ISO: Feedback on First Roll/ First Gallery

[Soapy Kittens]

Hey guys,
I've posted about getting an R or P before, but realized that I'm not good enough with my Canonet to justify the expense. So I've posted my first gallery and I'd like some feedback if anyone has a minute:

1. My post-processing needs help. I actually like using flash(especially in the winter)and I like the sepia-tone look, but I'd rather it happen intentionally. I'm using an Epson 2580 and its software and crappy Photostudio 5 for post-processing. I think it's user inexperience rather than the software, though. Hints/links would be most helpful.

2. General composition critique is badly needed, too. I prefer taking pictures of people, so composition tends to be an afterthought to trying to get the person to be in the picture in the first place and getting the shot in a timely fashion.

3. Anything else you notice that I might not.

Thanks everyone!

Ben

PS. Good god, if my RFF Gallery link doesn't work...!

 

[Pherdinand]

Hi.
1: I don't like to use flash myself so can't comment much on that; regarding your post-processing, i like the sepia tone too, it goes well with your subjects; however, if i see your images as a collection, they don't have an unique sepia tone. I would suggest to save if possible, or remember the parameters of toning and use always the same so you get a consistent tone over all the images. On the other hand, flatbed image scanning needs a certain amount of unsharp masking to get it back to good sharpness. It seems to me that you don't apply it at all, most of the images have that slight unsharp look.

2: There are quite some images where i like the way you composed them, even if you did not think about it. Generally, a problem with rf is that the focusing patch is in the middle so i myself tend to "forget" the subject in the middle, and that's not very good. Some of the more posed shots of you show the same however the grab-shots have extremely decentered people and that gives good dynamics to the image, in my oppinion.
You might use somewhat smaller apertures so that your background gets just a bit less in focus, in some cases it might help.

3: I like your choice of subject. Keep it up, i think photographing people in an interesting way is far not the 4easiest thing to do but a few successful frames can make me very happy.

 

[rover]

I think Pherdi's comment about placing your subject off center is a good one. I would add, step closer. When you bring a camera to your eye, make it a habbit to take one step forward before you snap the shutter. You will find that you like this closer view in some shots, and not like it in others and be able to adjust from there. In general this should make your subject a larger part of the image cutting out what may be happening in the background.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

Most of the shots are in focus, and you use "focus then compose" which usually takes RF users a long time to do. And you certainly have no problem getting a lot of pretty smiles for the shots. You use flash for most of the shots, you should try more existing light shots. Even in a not-so-well lit room, ASA400 1/30th at F1.7 usually picks up almost anything. That is where an RF sets itself apart from an SLR. Give it a try on the next roll.

 

[Soapy Kittens]

Thanks alot for the help! This is also my first experience with the unsharp mask. I messed around with that, brightness/contrast, hue/saturation, and tone controls to get these images. I saw an explanation of unsharp mask on Luminous-Landscape, but it was hard to understand. Anyone have a good practical explanation or a link to one? I guess I need a good range of settings to start from that I can then experiment with. Thanks again!


Ben

 

[Pherdinand]

Ben, regarding unsharp mask: It is an effect applied on every pixel separately, in sequence. Usually there are three numbers you can set. One is "treshold", i leave it at zero most of the times. The other one is "radius", which determines the range of action of the filter for each pixel. For sharpening an image, this should be around 1, up to 1.5. The third value is the strength of the filter. This one depends on the software, so you should experiment with it. If you set a too low value (like, 10-20 in photoshop etc), nothing much happens. If you set a too high value, like, above 100, a halo can appear around thin lines in the picture, sharp contrasty edges become rpugh, digital noise might appear etcetera. A good value is around 70, and it's always possible to do it in steps. I mostly apply it with a strength of 60-80 and then if it proves not to be enough, a second round with 30-40 will suffice.
The above applies to images with approx 1000x1000 pixel.
Important is that if you resize your image, new unsharp masking might be needed. It's the easiest if you don't unsharp mask until you have the final image size.

A second, more sophisticated use of the USM filter is when you use large radius, say, 50. In this case, it won't improve the image in its details (like sharpening) but it will change the tones/the levels. With a radius of 50 and a strength 30, zero or small treshold, you can get effects similar to "level adjustments" but better in the shadow areas.