Bill Pierce
Well-known
I’ve been asked to explain ISO invariance, essentially, “What is it?” At its simplest level it’s when the film speed settings on a digital camera are relatively meaningless in that underexposing at the base ISO setting of a camera and brightening the underexposed image in a processing program like Lightroom or Photoshop doesn’t produce a significant difference from exposing the image at a higher ISO and not brightening it in the processing program. That means no significant difference in shadow detail or noise level. In other words, ISO settings on the camera become relatively meaningless.
Some camera sensors do this; others don’t. The recent Fujis are ISO invariant. I’m told that the Sony A7RII, the Nikon D810 and D750 are. I’m sure there are other cameras that fall into the invariant category. It’s certainly easy to run a test on your camera to find out. And it’s worthwhile. Why? Because the big exposure problem with digital is blowing out the highlights. Once those highlights are overexposed, they are gone forever. Underexposing to make sure that doesn’t happen and brightening in “post production” can eliminate that problem. You would have to shoot raw; it’s not going to work with jpegs. You may have to change your camera set up to maintain viewfinder brightness. But it is definitely a technique worth exploring.
The mantra used to be “expose to the right.” It meant make sure your histogram moved fully to the right. In the early days of digital, this minimized noise which could be a real problem. I think we’re moving into the “expose to the left” period if your camera sensor is ISO invariant. There’s much to be explored here. Your thoughts?
Some camera sensors do this; others don’t. The recent Fujis are ISO invariant. I’m told that the Sony A7RII, the Nikon D810 and D750 are. I’m sure there are other cameras that fall into the invariant category. It’s certainly easy to run a test on your camera to find out. And it’s worthwhile. Why? Because the big exposure problem with digital is blowing out the highlights. Once those highlights are overexposed, they are gone forever. Underexposing to make sure that doesn’t happen and brightening in “post production” can eliminate that problem. You would have to shoot raw; it’s not going to work with jpegs. You may have to change your camera set up to maintain viewfinder brightness. But it is definitely a technique worth exploring.
The mantra used to be “expose to the right.” It meant make sure your histogram moved fully to the right. In the early days of digital, this minimized noise which could be a real problem. I think we’re moving into the “expose to the left” period if your camera sensor is ISO invariant. There’s much to be explored here. Your thoughts?