john341
camera user
I've got one in Contax/Kiev mount, and find it to be a good performer. It works well enough with my Nikon RF, but I recently switched it over to a Contax II.
Had a Black J-12 before, and shimmed it specifically for the Nikon RF. The DOF covers the error, but shifting the "sweet spot" made a visible difference in the images.
Had a Black J-12 before, and shimmed it specifically for the Nikon RF. The DOF covers the error, but shifting the "sweet spot" made a visible difference in the images.
john341
camera user
[ Had a Black J-12 before, and shimmed it specifically for the Nikon RF. The DOF covers the error, but shifting the "sweet spot" made a visible difference in the images.[/quote]
I gently tried fitting my J-12 kiev mount onto a Nikon s2 but there was some resistance. Is the problem only with the outermost rim or is the bayonet a problem as well? Can't afford a nikkor w/a and a j12 which fits would be good!
I gently tried fitting my J-12 kiev mount onto a Nikon s2 but there was some resistance. Is the problem only with the outermost rim or is the bayonet a problem as well? Can't afford a nikkor w/a and a j12 which fits would be good!
The Black J-12 that I had originally would not go onto the Nikon. The problem was the chrome ring over the bayonet mount of the lens. I think three screws held it in place. I removed it and filed it down a little. After that, it went on without resistance.
The 1960 Chrome J-12 I have goes on just fine. The trick is to "feel your way" on with the lens, and try to feel the hang-ups. A little filing can fix it. The first Nikkor 13.5cm F3.5 would not go onto my S3. I found one of the flages had been bent. Flat head screw driver put it right.
The 1960 Chrome J-12 I have goes on just fine. The trick is to "feel your way" on with the lens, and try to feel the hang-ups. A little filing can fix it. The first Nikkor 13.5cm F3.5 would not go onto my S3. I found one of the flages had been bent. Flat head screw driver put it right.
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
I gently tried fitting my J-12 kiev mount onto a Nikon s2 but there was some resistance. Is the problem only with the outermost rim or is the bayonet a problem as well? Can't afford a nikkor w/a and a j12 which fits would be good![/QUOTE]
it is with the rim.
it will put a semi circular clean scratch on the trim plate of your Nikon.
it is with the rim.
it will put a semi circular clean scratch on the trim plate of your Nikon.
chair_man
Member
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Had a J-12 with which I was happy, but stopped using it on getting an Ultron 35/1.7. Carlo Cruz of Manila should soon get the lens.
John341, going by the title of this thread: I imagine the lens will be good for what is called street photography. Could even manage without focussing each time.
John341, going by the title of this thread: I imagine the lens will be good for what is called street photography. Could even manage without focussing each time.
john341
camera user
I know that I lucked out picking it up very cheaply but, close to J-12 price once you subtract out the value of the included M adapter-
The Canon 35/2 is small, fast, and VERY sharp.
The major problem with the J-12 is that rear element. A lot of cameras just can't take it, either in Contax mount or LTM. You cannot put it on a Contax IIIa or IIa. It fits on "many" Nikon RF's, but some filing might be required. And on LTM and M-Mount cameras, you need to be careful of light baffles and meters. A Meter stalk can get "hit", and some TTL meters get their view obstructed.
> I used on J-12 recently on a Leotax.
With all that stated, put a J-12 on a Barnack style camera and you are set. It would go right onto my Leotax D-IV. But then I would have to take the Simlar 5cm F1.5 off of it...
I end up shooting with the Canon 35/2.8 and now 35/2 for a compact setup. The 35/2.8 is "just compact", and much sharper than the Nikkor 3.5cm F3.5. Another low-priced 35 to look at.
On J-12's scratching Nikons
> it is with the rim.
> it will put a semi circular clean scratch on the trim plate of your Nikon.
That is the issue. Now, MY "Beater" S2 picked up very cheap has every scratch possible on it. EXCEPT the J-12 rim scratch, I polished it down. Just lay Sand Paper flat and use circular motions. Take just a little bit off of it. Consider it "Conservation of Inconvenience" or "Price vs Elbow Grease". AND if you really want it perfect for a Nikon, take off the rear module, unscrew the front module to reveal the Shim. Increase it's thichness by ~0.4mm or so.
(Okay- so Optics forum, I've generalized this to 35's for street (and other) photography)
The Canon 35/2 is small, fast, and VERY sharp.
The major problem with the J-12 is that rear element. A lot of cameras just can't take it, either in Contax mount or LTM. You cannot put it on a Contax IIIa or IIa. It fits on "many" Nikon RF's, but some filing might be required. And on LTM and M-Mount cameras, you need to be careful of light baffles and meters. A Meter stalk can get "hit", and some TTL meters get their view obstructed.
> I used on J-12 recently on a Leotax.
With all that stated, put a J-12 on a Barnack style camera and you are set. It would go right onto my Leotax D-IV. But then I would have to take the Simlar 5cm F1.5 off of it...
I end up shooting with the Canon 35/2.8 and now 35/2 for a compact setup. The 35/2.8 is "just compact", and much sharper than the Nikkor 3.5cm F3.5. Another low-priced 35 to look at.
On J-12's scratching Nikons
> it is with the rim.
> it will put a semi circular clean scratch on the trim plate of your Nikon.
That is the issue. Now, MY "Beater" S2 picked up very cheap has every scratch possible on it. EXCEPT the J-12 rim scratch, I polished it down. Just lay Sand Paper flat and use circular motions. Take just a little bit off of it. Consider it "Conservation of Inconvenience" or "Price vs Elbow Grease". AND if you really want it perfect for a Nikon, take off the rear module, unscrew the front module to reveal the Shim. Increase it's thichness by ~0.4mm or so.
(Okay- so Optics forum, I've generalized this to 35's for street (and other) photography)
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Florian1234
it's just hide and seek
I've used a Jupiter-12 nearly exclusively on a Leica M4 for about one year. See my flickr photostream for examples with it.
It gives the photos a certain classic feel, but also has a flare problem.
It gives the photos a certain classic feel, but also has a flare problem.
Check the "shiny-ness" of the aperture blades. I had that proiblem on the Helios-103 and Menopta 53/1.8. Took out the front section and blackened tha blades with a Sharpie. That Greatly reduced flare.