Issues with new to me Nikon S3 2000

Surfheart

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I bought and received an "Almost unused" Nikon S3 2000 from the auctiion site.

It is in like new condition however when I tripped the shutter it sometimes sounded muted and soft to push.

So I went out and shot a roll yesterday and developed the film last night. Alot of the negatives have a vertical section of overexposed image on the frame edge.

I've found if I cock the shutter and leave the camera to sit for half an hour or so, when I fire the shutter it makes the mushy sound, however if I immediately recock and fire the shutter it fires normally and will seemingly do this forever. The issue only seems to occur if the camera is left to sit for a time with the shutter cocked.

I shot a slo mo with my phone to try and see what was going on and it seems the shutter opening is delayed for sometime after depressing the release.

Any ideas? I suspect the camera has sat in the box unused for years, I've excercised the shutter a fair bit but the problem returns if I leave the camera for a time with the shutter cocked.
 
I bought and received an "Almost unused" Nikon S3 2000 from the auctiion site.

It is in like new condition however when I tripped the shutter it sometimes sounded muted and soft to push.

So I went out and shot a roll yesterday and developed the film last night. Alot of the negatives have a vertical section of overexposed image on the frame edge.

I've found if I cock the shutter and leave the camera to sit for half an hour or so, when I fire the shutter it makes the mushy sound, however if I immediately recock and fire the shutter it fires normally and will seemingly do this forever. The issue only seems to occur if the camera is left to sit for a time with the shutter cocked.

I shot a slo mo with my phone to try and see what was going on and it seems the shutter opening is delayed for sometime after depressing the release.

Any ideas? I suspect the camera has sat in the box unused for years, I've excercised the shutter a fair bit but the problem returns if I leave the camera for a time with the shutter cocked.

It needs service. Exercising a shutter NEVER fixes a problem. Ever. Firing a shutter with dried out lubricants just wears it out faster. If you like the camera and got it for a good price, send it to someone like DAG and pay him a couple hundred bucks to service it. It'll work for many years after that! Otherwise, send it back and get a refund.
 
It needs serviced. Exercising a shutter NEVER fixes a problem. Ever. Firing a shutter with dried out lubricants just wears it out faster. If you like the camera and got it for a good price, send it to someone like DAG and pay him a couple hundred bucks to service it. It'll work for many years after that! Otherwise, send it back and get a refund.

Thanks, I'm in Australia though, not sure I have too many options for servicing. Might have to return it :(
 
Thanks, I'm in Australia though, not sure I have too many options for servicing. Might have to return it :(
Did you buy it from a shop in Japan? You should either have them pay to have it serviced (Kiitos would be my choice) or return it. I am assuming it was represented as being in full working order.
 
Is it just me, or does it seem unlikely that the problems would be due to dried out lubricants on a nikon camera that is only 20 years old. Drying out or not drying out is a lubricant issue which is completely independent of usage. I have a Nikon F2 which is at least 40 years old, possible as old as 50 years of age, which I bought some years ago, and seemed perfect when I bought it. Shutter speeds were still all within 1/2 stop, and every control was smooth as silk (well, Nikon F2 Abrams tank/Colt 1911 version of smooth as silk), and it had never been “serviced”. Sent it to Sover Wong out of a sense of obsessiveness and he verified the shutter speeds. After he worked on it they are all within a third stop, but camera feels no different.
My point is, would Nikon really be using lubricants in 2000 that “dry out” when the ones they were using in 1971 didn’t.
I don’t know. But lubricants don’t know if they’ve been sitting around quietly or poked every day. They either dry out or they don’t depending on what they are. The problem with this camera “appears” at first glance to act like a lube issue, but just seems odd on a camera that’s fairly new in analog camera terms.

I’d send it back though, regardless. Today. That’s one of the best things about ebay as a buyer. If you’d bought it on craigslist or paid with a check, you’d probably be out of luck. Just get another. Most of them are fine.
 
The dried out lubricants thing is a problem with Leica cameras, but Nikon RF cameras have shutter curtains that run in ball bearings and so rarely have shutter related issues, even after sitting unused for many years. The OP's camera needs servicing but the problem isn't dried out lubricants.
 
If you want to use the camera, why not get it serviced. I'm sure there are plenty of shops in Japan that could sort the camera out for you. Kanto Camera is well regarded.
 
Did you buy it from a shop in Japan? You should either have them pay to have it serviced (Kiitos would be my choice) or return it. I am assuming it was represented as being in full working order.

I did buy it from Japan and the listing indicated that the camera was in "perfect working order" "all shutter speeds correct"

The seller has been very responsive when I contacted them about it. I've sent them slow motion videos which clearly show the issue, just waiting on further contact.

I live in Australia so I'm not sure that I'd want to send the camera to Japan for repair, there is a service agent in the city nearest me but the guy that does all their classic camera repairs is away for 2 months.
 
Is it just me, or does it seem unlikely that the problems would be due to dried out lubricants on a nikon camera that is only 20 years old. Drying out or not drying out is a lubricant issue which is completely independent of usage. I have a Nikon F2 which is at least 40 years old, possible as old as 50 years of age, which I bought some years ago, and seemed perfect when I bought it. Shutter speeds were still all within 1/2 stop, and every control was smooth as silk (well, Nikon F2 Abrams tank/Colt 1911 version of smooth as silk), and it had never been “serviced”. Sent it to Sover Wong out of a sense of obsessiveness and he verified the shutter speeds. After he worked on it they are all within a third stop, but camera feels no different.
My point is, would Nikon really be using lubricants in 2000 that “dry out” when the ones they were using in 1971 didn’t.
I don’t know. But lubricants don’t know if they’ve been sitting around quietly or poked every day. They either dry out or they don’t depending on what they are. The problem with this camera “appears” at first glance to act like a lube issue, but just seems odd on a camera that’s fairly new in analog camera terms.

I’d send it back though, regardless. Today. That’s one of the best things about ebay as a buyer. If you’d bought it on craigslist or paid with a check, you’d probably be out of luck. Just get another. Most of them are fine.

Yep, it's disappointing and surprising as the camera looks like it just rolled off the factory floor.

It's an odd issue, I can fire the shutter over and over ,with no issues, at all speeds but If I leave the camera sit for even 30 mintutes, cocked or uncocked, I press the shutter button and hear a soft noise and then some moments later the shutter will grudgingly open. Straight after this I can recock and fire the shutter again and it's fine.

I'm torn about keeping it, I really like the camera and I'm in the hole about $400 AUD for customs and shipping plus whatever it's going to cost to ship back to the seller, it's just that repair options where I live are virtually nonexistent.
 
I have experienced the same problem with a classic S3. Sounds like the slow speeds escapement keeps more or less engaged all the time, because the slow speeds unit might be screwed on the camera chassis a little bit out of alignment. Also, I would clean all the rotating cams and flat springs which are under the shutter crate.
Yet, I would perform these easy fixes on a vintage Nikon S3 of mine, built in the 1950s, and got as used and as-is, at my own risk. Here, with an S3 2000 recently bought from a dealer, I would just return it and look for another one which will work flawlessly.
 
I have experienced the same problem with a classic S3. Sounds like the slow speeds escapement keeps more or less engaged all the time, because the slow speeds unit might be screwed on the camera chassis a little bit out of alignment. Also, I would clean all the rotating cams and flat springs which are under the shutter crate.
Yet, I would perform these easy fixes on a vintage Nikon S3 of mine, built in the 1950s, and got as used and as-is, at my own risk. Here, with an S3 2000 recently bought from a dealer, I would just return it and look for another one which will work flawlessly.

I was watching through the back of the camera one of the times that the shutter failed to function normally and I can see that the shutter has only opened a fraction on the right and sticks there until I move the wind lever.
 
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