Jobo Friendly Film/Developer Combinations

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bwcolor

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I'm new to Jobo and know that I should not be using certain developers with constant agitation, so Rodinal gets the manual treatment.

I didn't like Neopan 1600 @ EI 640 with TMax Developer 1+9. It looked rather a mushy mess compared to other combinations that I've tried with manual agitation.

Today I tried the first combination that really seems to work. I had some 645 Tri-X, shot at EI 400, which was processed in TMax Developer 1+4 20 degrees for six minutes. Nice tonality and grain was nice. I don't use Tri-X in 35mm.

Any other Jobo B&W combinations that seem to work well?
 
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i don't think too many people use Jobos anymore. I use my CPP2 for b/w to run several rolls at once. If I were doing one roll at a time the Jobo would not make much sense.
As far as times go I just use the Massive Dev Chart and reduce the times by 15%. I have never had any issues as long as I reduce the development time. I use HC110, D76 and Rodinal/Adonal, and they all work as they should.
The Jobo is a wonderful machine for processing anything more than a single roll at a time. The temp stays consistent, you use less chemical, development is more consistent, etc.
Now if I could just find a dirt cheap tempered water panel I would hook up my ATL-1500 and start doing E6 at home.

bob
 
I have a JOBO, but have yet to use it. Probably will soon to try and clear out a lot of undeveloped film hanging around. But I know nothing of developer combinations that would work, and look to seeing people give their experiences like bob338 above. Good to know that D76, HC110, and Rodinal are all good to use.
 
I purchased the Jobo units to stop the C-41 Blix from going all over the place, as it does with my stainless tanks. So, just playing with the use of Jobo for B&W. It works great for C-41. I've got some E-6 chemicals, but haven't yet mixed them. In general, I find them to be cleaner and easier to use than the stainless tanks/Hewes reels. The photo I posted taught me one lesson. I loaded the tank and tossed in the chemicals only to learn that there was no magnet on the tank. I had put the wrong top on the wrong tank. Anyway, I dutifully provided the manual rotation.
 
oftheherd said:
I have a JOBO, but have yet to use it. Probably will soon to try and clear out a lot of undeveloped film hanging around. But I know nothing of developer combinations that would work, and look to seeing people give their experiences like bob338 above. Good to know that D76, HC110, and Rodinal are all good to use.
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I would have thought that Rodinal and all that agitation would only work if you really loved the grainy look. I'm now curious as to what films you have worked with the Jobo/Rodinal combination
 
Uh, well my experience with HC-110 in a Jobo wasn't too good, HC-110 being a highly active developer and all. I used a 1:63 dilution and development times at around 4:30 but still some highlights were "on the verge". As was said already, the Jobo is for colour and for processing many rolls of B&W at once. Mind you, Paul Butzi used XTOL and TMX/Acros in the Jobo with great results. I'm sure others will chime in in due course. 8)
 
I only use JOBO for C41 & E6. Never tried it with B&W. From my point of view, B&W is relatively easy to process. So I'd do it myself rather than setup JOBO.
 
I was using it extensively for a while and used mostly D-76 and Tri-x. When using it i was getting the most consistent negs I have ever gotten. Consistency is the key. A 15% reduction is a good starting point. For Tri-X rated at 200-250 depending on light with D-76 1:1 8 min came out excellent for me. I am not getting so great results with xtol(manual). Does anyone have experience with it using a jobo? I get the impression xtol requires a more vigorous agitation than say Hc-110 and D-76?
 
bwcolor said:
I would have thought that Rodinal and all that agitation would only work if you really loved the grainy look. I'm now curious as to what films you have worked with the Jobo/Rodinal combination
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I use Rodinal 1:50 and APX100 for 11 minutes in the Jobo with good results. It might be a little grainier than processing it by hand but it's so easy to load up 5 rolls and knock them out all at once.

Bob
 
Xtol. 1:3.

T-Max. All.
Tri-X Professional (the ASA 320 stuff)
Arista Professional/Plus-X
Tri-X 400
Arista-EDU Ultra/Foma 200.
HP5+
PanF+
Delta 100
Efke 25
Anything else I find in my freezer.

Rodinal on occasion with any of the above.

Everything goes in my Jobo tanks. Except Rodinal when I let it stand. Then I use a Paterson clone tank.
 
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venchka said:
Xtol. 1:3.

T-Max. All.
Tri-X Professional (the ASA 320 stuff)
Arista Professional/Plus-X
Tri-X
Arista-EDU Ultra 200.
HP5+
PanF+
Delta 100
Efke 25
Anything else I find in my freezer.

Rodinal on occasion with any of the above.

Everything goes in my Jobo tanks. Except Rodinal when I let it stand. Then I use a Paterson clone tank.
Click to expand...


Are you doing your 4x5 with a Jobo?
 
Delta 3200 @ EI 1600 in TMax Developer

Delta 3200 @ EI 1600 in TMax Developer

Just scanned my first two rolls of the above in the Jobo.. 6 minutes TMax Developer 1+4 for 6 minutes at 68 degrees. Looks really good. This is the time suggested by Chris Crawford. I have been using the hand agitate times and so far so good.
 
bwcolor said:
Just scanned my first two rolls of the above in the Jobo.. 6 minutes TMax Developer 1+4 for 6 minutes at 68 degrees. Looks really good. This is the time suggested by Chris Crawford. I have been using the hand agitate times and so far so good.
Click to expand...

make sure to prewash...I usually do about 5 minutes.
 
I use XTOL and a Jobo CPP2 for my large format black and white. If you look on the kodak web page they show times for XTOL used in a rotary proccesor which is kind of handy. They also say you do not need a presoak with XTOL (now if only those expert drums were not so expensive)
 
here's an interesting link about pre-soaking. As expected there are opinions all over the place and there are also some films that apparently advise against pre-soaking. Interesting read. I don't pre-soak but I'd check the "manufacturer's advisory" in the processing instructions if I did.

Pre-soaking film thread
 
Delta 3200 @ EI 1600

Delta 3200 @ EI 1600

bwcolor said:
Just scanned my first two rolls of the above in the Jobo.. 6 minutes TMax Developer 1+4 for 6 minutes at 68 degrees. Looks really good. This is the time suggested by Chris Crawford. I have been using the hand agitate times and so far so good.
Click to expand...

Dead film .. but I've got lots of it and need to shoot it before the "rays" do the film in.

Better tonality @ 81/4 minutes. Here is sample.. not great photo, but demonstrates tonality.

5598260378_f6ac64693e_z.jpg
 
jan normandale said:
here's an interesting link about pre-soaking. As expected there are opinions all over the place and there are also some films that apparently advise against pre-soaking. Interesting read. I don't pre-soak but I'd check the "manufacturer's advisory" in the processing instructions if I did.

Pre-soaking film thread
Click to expand...

No opinion. Just fact. I do it. It does no harm. It may do some good. I will continue to do it.
 
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