Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Copy that! I use the MR-4 when I want a meter on my M2 or M3. If I want the meter inside, I use M6/M7/MP models.
It's a big deal to put a meter in it, but easy to put one on it.
Installing a meter in an M3?
- Thread starter adamjohari
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Copy that! I use the MR-4 when I want a meter on my M2 or M3. If I want the meter inside, I use M6/M7/MP models.
It's a big deal to put a meter in it, but easy to put one on it.
drec
Rangeflounder
I bought a Black Cat Exposure Guide and go by that. It's good enough for b&w
f16sunshine
Moderator
Get an old boot and use it to smack some sense into your head! Silly young fella!
Sincerely
Grumpy old LeicaMan
Really though. Try an M5 or M6. I'm loving the M5 and it's "spot" meter. The second best 50mm VF from Leica and not too far behind the M3 one imo. Some say it's ugly. The old LeicaMan hands them the boot also. 😀
Cheers!
Sincerely
Grumpy old LeicaMan
Really though. Try an M5 or M6. I'm loving the M5 and it's "spot" meter. The second best 50mm VF from Leica and not too far behind the M3 one imo. Some say it's ugly. The old LeicaMan hands them the boot also. 😀
Cheers!
Bill58
Native Texan
I use an vintage Gossen Luna-Pro that was CLA'd by Quality Light Metric Co. It was off by one stop over the entire range before they re-calibrated it.
QUALITY LIGHT METRIC CO.
7095 Hollywood Blvd. #550, Hollywood, CA 90028
Phone: 323-467-2265
georgepmilton at worldnet dot att dot net
QUALITY LIGHT METRIC CO.
7095 Hollywood Blvd. #550, Hollywood, CA 90028
Phone: 323-467-2265
georgepmilton at worldnet dot att dot net
Last edited:
damonsong
Established
even if it is possible, the cost must be pretty high
umcelinho
Marcelo
ditto on sunny 16. i used to shoot with an M6 but would constantly fiddle with speed and aperture to get the "proper" exposure the meter would indicate. I started shooting with TLRs that had no meter and began to try and use sunny 16. after a while I could meter by eye fairly well, but still I would check exposure with a meter. then I got an M3 and shot 2 rolls completely metering by eye. zero missed shots due to bad exposure. it helped with confidence.
nowadays i shoot with an M4, only meter by eye. try to practice sunny 16 and pay attention to the aperture/speed combinations you are using in each light situation, most of them will be extremely frequent, and the new ones you will run into can be estimated using your previously metered references. it will be very rewarding and it's not such a big deal: film can take over/underexposure very well. i've once exposed the last 3 frames of a roll as 800 (what i usually shoot with), when i took the film out it was an 100 iso film. surprisingly, the shots were very useable after a scan. film lattitud is VERY forgiving.
ps: the iphone meter app is pretty good, i have it too, but i end up hardly using it as i got used to metering by eye anyway.
nowadays i shoot with an M4, only meter by eye. try to practice sunny 16 and pay attention to the aperture/speed combinations you are using in each light situation, most of them will be extremely frequent, and the new ones you will run into can be estimated using your previously metered references. it will be very rewarding and it's not such a big deal: film can take over/underexposure very well. i've once exposed the last 3 frames of a roll as 800 (what i usually shoot with), when i took the film out it was an 100 iso film. surprisingly, the shots were very useable after a scan. film lattitud is VERY forgiving.
ps: the iphone meter app is pretty good, i have it too, but i end up hardly using it as i got used to metering by eye anyway.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
If you want a combination of the M3 build and look with the metering of a M6 just get a M6J. I'd love one but it will set you back about $7K and its sold as a kit with a special edition 50/2.8 Elmar and a case.
Not sure if modding/upgrading a M3 is more expensive than above.
Next expensive option is a a la carte MP with a 0.85 finder. Expect to pay over $5K. Even used MP's with 0.85 finders remain expensive and are hard to find.
Just last week I bought a mint M6 HM (a M6 Classic with 0.85 VF'er- only 3130 made) from a RFF sponsor. When I got the package and opened it up it was like getting a new camera that just left the factory. Came with cap, case, box, and strap for well under $2K. Basically its just like a brand new camera, just be aware that eventually I will get a MP finder upgrade from Sherry performed for about $320.00 because the rangefinder patch is especially prone to flare. It will be likely that I will use the M6 HM for a long time as is for a while.
Chris is right a M6 HM is a great-great camera.
Cal
Not sure if modding/upgrading a M3 is more expensive than above.
Next expensive option is a a la carte MP with a 0.85 finder. Expect to pay over $5K. Even used MP's with 0.85 finders remain expensive and are hard to find.
Just last week I bought a mint M6 HM (a M6 Classic with 0.85 VF'er- only 3130 made) from a RFF sponsor. When I got the package and opened it up it was like getting a new camera that just left the factory. Came with cap, case, box, and strap for well under $2K. Basically its just like a brand new camera, just be aware that eventually I will get a MP finder upgrade from Sherry performed for about $320.00 because the rangefinder patch is especially prone to flare. It will be likely that I will use the M6 HM for a long time as is for a while.
Chris is right a M6 HM is a great-great camera.
Cal
tonal1
Established
If you want to add electronics to a M3, add a LED system inside the mount for "concurrent photomic amplification" to get more speed out of you film in low light. Believe it or not, but there used to be a company that did modifications like this.
🙂
🙂
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