eleskin
Well-known
I have used Leica M cameras since 1990 and am an M8 user. I bought into the X-Pro because I felt the Image quality as well as the camera layout and design were so close to Leica that buying an M 240 did not make economic sense to me. I can say in many ways, especially in higher ISO the Fuji blows away my M8. In fact, I am now using the X-Pro 1 more than my Leica. There is one thing that bothers me. Shutter lag! For some reason I feel my M8 reacts much faster for the decisive moment. With the Fuji, sometimes what I see in terms of the decisive moment is not captured by the camera. So my question is what is the best setting for this camera for decisive moment photography? Sometimes I feel Fuji should make a real rangefinder version of this camera for this reason. Any thoughts and comments are very welcome!
stompyq
Well-known
Was one of the reasons I got rid of the Fuji XE-1. However now in hindsight I think I was too hasty. Give it time and keep shooting. The more you gel with it the better you will get.
f16sunshine
Moderator
Focus manually using the afl button then leave focus there until the "DM" and shoot!
This method eliminates shutter lag completly. Well, Actually it's not shutter lag one experiences but rather af lag.
This method eliminates shutter lag completly. Well, Actually it's not shutter lag one experiences but rather af lag.
Are using m lenses or fuji lenses?
semilog
curmudgeonly optimist
If the shutter is first half-pressed, there is no lag.
14. Basketball at Roberto Clemente Park, Miami by Semilog, on Flickr
14. Basketball at Roberto Clemente Park, Miami by Semilog, on Flickr
willie_901
Veteran
With the X-Pro 1 and other Fuji X cameras, the shutter lag can vary between long, normal or unnoticeable, The delay depends on how you have menu options configured, the AF method you use, the contrast of the AF target or if you use manual focusing.
I can attest to the fact that it is possible to experience no shutter delay with the X-Pro 1.
I can attest to the fact that it is possible to experience no shutter delay with the X-Pro 1.
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
My experience of the X-Pro 1 tallies with Andy and Willie 901's. I came from M6 to M8 to M9 and onto the X-Pro (via a quick OMD diversion) and I've never been happier with a small digital than I am with the XP1.
I think the biggest problem with Fuji cameras (I also have the X100) is simply getting the (myriad) settings to work for your style. They can be a little mind boggling but I found trawling the net and looking for suggested settings from photographers who work in a similar fashion to me helped a lot as a starting point.
I usually shoot in MF and use the AFL button as a snap focus and this has never let me down, though I do use AF from time to time and so long as you know how the AF 'sees' you shouldn't have any great hunting issues.
Stick with it and you should find a set-up that works perfectly for you, at least I hope you do.
I think the biggest problem with Fuji cameras (I also have the X100) is simply getting the (myriad) settings to work for your style. They can be a little mind boggling but I found trawling the net and looking for suggested settings from photographers who work in a similar fashion to me helped a lot as a starting point.
I usually shoot in MF and use the AFL button as a snap focus and this has never let me down, though I do use AF from time to time and so long as you know how the AF 'sees' you shouldn't have any great hunting issues.
Stick with it and you should find a set-up that works perfectly for you, at least I hope you do.
OurManInTangier
An Undesirable
http://www.kevinmullinsphotography.co.uk/fujifilm-x-pro-1/x-pro1-best-settings.html
I found this guys website quite useful as a starting point, perhaps it will help you.
I found this guys website quite useful as a starting point, perhaps it will help you.
gavinlg
Veteran
Okay so lets dissect this. There are two types of lag. Shutter lag, and Autofocus lag. Once the camera has already focussed on something, there is no shutter lag. If the camera has not achieved focus and you mash the shutter down, it needs to focus first, hence AF lag.
You have to change the way you shoot from a mechanical camera (and that goes for any autofocus camera). Focus first, and then choose your moment (whilst holding the shutter). Dont wait for the moment and try and make the camera do everything in a split second.
You have to change the way you shoot from a mechanical camera (and that goes for any autofocus camera). Focus first, and then choose your moment (whilst holding the shutter). Dont wait for the moment and try and make the camera do everything in a split second.
cidereye
Film Freak
Also depends what lens you are using if using the Fuji X lenses too. For instance the 35mm is waaay slower than the 18mm, I find using the 35mm for street hard work at times unless you use it in MF and use the rear pre focus button and then shoot the camera in a pseudo zone focus.
Because of this I find it just too hard to totally give up using an M6 for street stuff.
Because of this I find it just too hard to totally give up using an M6 for street stuff.
GaryLH
Veteran
I agree w/ everything that has been said so far. I would like to attack this in a different way though
I for one cannot focus a rf camera faster the the xp1 can af focus.. Others i am sure much faster than i. If I acquire a new subject in to focus on w/ a manual focus camera, it will take me longer to focus then the af mechanism of the xp1. The shutter lag of either camera at that point is about the same...
The af technology in the xp1 or xe1 is about a generation behind right now as compared to what is available on the x100s.
I might be wrong, but it seems to me w/ the latest firmware upgrade, the cameras sensitivity issues related to horizontal vs vertical lives have disappeared. The main thing is still finding contrasty subjects to focus on. The problem still becomes one of available light where contrast is lower as light gets lower (af focus speed will decrease or may hunt). Again, compared to before, the latest firmware has made this a lot better.
The size of your af target box matters. Try changing it around to c what works best for u.
The fastest lens for af focus lock that I own is the 18-55 zoom. The slowest is the 60 macro. W/ the latest firmware I find all the other lenses in-between to be acceptable. The af motor on the zoom is different then the other lenses, not only is it quieter, but it seems to be more powerful.
Techniques from the rf world like pre focus to a spot and wait for the subject to get there can be emulated w/ the technique of manual focus and afl button as mentioned above or simply by using the focus wheel and manually focusing based on the focus scale in the viewfinder.
Anything closer then about arms length, for the xp1, u are better off to switch to evf mode for more accurate focus since the issue of parallex will come into play.
Good luck
Gary
I for one cannot focus a rf camera faster the the xp1 can af focus.. Others i am sure much faster than i. If I acquire a new subject in to focus on w/ a manual focus camera, it will take me longer to focus then the af mechanism of the xp1. The shutter lag of either camera at that point is about the same...
The af technology in the xp1 or xe1 is about a generation behind right now as compared to what is available on the x100s.
I might be wrong, but it seems to me w/ the latest firmware upgrade, the cameras sensitivity issues related to horizontal vs vertical lives have disappeared. The main thing is still finding contrasty subjects to focus on. The problem still becomes one of available light where contrast is lower as light gets lower (af focus speed will decrease or may hunt). Again, compared to before, the latest firmware has made this a lot better.
The size of your af target box matters. Try changing it around to c what works best for u.
The fastest lens for af focus lock that I own is the 18-55 zoom. The slowest is the 60 macro. W/ the latest firmware I find all the other lenses in-between to be acceptable. The af motor on the zoom is different then the other lenses, not only is it quieter, but it seems to be more powerful.
Techniques from the rf world like pre focus to a spot and wait for the subject to get there can be emulated w/ the technique of manual focus and afl button as mentioned above or simply by using the focus wheel and manually focusing based on the focus scale in the viewfinder.
Anything closer then about arms length, for the xp1, u are better off to switch to evf mode for more accurate focus since the issue of parallex will come into play.
Good luck
Gary