Is it worth keeping Non-Ai Nikon lenses unmolested?

MacReady

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I have four, 35 2.8, 50 1.4, 135 2.8 and a 200 4.

They aren't particularly mint, bar the 135mm but it's the weaker 4 element version anyway.

I'm just wondering whether to file them and use them or if people actually want original lenses like that.


Cheers
 
I can't really say what they are "worth" in monetary terms, perhaps not much, but I personally prefer using my Nikon F with the lenses that were original. In that case of course "worth" is defined more on personal bias than a market value.

A quick check of selling prices for sold items on ebay would give you a better idea of what the actual market value of these lenses may be.

Of course I own only one Nikon camera, the original F, so my personal bias is a little different than a true Nikon aficionado might be.
 
I'd say, it you want to convert them to AI, seek out the correct AI aperture ring for each lens and do the conversion properly.
 
Pretty soon you'll be using them on a Sony A7 series camera or the new Nikon mirrorless or a Leica SL with an adapter, so why go the extra trouble and expenses to have them converted at all?
 
Tried a 35 2.0 non-Ai on the FTZ adapter on a Z7. It will mount but no auto aperture. In the user manual, Nikon states non-Ai are not compatible. Get a Df, flip up the Ai lever, enter the lens info and use those lenses.
 
There must be over 100,000 non-Ai lenses still around, and the market prices for most Nikkor lenses are not going up. If you need to Ai some lenses, I would just do it and not worry about a possible sudden great increase in resale value of non-Ai lenses.
 
I'm on the same page as Raid on this one. Even though I have a Df, I still AI'd all my non-AI glass, that way I can use them on my D700 as well. It may have decreased the value of the lenses, (20mm f3.5, 35mm f2, 50mm f1.4, 105mm f2.5) but I don't care, I'm much more interested in using them than selling them.

Best,
-Tim
 
Most Nikkor glass is so common and readily available on the market that I could not see an AI conversion as being particularly deleterious to its price. In fact usually the opposite - non AI lenses (at least the common focal lengths and speeds) always seem to attract considerably less $ on eBay etc.

There may be a few rarities where AI conversion might be damaging to price but even then only if they are in top notch (collector) condition. Even here many were factory converted back in the day by swapping out the base ring for the new AI compliant one. And I would not really expect them to attract less $ given their factory "fresh" state.

Just one appeal. Please - please make sure you know your way around hand tools before tackling the task yourself. It is by no means a difficult job. As working on lenses go it is easy - in fact the lens disassembly and reassembly is sometimes more tricky than actually cutting the AI notch so long as you know how to measure, mark up the cut then execute it. I find it a bit distressing when a rough job is done because someone does not know how to use a needle file to neatly cut the required notch in the lens. An AI conversion like that likely would attract less money when sold.

Having said that, the above is only relevant if you propose to use the lenses on certain Nikon bodies. If for example you propose to use them with adapter on a mirrorless camera, save yourself the time and trouble. And have the pleasure of knowing the lens is still in original condition when you pass it on.
 
I have two Ai'ed lenses, the Nikkor-H 2.8cm f/3.5 & Nikkor-P 10.5cm f/2.5 - the former was factory Ai'ed before I purchased it and the latter I had Ai'ed at Kiitos in Shinagawa Tokyo. Both get used regularly on a Nikon F3P.

Another vote to use - either in the current condition or after being Ai'ed.
 
I'd say, it you want to convert them to AI, seek out the correct AI aperture ring for each lens and do the conversion properly.

i'd say good luck. the AI conversion rings are very difficult to find now.

another option is to buy a user copy of the same lens (with correct aperture conversion ring) for cheap and steal the conversion ring from it.
 
Non-AI Nikkor lenses work fine on my Nikon F2.
DP-1 shows selected aperture in the finder - even with non-AI lenses. :)

Chris
 
I think I got the answer I wanted to hear(!), thanks.

If I can get this ebay seller to ship a $4 part internationally then they shall remain OG and on my F, otherwise I will have to whip out the files (guilt free) so that they fit on my FA.

Cheers
 
Find out what lens versions you have.
Most are very common, some are very rare and expensive.
Don't modify the rare ones.
 
Find out what lens versions you have.
Most are very common, some are very rare and expensive.
Don't modify the rare ones.

which ones are rare?

Suppose all these are common
I had non AI

135/2.8
85/1.8
200/4.0
50/1.4
55mm/2.8
105mm/2.5

80-200/4.0 AI
180mm ED 2.8 AF

still have:
24/2.8 non AI (converted)

35/2.0 non AI (filed)
50/1.8 AI
105/2.5 AI
60/2.8
180mm/2.8 nikkor P converted to AI
 
I have very few Nikkor lenses. Among the non-AI is a 2.1cm 4.0-O.

s-l1600.jpg
 
I am pretty sure you can't molest an inanimate object :)

The lenses you have are very common, so no worries if you AI them.

Besides, isn't an AI'd lens an improvement? Shouldn't a converted lens be fully functional on newer bodies and the older bodies too as long as you save the prong?
 
Most Nikkor glass is so common and readily available on the market that I could not see an AI conversion as being particularly deleterious to its price. In fact usually the opposite - non AI lenses (at least the common focal lengths and speeds) always seem to attract considerably less $ on eBay etc.

I agree. Whenever I'm on the auction site I look for AI or AI'd versions of a Nikkor AI ones are harder to find and higher priced. I have no interest in non-AI versions.
 
I will reiterate what Peter M said above. Do the modification but just don't butcher it. I've seen some HORRIBLE cuts by ham-fisted Nikkor owners who essentially ruined their lenses by using crappy tools and not measuring properly. Once you cut too much, you can't add metal back to that ring. I think the last one I saw a botch job on was done with a rat-tail wood rasp instead of a good sharp file.
I think the "best" hack I saw was on a lens some guy posted to craigslist in NYC. It was a 28mm f/2 that he had "Ai'd" but he didn't post a photo of the buggered up ring. In his impatience, he performed with daring ineptitude, a file job of the ring WITH IT STILL ON THE LENS. The flange was scarred and I doubt the Ai cut was even close. All that metal had begin to creep into the helicoid and it could be felt just about infinity. That was a waste of subway fare, time and a great lens.

Phil Forrest
 
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