Jammed M3 !

angeloks

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Ok,

I got a Leica M3 from a seller here. After a week, it completely jammed. I pressed the shutter, it fired but the shutter isn't properly replaced... and I cannot move the winding lever anymore.

So, I had a proper set of clamps and I was curious. I opened it for fun. Now, the top plate has been removed. I must say that I don't really know where to look... A voice in me wants to fix it, but another one wants to close the top plate ASAP and sent it to Kinderman...

Now, is there a quick fix to this jammed M3 ? What should I be looking for ? Or should I just give up, put back the top plate and send it for repair ?

Thanks,
 
Oh my, if film is jammed inside you should know where to look at. If it is an unknown jamming, don't mess with it. I wouldn't!
 
Sometimes there's a felt light trap in the film aperture that loosens and jams things up.
If it's visible it's a pretty simple fix. You would need to remove the chassis from the shell & reglue the felt.
 
Hello....My m3 did it once after Just CLAed by Youxin,,,he sent me some instruction by mail, I am not handy in repairing, so finally I returned to Youxin...Gonna try find the mail and attache it here...
Bob.
> >
> > Dear Roberto,
> > There is a common problem with some newly CLA'd
> M2/3 - it may get jam under high speeds 1/500 and 1/1000.
> After you fire the camera, you will not be able to wind the
> camera. The unjam the camera, you need to pull the shutter
> curtain a little then let it bounce back. But next shot it
> will jam again.
> > In this case, you need take out the bottom cover, it
> has three screws, two big one and one small one on the other
> side. The bottom plate hook up plate is underneath, you
> need to remember the direction, when you fit back, you need
> to fit to exact position.
> > After you take out the bottom cover, you see a big
> screw head in the middle of camera chassis. That is shutter
> brake adjustment screw. All you need it slightly turn the
> screw head, use a large and good slot screw driver, turn it
> clockwise, only a little, about 2-3mm trip distance. This
> will solve this problem.
> > If it is not this case, or you don't have
> confidence to work on, then you have to send me the camera.
> > Regards,
> > Youxin
> > Mail atacched....
 
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Hm. Surely good to know, but I wonder why Youxin whites that. I thought adjusting the shutter brake was part of a CLA? Is there something special about the M2 and M3 that necessitates additional adjustments by the user?
 
Hi,

My M2 did the same thing & Malcolm Taylor instructed me to do exactly the same as is described in the post above from Youxin Ye. Remove the lens and the film back and gently pull the shutter and then release. It should free up after this operation.

Regards,

Simon
 
Ah, thank you guys ! I'll give it a try after work. Hope it works !
Please be so kindly when pulling the curtain, you may cause bending the metal bars...and if so...you must change the curtain...:bang::bang:..
It happened to me once:mad::mad:...
Good luck...
Bob.
 
adjusting the brake might work.
I got mine working by messing with the rewind thing and the advance sprockets- don't ask how I did it, I don't know how...
 
Occasionally you can free it up by putting it to B and running the self-timer! Never understood why it works - but I have used the trick a couple of time with success!
Pulling on the curtains should be a last resort! If something is jammed, you might tear it of the shutter drum.
The light trap in the curtain track can come loose as stated and fold up. If you pull the curtains - you just aggravate the problem by jamming it further. If you get it working - you should still have it checked out as there can be something fundamentally wrong with it.
 
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