot in High School).
B2 (;->
B2 (;->
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
For years I used a "Bobo" brand tank and reels.
At first the negatives frightened me.
Later on they became quite amusing.
Now they just seem to annoy me...
"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-
At first the negatives frightened me.
Later on they became quite amusing.
Now they just seem to annoy me...
"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-
Abbazz
6x9 and be there!
Gerry M said:
Gerry,
I tried both models for 35mm as well as for 120 film and my conclusion is: Stay away from this crap!
Loading the film is far from being as easy as it seems at first sight. It's also very difficult to retain accurate developping time, because emptying the tank takes a lot of time due to the narrow funnel opening. Worse, the development is very uneven and the negs are stained. Some areas near the film's edge seem to stick to the plastic apron, preventing the developper to work as it should.
Only one positive point: these Chinese made tanks are very cheap, so you can order one to experiment with your Holga negs and then retire it as a flower pot
Cheers,
Abbazz
Abbazz
6x9 and be there!
Stephanie Brim said:
Stephanie,
I have used all kind of tanks for 30 years. After experimenting with many brands (including stainless steel tanks and reels), the combo that works best for me is a Paterson tank with Arista reels (the ones with large tabs). As others have said, avoid Paterson reels, as they are much more difficult to load than other brands.
But developping tanks are like camera bags: not two photographers have the same opinion on them. What works for me will not necessarily work for the guy next door
Cheers,
Abbazz
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
I know people that can use steel reels love them. But I just can't use the darned things; I am steel reel -challenged.
I've never had a single issue with plastic reels, though, as far as handling the film is concerned. Ever. I wash and clean thoroughly after every single use, and will not use again until completely dry. Wet plastic on wet plastic (well, wet film) isn't a combination you want to deal with with your eyes closed.
If you're in a hurry to use the reels, tap and rap them, then thoroughly dry using a hair drier. I almost always let the reels dry on paper, or a metal tray.
I've never had a single issue with plastic reels, though, as far as handling the film is concerned. Ever. I wash and clean thoroughly after every single use, and will not use again until completely dry. Wet plastic on wet plastic (well, wet film) isn't a combination you want to deal with with your eyes closed.
If you're in a hurry to use the reels, tap and rap them, then thoroughly dry using a hair drier. I almost always let the reels dry on paper, or a metal tray.
Gerry M
Gerry
Apron style tanks
Apron style tanks
Thanks for the info Abbazz. I will stay away from them. I don't want my wife to get any ideas for my other photo equiptment.
Gerry
Apron style tanks
Abbazz said:Gerry,
I tried both models for 35mm as well as for 120 film and my conclusion is: Stay away from this crap!
Loading the film is far from being as easy as it seems at first sight. It's also very difficult to retain accurate developping time, because emptying the tank takes a lot of time due to the narrow funnel opening. Worse, the development is very uneven and the negs are stained. Some areas near the film's edge seem to stick to the plastic apron, preventing the developper to work as it should.
Only one positive point: these Chinese made tanks are very cheap, so you can order one to experiment with your Holga negs and then retire it as a flower pot
Cheers,
Abbazz
Thanks for the info Abbazz. I will stay away from them. I don't want my wife to get any ideas for my other photo equiptment.
Gerry
w3rk5
Well-known
Not really Bill.BillBingham2 said:
I think it was the Hewes reels I got. michael.panoff
Established
My hands get all nastey sweaty in the changing bag.. I wear those little cotton white gloves for handling fancy precious things. Box of 12 from b&h is pretty cheap.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
The "trick" with steel reels (of any make) is the curve you put on the film as you load it onto the reel. Once you get it right (practice with waste film without looking at your hands, as suggested), you can feel the right amount of curve every time.
Once you get this right, the reels practically load themselves. I have successfully used Nikor, Kinderman, Omega, etc. I've never used Hewes, but would like to try. If Kinderman or Omega are actually OEMed Hewes, then I have already had the experience.
Once you get this right, the reels practically load themselves. I have successfully used Nikor, Kinderman, Omega, etc. I've never used Hewes, but would like to try. If Kinderman or Omega are actually OEMed Hewes, then I have already had the experience.
peterc
Heretic
I have no-name steel tanks and reels that I've used for the past 30 years. Never had a problem with them and I've always found them much easier to load than the plastic reels.
Peter
Peter
Finder
Veteran
I've used both plastic and steel. They both have their problems. You just have to learn how to use them.
If you want to use steel, I would start with a four (35mm) reel tank - it is easier to process less than the tank capcity, but impossible to process more. Get a solid tank, not one with a soldered bottom. Chemistry can hide in the joint and become a contamination problem - I have only had 10- or 12-reel tanks like this, but there may be a 4-reel version.
If you are buying the reels secondhand, be careful of the condition. A bent reel is useless. (35mm reels are prone to bending, 120 reels are pretty tough.) If the reel is corroded or the inside surfaces are damaged, it can make them hard to load - but you can fix that with some steel wool. The only differences I have found with different brands of reels is the center clip to attach the film, but none are impossible to use.
If you want to use steel, I would start with a four (35mm) reel tank - it is easier to process less than the tank capcity, but impossible to process more. Get a solid tank, not one with a soldered bottom. Chemistry can hide in the joint and become a contamination problem - I have only had 10- or 12-reel tanks like this, but there may be a 4-reel version.
If you are buying the reels secondhand, be careful of the condition. A bent reel is useless. (35mm reels are prone to bending, 120 reels are pretty tough.) If the reel is corroded or the inside surfaces are damaged, it can make them hard to load - but you can fix that with some steel wool. The only differences I have found with different brands of reels is the center clip to attach the film, but none are impossible to use.
amateriat
We're all light!
I think we've gone through this one before, but here goes:
In the 30+ years I've gotten to mess around with developing film, I've worked with just about everything mentioned in this thread (including those funky apron reels...after a handful of atttempts with them years back, I concluded they should be outlawed). I always came back to steel (funny, I've had the same experience with bicycle frames). Quite elemental, and once you get the knack of loading them, you end up doing it with scarcely a thought. Once upon a time, I also thought I'd never get the hang of loading the damn things reliably, but at the time I tended to approach the film-loading process in a honking hurry, and got easily frustrated (easy to do when you're 16).
Whichever reels/tanks you choose, get twice as many identical reels as you think you'll need for a single souping session: you won't be gritting your teeth waiting for reels to dry on those days when you've got a fair amount of film to get through. Finder's advice on steel tanks and inspecting used reels before purchase is solid. While not an absolute necessity, I also find a hanging electric film dryer valuable for both faster drying times and dust-free negs. (Sometimes I've placed reels at the botton of the dryer to dry faster as well, when doing a whopping load of souping in one day.)
- Barrett
In the 30+ years I've gotten to mess around with developing film, I've worked with just about everything mentioned in this thread (including those funky apron reels...after a handful of atttempts with them years back, I concluded they should be outlawed). I always came back to steel (funny, I've had the same experience with bicycle frames). Quite elemental, and once you get the knack of loading them, you end up doing it with scarcely a thought. Once upon a time, I also thought I'd never get the hang of loading the damn things reliably, but at the time I tended to approach the film-loading process in a honking hurry, and got easily frustrated (easy to do when you're 16).
Whichever reels/tanks you choose, get twice as many identical reels as you think you'll need for a single souping session: you won't be gritting your teeth waiting for reels to dry on those days when you've got a fair amount of film to get through. Finder's advice on steel tanks and inspecting used reels before purchase is solid. While not an absolute necessity, I also find a hanging electric film dryer valuable for both faster drying times and dust-free negs. (Sometimes I've placed reels at the botton of the dryer to dry faster as well, when doing a whopping load of souping in one day.)
- Barrett
goo0h
Well-known
Oh boy. Had a big time problem with humidity just now. The humidity outside isn't too bad, but my hands got all hot and sweaty when trying to load a roll onto the Jobo reel I've got. It was dry (haven't actually dev'ed in a while.) But this roll of NP 1600 would just not get on there. In the end I just cut off the roll of the last 5 or so shots. :bang: Mainly I was interested in what was in the beginning of the roll, so I guess this will have to do. (Almost dry now.)ChrisPlatt said:
michael.panoff said:
Hmmmm.... I'll have to give that a try! Perhaps first before buying steel reels to try. Regardless of the reel type, I know sweaty hands (especially in the changing bag) are always going to be a problem for me.....
MikeL
Go Fish
amateriat said:
Barrett, is there any advantage to drying the film on the reels? I've been hanging mine vertically with a clip on the bottom.
Thanks,
Mike