goo0h
Well-known
OK, I hate flash, but know sometimes just have to live with it. I have a ZI that I really love, but of course it doesn't have TTL flash automation. I often push my film to 800 or even 1600 ISO so I don't get stuck in low-light situations and can't get the shot. However, sometimes even then it's not possible.
So, the other day I saw a discussion about a new Leica flash, and later came to find out it was pretty much just this unit (Metz 58 AF-1).
http://www.metz.de/en/photo-electro...litz-58-af-1-digital/product-information.html
One thing I notice about it that seems very cool is that in automatic mode, it can work with any aperture and any ISO. Hmm. I imagine that could be really handy at times.
Still, it's a monster sized flash, and I don't know if it's just too much with my ZI. I'd prefer a tiny flash, but ya know, if I have to use flash, seems like might as well go serious so can try to emulate "natural" lighting as much as possible.
Any advice here on what to do? Tricks for bouncing? If anyone has got this monster flash, what does it look like on a ZI, or similarly sized RF?
I don't know. If go with a shoe-mount flash that big, why not just go with a handle-mount flash? Oh, but that seems a bit nuts, way over kill.
Did I say I hate flash? :bang:
So, the other day I saw a discussion about a new Leica flash, and later came to find out it was pretty much just this unit (Metz 58 AF-1).
http://www.metz.de/en/photo-electro...litz-58-af-1-digital/product-information.html
One thing I notice about it that seems very cool is that in automatic mode, it can work with any aperture and any ISO. Hmm. I imagine that could be really handy at times.
Still, it's a monster sized flash, and I don't know if it's just too much with my ZI. I'd prefer a tiny flash, but ya know, if I have to use flash, seems like might as well go serious so can try to emulate "natural" lighting as much as possible.
Any advice here on what to do? Tricks for bouncing? If anyone has got this monster flash, what does it look like on a ZI, or similarly sized RF?
I don't know. If go with a shoe-mount flash that big, why not just go with a handle-mount flash? Oh, but that seems a bit nuts, way over kill.
Did I say I hate flash? :bang:
charjohncarter
Veteran
I like flash, but I know what you mean, it is a hassle. I use a non TTL with auto and manual. It has plenty of power, but with that comes size.
Bounce is easy just set the auto and bounce if it is in the distance range.
Fill is a little harder but I do it auto by choosing an auto aperture off the flash, then I set the camera aperture closed down two stops, after that I set the shutter to ambient light. That way it is balanced. Focal plane shutters cause problems by restricting high end speeds. Here is fill flash done with my Polaroid Automatic 100:
Bounce is easy just set the auto and bounce if it is in the distance range.
Fill is a little harder but I do it auto by choosing an auto aperture off the flash, then I set the camera aperture closed down two stops, after that I set the shutter to ambient light. That way it is balanced. Focal plane shutters cause problems by restricting high end speeds. Here is fill flash done with my Polaroid Automatic 100:
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Hi Amos,
I usually carry this kit in my bag for those times when I *had* to create some light:
* Ignore the Diana, it's a stand-in for my M4-P
The flash is compact enough, yet it's quite powerful for bouncing the light. The wireless trigger is a Cactus v4, cheap and reliable.
A step up from this is to get this Metz equivalent, which gives you a better control than the Contax one (which only has two settings, hi or lo).
I usually carry this kit in my bag for those times when I *had* to create some light:
* Ignore the Diana, it's a stand-in for my M4-P
The flash is compact enough, yet it's quite powerful for bouncing the light. The wireless trigger is a Cactus v4, cheap and reliable.
A step up from this is to get this Metz equivalent, which gives you a better control than the Contax one (which only has two settings, hi or lo).
goo0h
Well-known
Oh now that Cactus v4 looks fun!
goo0h
Well-known
I like flash, but I know what you mean, it is a hassle. I use a non TTL with auto and manual. It has plenty of power, but with that comes size.
Bounce is easy just set the auto and bounce if it is in the distance range.
Fill is a little harder but I do it auto by choosing an auto aperture off the flash, then I set the camera aperture closed down two stops, after that I set the shutter to ambient light. That way it is balanced. Focal plane shutters cause problems by restricting high end speeds. Here is fill flash done with my Polaroid Automatic 100:
That's really good. Yeah, I know what I need to do is practice a lot to see for myself what works.
What flash unit do you use?
oftheherd
Veteran
Have you considered the Vivitar 285?
oftheherd
Veteran
Hi Amos,
I usually carry this kit in my bag for those times when I *had* to create some light:
...
* Ignore the Diana, it's a stand-in for my M4-P
The flash is compact enough, yet it's quite powerful for bouncing the light. The wireless trigger is a Cactus v4, cheap and reliable.
A step up from this is to get this Metz equivalent, which gives you a better control than the Contax one (which only has two settings, hi or lo).
OK, I know this is RFF, but if you put that flash on a Contax or any of the Yashica FX models that have otf metering, you will be both surprised and happy. (For those times you may choose not to use an RF
)
peter_n
Veteran
I use the now discontinued Nikon SB-800. Not much bigger than a Leica SF-20. Has bounce too.
bene
Established
Some with romantic notions of Leica will say no to flash. HCB : flash is vulgar (paraphrase)
Flashing at strangers is wrong . I think it depends on the lens. If you are fitting a VC 35f2.5 you might feel off balanced. Should be ok with something like a nocti or VC equivalent.
Not crazy at all.
Flashing at strangers is wrong . I think it depends on the lens. If you are fitting a VC 35f2.5 you might feel off balanced. Should be ok with something like a nocti or VC equivalent.
Not crazy at all.
goo0h
Well-known
I thought that flash had high voltage issues?
swoop
Well-known
The old ones did. But the new ones don't.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
You use what you gotta use. I've been using Vivitar 283 units on my Leicas since they came out with them in the mid 1970's. Before that it was a manual Minicam EF-100 with a seperate power pack. That thing was HUGE! But nothing could pump out the light like big flash bulbs.
Glenn2
Well-known
That reminds me, I've still got a few #22 flash bulbs stashed in the basement. They're the ones that look like a regular 100 watt light bulb, complete with the same screw base.
Just the thing to replace the bulb in your porch light. ;-]
gns
Well-known
I used to use a Norman 200B on my leica. 200 watts seconds, super fast recycle, and a lot of flashes per charge. Heavy power pack in the shoulder bag, so just the light weight flash head on the camera. All manual.
Cheers,
Gary
Cheers,
Gary
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I never understood that aversion to flash... It's actually our best ally! If you use it well, bounce it, regulate it, your photos will be greatly exposed. Bad flash use is not necessarily the only way to use it.
BTW, I use an SF-20 on my Leicas when it's needed. Comes in handy when you have M6TTL bodies. Sure, the synch speed is low (1/50) but I like what I get.
So... I do love flash. It's a good tool, not a statement.
BTW, I use an SF-20 on my Leicas when it's needed. Comes in handy when you have M6TTL bodies. Sure, the synch speed is low (1/50) but I like what I get.
So... I do love flash. It's a good tool, not a statement.
amateriat
We're all light!
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I just looked at the specs... it's a flash for the Leica/Panasonic camera. I don't think you'd get it to work at its fullness (in terms of functions) with an M-body.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
The Norman 200B was a powerful flash, but one of the most reliable flashes ever made. It was heavy as hell too! The wedding shooters loved 'em. ISO 50 Ektacolor CPS, and then ISO 100 Vericolor VPS, needed a lot of light when shooting with a Rollei or Hasselblad in a big room or cavernous church.
Those big Edison base flashbulbs are worth quite a few bucks each these days! There's nothing that can light a big venue like flashbulbs.
Those big Edison base flashbulbs are worth quite a few bucks each these days! There's nothing that can light a big venue like flashbulbs.
GoneSavage
not actually
I had no idea you could get wireless triggers for so cheap! I now have a set on the way. Thanks!Hi Amos,
I usually carry this kit in my bag for those times when I *had* to create some light:
* Ignore the Diana, it's a stand-in for my M4-P
The flash is compact enough, yet it's quite powerful for bouncing the light. The wireless trigger is a Cactus v4, cheap and reliable.
A step up from this is to get this Metz equivalent, which gives you a better control than the Contax one (which only has two settings, hi or lo).
ps: that's a pretty hot setup, even with the Dianna.
charjohncarter
Veteran
I have two sets of the Ebay triggers. There are some minor problems with them. But there are also fixes for these problems and they are all over the IN. If you are unlucky enough to have Ebay trigger problems, go to Flickr and group strobist and search under cactus triggers. They have many good fixes.