ampguy
Veteran
I haven't developed my own film for over 20 years, so am just starting to put the stuff together for developing b/w negatives again. I have some tanks and reels, thermometer, and have the following in my cart at freestylephoto so far:
neopan import film, d76 developer, kodak fixer, couple of gallon jugs (do these need to be light tight or can I reuse milk or OJ containers?). Anything else to get b/w negatives to scan?
neopan import film, d76 developer, kodak fixer, couple of gallon jugs (do these need to be light tight or can I reuse milk or OJ containers?). Anything else to get b/w negatives to scan?
pesphoto
Veteran
You might want to get some photo-flo to keep your negs from having water spots when they dry.
Matt(1pt4)
Established
Smaller bottles are nicer than the big gallon jugs, easier to pour from and oxygen sensitive chemicals stay fresh longer with less surface area exposed. I use a couple of 1 liter soda bottles for diafine and 10 .5 liter nalgene bottles for things like xtol. The latter are great because they hold enough (600ml filled to the tippy top) to fill a 2 reel tank. Found them on clearance at the local camping store one day. The clerk thought I was nuts for buying so many.
Vessels to measure with are nice, but pyrex kitchen stuff is fine for course work. Get a baby medicine syringe for measuring smaller volumes. Just don't reuse the stuff for anything else!
Vessels to measure with are nice, but pyrex kitchen stuff is fine for course work. Get a baby medicine syringe for measuring smaller volumes. Just don't reuse the stuff for anything else!
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I keep the D-76 in an old brown glass bottle (one gallon)
The Fixer is kept in an "Arizona Tea" gallon jug...no matter what container I use I store all of my chemicals in a dark closet...
(I find that the "Arizona Tea" bottles are much thicker than most other plastic one gallon jugs...)
Neg sleeves to store and protect your treasures...
kxl
Social Documentary
ampguy
Veteran
Thanks all, it seems I've got everything I need now.
R
ruben
Guest
you may need also a device to hang the film from and a heavy clip to secure the film dryes flat.
Remember that the space where you hang the negs should not be molested by you walking there and making dust, nor opened to air currents dusting the neg drying.
A small and good scissors to cut the begining and end of the film, and a canister opener, both with some thick and short strap to hang from your right hand, before loading the film reel.
Has anyone mentioned a special contdawnd digital clock to mark the total dev time up to zero ? And a cheap aditional Casio black wrist clock, sounding a repeating alarm for agitation time, can be nice too.
If you want to further invest, a digital thermometer will be nice, not instead of the analog one for the liquids, but for metering the room temperature.
Personally, without wanting to open WWIII here, I don't use any Photophlo type of dryer. I dry in flowing water for half an hour, and then carefully dry the hanged neg with 2 baby sponges, that have been stored and thus further softened for some time immersed in water.
Before using them I will squeeze them time and againg, and the same after use.
Last thing about the concept of darkness. Absolute darkness is very hard to achieve, and unnecessary. But absolute darkness metered by your eye during the first 30 seconds after closing lights - will be enough. The same principles of camera exposure apply here too. thus 30 seconds darkness is more than enough.
Cheers,
Ruben
Remember that the space where you hang the negs should not be molested by you walking there and making dust, nor opened to air currents dusting the neg drying.
A small and good scissors to cut the begining and end of the film, and a canister opener, both with some thick and short strap to hang from your right hand, before loading the film reel.
Has anyone mentioned a special contdawnd digital clock to mark the total dev time up to zero ? And a cheap aditional Casio black wrist clock, sounding a repeating alarm for agitation time, can be nice too.
If you want to further invest, a digital thermometer will be nice, not instead of the analog one for the liquids, but for metering the room temperature.
Personally, without wanting to open WWIII here, I don't use any Photophlo type of dryer. I dry in flowing water for half an hour, and then carefully dry the hanged neg with 2 baby sponges, that have been stored and thus further softened for some time immersed in water.
Before using them I will squeeze them time and againg, and the same after use.
Last thing about the concept of darkness. Absolute darkness is very hard to achieve, and unnecessary. But absolute darkness metered by your eye during the first 30 seconds after closing lights - will be enough. The same principles of camera exposure apply here too. thus 30 seconds darkness is more than enough.
Cheers,
Ruben
Last edited by a moderator:
MikeL
Go Fish
Hey Ted, I can't wait to here how your Hexar AF black and white film scans compare to your Fuji point and shoots.
And a pants hanger works well for holding two strips for me.
P.S. I'm in a good mood after watching the Giants beat They-Who-Shall-Not-be-Named at the Park, so if you need stuff I have some extra gear.
And a pants hanger works well for holding two strips for me.
P.S. I'm in a good mood after watching the Giants beat They-Who-Shall-Not-be-Named at the Park, so if you need stuff I have some extra gear.
Last edited:
ampguy
Veteran
Thanks Ruben and Mike -
@Ruben - I have a kitchen LCD count-down Sunbeam digital timer for the developing times, and we have a few digital room thermometers. I will use very good water with low minerals, TDS, and ionization, but if that causes any issues, then I'll go with medium hard water, it's just bypassing some conditioners. I'm sure I'll find some good medium with the water, and I realize different folks have their favorites here.
@Mike - huh? I'm not a big Dodgers fan, I like the A's and Mariners, but am watching the Olympics. I've got 283 b/w photos from a p&s fuji that I'll post soon, they're getting batch fixed right now with Picasa, They're very artsy, I underexposed by at least a stop and am extending the contrast right now. I think you'll love them!
@Ruben - I have a kitchen LCD count-down Sunbeam digital timer for the developing times, and we have a few digital room thermometers. I will use very good water with low minerals, TDS, and ionization, but if that causes any issues, then I'll go with medium hard water, it's just bypassing some conditioners. I'm sure I'll find some good medium with the water, and I realize different folks have their favorites here.
@Mike - huh? I'm not a big Dodgers fan, I like the A's and Mariners, but am watching the Olympics. I've got 283 b/w photos from a p&s fuji that I'll post soon, they're getting batch fixed right now with Picasa
, They're very artsy, I underexposed by at least a stop and am extending the contrast right now. I think you'll love them!Roger Hicks
Veteran
I didn't see any mention yet of graduates for diluting chemicals to the right strength. You may care to read http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photoschool/ps how process 35-120.html where, as well as the basic information, you will find various tricks such as diagonal drying, the Ilford washing sequence, etc. There are related modules on choosing and loading dev tanks and more.
Cheers,
Roger
Cheers,
Roger
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Sounds about right, you'll need some Edwal LFN to avoid drying marks (much better than photoflo)
Also smaller bottles 500ml are more useful than 1gal jugs for developer. Since you have to mix the full 1gal of developer "break it"into the 500ml bottles full to the brim to avoid gas and they'll keepo for a longer time.
I wouls also consider a liquid developer, a D76 clone (Arista brand) or HC-110/Rodinal that are easier to mix and HC110/Rodinal last forever.
Also smaller bottles 500ml are more useful than 1gal jugs for developer. Since you have to mix the full 1gal of developer "break it"into the 500ml bottles full to the brim to avoid gas and they'll keepo for a longer time.
I wouls also consider a liquid developer, a D76 clone (Arista brand) or HC-110/Rodinal that are easier to mix and HC110/Rodinal last forever.
ampguy
Veteran
Thanks Roger and titrisol:
@Roger - yes, we have a couple of Kalt graduates in .5L / 16oz. and 1l / 32 oz., I'll checkout your pages, we practiced loading the reels with a test roll, and my son and I can load a 24 frame roll in about 20-30 seconds with our eyes closed.
@titrison - thanks, am going to go without the stop, and photoflo initially, to keep the chemical use down (we have a lot of control over the water source), but will keep in mind the Edwal if it turns out we need something like that later.
Thanks for the tips on the Arista, and HC-110/Rodinal being easier to mix, may try these out.
@Roger - yes, we have a couple of Kalt graduates in .5L / 16oz. and 1l / 32 oz., I'll checkout your pages, we practiced loading the reels with a test roll, and my son and I can load a 24 frame roll in about 20-30 seconds with our eyes closed.
@titrison - thanks, am going to go without the stop, and photoflo initially, to keep the chemical use down (we have a lot of control over the water source), but will keep in mind the Edwal if it turns out we need something like that later.
Thanks for the tips on the Arista, and HC-110/Rodinal being easier to mix, may try these out.