!@#$ing plastic.

[Jamie123]

Another vote for the Jobo reels!

 

[kmack]

I first learned to develop film with steel reels. I have never used anything else (for 35mm). I don't even bother with the expensive reels like Hawes et al. I find the cheap ones work for me just fine.

That's strange and extremely interesting. So there are times when the film is touched by no developer at all right? Does this effect the development times at all? Does this tend to cause more bubbles? Ever had any problems and do you have any warnings about doing this?

I do this all the time with my large format. I have a very large tank (2000ml) and I typically use 100ml of developer. The trick is constant agitation. You typically shorten development time about 15%.

I could see how not filling the tank would actually be a good thing since you're allowing the developer to homogenize in an area that isn't touching the film itself. Using a 1000mL tank and only filling it with 350 mL though, still seems a little.. steep to me.

I'll have to try filling 350 in a 500 tank next time. Thanks for the infos 🙂

If I am only developing one reel in my 500 steel tank I will only use 250ml of developer. Just enough to cover the film and reel. I have never had problems with air bells or uneven development.

 

[kaiyen]

FWIW, I personaly stick with plastic because of the pour rate. With the right reels (I think the "apron" type is what I have, but pictures at link below) the film almost falls on them without a problem. I can even load two 120 rolls end to end without a problem.

http://photos.kaiyen.com/pages/reels_tanks.html (look for the "ones I use")

they are currently available from BH as the Samigon brand. I have 6 of them so I rarely have issues with at least a few of them not being dry.

There is nothing wrong with plastic reels. Really. And 4 of my 6 are close to 15 years old and no chemical-ish-ness to speak of.

allan

 

[BillBingham2]

I used the plasic apron type twice and found it a pain. The idea is fine, but for me, its stainless steel.

The best way to learn is get two rolls of CHEAP film, well past the date, anything you can trash. Pop them open and use them to load and unload over and over. I find it the best to do when you are watching TV, do not look at what you are doing. You will find you will bend the edges as you learn, cut them back and try again. The trick is keeping a bit of a curve to the film as it goes in.

Don't practice with your eyes closed as you do not keep them closed in the darkroom.

While I have not touched a plastic reel in years, the comments about dry at 100% dead on. Any water anywhere through the reel, or in the spring ball baring thing will kill you. During High School I can not tell you the number of times I had to go in and save some of my friends who were trying to load a wet reel.

When you are loading film and have troubles (bend too many of the edges), take it off the spool and start from the end of the film. Make sure you cut the leader off though.

SS Nikkors are great.

If you drop plastic it cracks, you drop SS, it might bend, but you can bend it back.

Hope this helps.

B2 (;->

 

[Max Power]

Kindermann all the way!!! I've got four 1000ml tanks and a bunch of reels for both 35mm and 120. The 120 reels are sweet; they have system whereby a small tooth grips the end of the film so it won't unwind.

That said, Bill's advice is excellent; it's how I learned to load the Kindermanns. SS reels are difficult to learn to load, but once you get the knack, they are a snap, and the tanks don't crack when you drop them :bang:

Just MHO,
Kent

 

[w3rk5]

I just recently switched to stainless steel reel and tank. I got fed up with plastic reels because of it's inconsitancy in loading. Sometimes it's nice and easy, while other times it gets jammed.

I got my reels from *bay. They are made by Hewes, but they were boxed as
Omega Arkay. I found them really easy to load. I nailed it in the first try.

 

[BillBingham2]

W3RK5, you are the MAN!! It took me several nights to feel I had it, messed up about 10 rolls total over what I think was almost a thousand (free Tri-X and chemistry helped a lot in High School).

B2 (;->

 

[ChrisPlatt]

For years I used a "Bobo" brand tank and reels.

At first the negatives frightened me.
Later on they became quite amusing.
Now they just seem to annoy me... 😉

"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-

 

[Abbazz]

Has any one had experience with the Arista apron style tank/reel(?) that Freestyle sells? Page 43 in the Fall 06 catalog.
Gerry

Gerry,

I tried both models for 35mm as well as for 120 film and my conclusion is: Stay away from this crap!

Loading the film is far from being as easy as it seems at first sight. It's also very difficult to retain accurate developping time, because emptying the tank takes a lot of time due to the narrow funnel opening. Worse, the development is very uneven and the negs are stained. Some areas near the film's edge seem to stick to the plastic apron, preventing the developper to work as it should.

Only one positive point: these Chinese made tanks are very cheap, so you can order one to experiment with your Holga negs and then retire it as a flower pot 😀

Cheers,

Abbazz

 

[Abbazz]

I need a stainless tank and reels.

Stephanie,

I have used all kind of tanks for 30 years. After experimenting with many brands (including stainless steel tanks and reels), the combo that works best for me is a Paterson tank with Arista reels (the ones with large tabs). As others have said, avoid Paterson reels, as they are much more difficult to load than other brands.

But developping tanks are like camera bags: not two photographers have the same opinion on them. What works for me will not necessarily work for the guy next door 🙂

Cheers,

Abbazz

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

I know people that can use steel reels love them. But I just can't use the darned things; I am steel reel -challenged.

I've never had a single issue with plastic reels, though, as far as handling the film is concerned. Ever. I wash and clean thoroughly after every single use, and will not use again until completely dry. Wet plastic on wet plastic (well, wet film) isn't a combination you want to deal with with your eyes closed.

If you're in a hurry to use the reels, tap and rap them, then thoroughly dry using a hair drier. I almost always let the reels dry on paper, or a metal tray.

 

[Gerry M]

Apron style tanks

Apron style tanks

Gerry,

I tried both models for 35mm as well as for 120 film and my conclusion is: Stay away from this crap!

Loading the film is far from being as easy as it seems at first sight. It's also very difficult to retain accurate developping time, because emptying the tank takes a lot of time due to the narrow funnel opening. Worse, the development is very uneven and the negs are stained. Some areas near the film's edge seem to stick to the plastic apron, preventing the developper to work as it should.

Only one positive point: these Chinese made tanks are very cheap, so you can order one to experiment with your Holga negs and then retire it as a flower pot 😀

Cheers,

Abbazz

Thanks for the info Abbazz. I will stay away from them. I don't want my wife to get any ideas for my other photo equiptment.
Gerry

 

[w3rk5]

W3RK5, you are the MAN!! It took me several nights to feel I had it, messed up about 10 rolls total over what I think was almost a thousand (free Tri-X and chemistry helped a lot in High School).

B2 (;->

Not really Bill. 😱 I think it was the Hewes reels I got. 🙂

 

[michael.panoff]

My hands get all nastey sweaty in the changing bag.. I wear those little cotton white gloves for handling fancy precious things. Box of 12 from b&h is pretty cheap.

 

[Trius]

The "trick" with steel reels (of any make) is the curve you put on the film as you load it onto the reel. Once you get it right (practice with waste film without looking at your hands, as suggested), you can feel the right amount of curve every time.

Once you get this right, the reels practically load themselves. I have successfully used Nikor, Kinderman, Omega, etc. I've never used Hewes, but would like to try. If Kinderman or Omega are actually OEMed Hewes, then I have already had the experience.

 

[peterc]

I have no-name steel tanks and reels that I've used for the past 30 years. Never had a problem with them and I've always found them much easier to load than the plastic reels.

Peter

 

[Finder]

I've used both plastic and steel. They both have their problems. You just have to learn how to use them.

If you want to use steel, I would start with a four (35mm) reel tank - it is easier to process less than the tank capcity, but impossible to process more. Get a solid tank, not one with a soldered bottom. Chemistry can hide in the joint and become a contamination problem - I have only had 10- or 12-reel tanks like this, but there may be a 4-reel version.

If you are buying the reels secondhand, be careful of the condition. A bent reel is useless. (35mm reels are prone to bending, 120 reels are pretty tough.) If the reel is corroded or the inside surfaces are damaged, it can make them hard to load - but you can fix that with some steel wool. The only differences I have found with different brands of reels is the center clip to attach the film, but none are impossible to use.

 

[amateriat]

I think we've gone through this one before, but here goes:

In the 30+ years I've gotten to mess around with developing film, I've worked with just about everything mentioned in this thread (including those funky apron reels...after a handful of atttempts with them years back, I concluded they should be outlawed). I always came back to steel (funny, I've had the same experience with bicycle frames). Quite elemental, and once you get the knack of loading them, you end up doing it with scarcely a thought. Once upon a time, I also thought I'd never get the hang of loading the damn things reliably, but at the time I tended to approach the film-loading process in a honking hurry, and got easily frustrated (easy to do when you're 16).

Whichever reels/tanks you choose, get twice as many identical reels as you think you'll need for a single souping session: you won't be gritting your teeth waiting for reels to dry on those days when you've got a fair amount of film to get through. Finder's advice on steel tanks and inspecting used reels before purchase is solid. While not an absolute necessity, I also find a hanging electric film dryer valuable for both faster drying times and dust-free negs. (Sometimes I've placed reels at the botton of the dryer to dry faster as well, when doing a whopping load of souping in one day.)


- Barrett

 

[goo0h]

Even the humidity that build up from sweaty
hands in the changing bag can cause jams.

...

I have had Jobo....

Oh boy. Had a big time problem with humidity just now. The humidity outside isn't too bad, but my hands got all hot and sweaty when trying to load a roll onto the Jobo reel I've got. It was dry (haven't actually dev'ed in a while.) But this roll of NP 1600 would just not get on there. In the end I just cut off the roll of the last 5 or so shots. :bang: Mainly I was interested in what was in the beginning of the roll, so I guess this will have to do. (Almost dry now.)

My hands get all nastey sweaty in the changing bag.. I wear those little cotton white gloves for handling fancy precious things. Box of 12 from b&h is pretty cheap.

Hmmmm.... I'll have to give that a try! Perhaps first before buying steel reels to try. Regardless of the reel type, I know sweaty hands (especially in the changing bag) are always going to be a problem for me.....

 

[MikeL]

Whichever reels/tanks you choose, get twice as many identical reels as you think you'll need for a single souping session: you won't be gritting your teeth waiting for reels to dry on those days when you've got a fair amount of film to get through.


- Barrett

Barrett, is there any advantage to drying the film on the reels? I've been hanging mine vertically with a clip on the bottom.
Thanks,
Mike