Krosya
Konicaze
Good point - I wonder why so many of these lenses are being re-sold so quickly? Makes you wonder...
gliderbee
Well-known
First one is a little low on feedback, but the second one is very good: I bought several things from HKBNS before. Always prompt shipping and I never had any trouble with customs.
It is currently discontinued, as is the 1.5. The Heliar is a limited production lens.
The lens is physically big and heavy.
If you need the speed, it is well worth it.
When this lens is discontinued, it is going to shoot up in price. It is less than the 50 year old Canon 50/0.95 and is much sharper and lighter. The Noctilux 50/1/0 is 5x as much money, and the Leica 50/0.95 is 10x as much.
If you need the speed, it is well worth it.
When this lens is discontinued, it is going to shoot up in price. It is less than the 50 year old Canon 50/0.95 and is much sharper and lighter. The Noctilux 50/1/0 is 5x as much money, and the Leica 50/0.95 is 10x as much.
Thardy
Veteran
$800 could be really cheap then.
250swb
Well-known
The F1.1 is a great lens. As good as or better than the previous Noctilux for sharpness across its aperture range, and it isn't nearly as cumbersome in weight or intrusive size in the rangefinder window as some people who never used one would suggest. Its all down to rendering, and if you like the Noctilux F1.0 more then get that, but if you like an edgier contrast in the OOF areas get the Nokton (although we all know the contrast can be adjusted in post processing, so lets not be so anal about it).
Steve
Steve
raid
Dad Photographer
If you have cash to spend and if you want to try it out, then I would say that you should enjoy such a lens. I live in Florida, and I do not hang out in dark places as I am mainly with my family. A 50/1.4-1.5-2.0 will do.
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P. Lynn Miller
Well-known
I own and use both the Nokton 50/1.5 and Nokton 50/1.1... maybe I have an exceptional sample of the Nokton 50/1.1 since it seems to whip the Nokton 50/1.5 at all apertures, or maybe I have bad copy of the Nokton 50/1.5. Either lens will deliver a high-resolution image of good contrast. If you are shooting film or digital, choice of film/developer or method of post-processing will allow you to control contrast.
I only prefer my Nokton 50/1.5 since I modified to focus to 0.7m, prior to that it sat on the shelf untouched while I used the Nokton 50/1.1 as my primary 50mm lens. As stated before, if I am able to modify the Nokton 50/1.1 to focus t0 0.7m, I will not need my Nokton 50/1.5.
If I am feeling weak and wimpy, I use the Nokton 50/1.5 with Efke 50 or Pan F, when I am feeling my normal manly self, I use the Nokton 50/1.1 with Efke 25.
With either it is still up to you to make a worthwhile photograph, neither lens is magical.
I only prefer my Nokton 50/1.5 since I modified to focus to 0.7m, prior to that it sat on the shelf untouched while I used the Nokton 50/1.1 as my primary 50mm lens. As stated before, if I am able to modify the Nokton 50/1.1 to focus t0 0.7m, I will not need my Nokton 50/1.5.
If I am feeling weak and wimpy, I use the Nokton 50/1.5 with Efke 50 or Pan F, when I am feeling my normal manly self, I use the Nokton 50/1.1 with Efke 25.
With either it is still up to you to make a worthwhile photograph, neither lens is magical.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
its a FAB lens really...No Issues or complaints...and YES its Worth It
Beautifully sharp with a soft Glow
but it simply was not for Me
In Truth I don't think I gave it enough Chance
and my New Choice of Film with my usual developer did not Please Me
The 1.1 is certainly Not Heavy or a strain to carry...its more fat & short
Far easier than the 75 lux or 35 1.2 nok
Easy to focus
All in All I don't think it will Disappoint
its just Me....
Beautifully sharp with a soft Glow
but it simply was not for Me
In Truth I don't think I gave it enough Chance
and my New Choice of Film with my usual developer did not Please Me
The 1.1 is certainly Not Heavy or a strain to carry...its more fat & short
Far easier than the 75 lux or 35 1.2 nok
Easy to focus
All in All I don't think it will Disappoint
its just Me....
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back alley
IMAGES
used on the panasonic g1 the 1.1 is incredibly easy to focus and proves it is sharp. on the rd1s it was hit or miss (the camera's fault i believe) and on the rd1 it seems ok but i am still needing practice with it.
i would keep it just for the g1...a 100mm 1.1 lens? terrific!
i would keep it just for the g1...a 100mm 1.1 lens? terrific!
P. Lynn Miller
Well-known
Helen,
I was stunned to see your Nokton 50/1.1 in the classifieds! Sorry that you and the Nokton did not mesh.
To be honest, I am getting less and less enthused about the lens on the front of the camera and more intrigued with the scene in front of the camera. All I really want anymore is a lens that does what I want it to, allow me to shoot in no/low-light, have a wide selection of DOF, focus close, deliver high-resolution negatives at all apertures with medium contrast, and be extremely flare resistant. The Nokton 50/1.1 fills each of those criteria except focus-close, so it is a lens that works most of the time for me.
I was stunned to see your Nokton 50/1.1 in the classifieds! Sorry that you and the Nokton did not mesh.
To be honest, I am getting less and less enthused about the lens on the front of the camera and more intrigued with the scene in front of the camera. All I really want anymore is a lens that does what I want it to, allow me to shoot in no/low-light, have a wide selection of DOF, focus close, deliver high-resolution negatives at all apertures with medium contrast, and be extremely flare resistant. The Nokton 50/1.1 fills each of those criteria except focus-close, so it is a lens that works most of the time for me.
raid
Dad Photographer
Has Helen discussed why she is selling her 1.1 lens?
I am using most often a max aperture of 1.4/1.5.
I am using most often a max aperture of 1.4/1.5.
Vickko
Veteran
I know it's like pouring gas on a fire, but with the crop factor on a GF1, it is 100mm f2.2. Maybe that is why you are finding the focus on the GF1, and it was harder on the RD1.
But no matter, I want to try the 50/1.1. Almost ready to pull the trigger at S.Gandy's store.
Vick
But no matter, I want to try the 50/1.1. Almost ready to pull the trigger at S.Gandy's store.
Vick
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back alley
IMAGES
what filter factor?
back alley
IMAGES
on the g1, focus is manual and on the eyes...
Vickko
Veteran
..crop factor
Regardless, I think you've mastered the lens. Good work
Vick
Regardless, I think you've mastered the lens. Good work
Vick
back alley
IMAGES
the largest f stop changes because of the crop factor?
really?
really?
Vickko
Veteran
The effective DOF changes. Took a while for me to understand it.
The lens will have a light gathering power of an f1.1, but a DOF equivalent of f2.2
Here are a couple links:
http://community.the-digital-picture.com/forums/t/1212.aspx
http://dpanswers.com/content/tech_crop.php
...Vick
The lens will have a light gathering power of an f1.1, but a DOF equivalent of f2.2
Here are a couple links:
http://community.the-digital-picture.com/forums/t/1212.aspx
http://dpanswers.com/content/tech_crop.php
...Vick
raid
Dad Photographer
Vick,
This makes sense.
It is the combination of effective focal length and DOF that stays constant. If you change one, the other changes with it. Is it this what is happening?
This makes sense.
It is the combination of effective focal length and DOF that stays constant. If you change one, the other changes with it. Is it this what is happening?
cmogi10
Bodhisattva
I am pretty sure the amount of DOF is directly related to sensor (negative) size. That is why itty bitty sensored point and shoot shots are usually obvious because of the extra DOF.