Calzone
Gear Whore #1
- Local time
- 12:17 PM
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2008
- Messages
- 16,953
- Location
- The Gateway To The Hudson Highlands
Out of rule of thumb I always shot HP5 at 250-320 and got it Developed in Dil.E. 7:30, 10s agitation each minute
Last weekend at the camera club a member told me the faucet thermometer is wrong so instead of 20C I had been cooking film at 24C.
Perfectly good negs anyways... Printed straight.
TriX was reengineered in 2004 IIRC so should be a bit modern vs HP5. I guess Ilford has only tuned imperceptible stuff, if they had to at all.
Went out for a daytrip to rural Scandinavia and many places seemed like the US south in aesthetic, corroborated by a film photo friend!
Because toy cameras began to chase me, I had to give a try Fomapan. Less than $4/120 roll. Fun film. That one is actually almost half box speed as they got the ISO tested in speed increasing developer.
The 100 in a holga on a sunny day worked great. I ordered a brick of the 200 to run at 125 and do more loose shooting stuff.
I will try some flash stuff as traded a thrift camera for a speedlight.
I have my "cheap" Rolex (SS Sub "No-Date") back. Now I realize how heavy and huge the Panerai is. The Rolex is more comfortable.
So like my old Wetzlar M6 it is remarkable how time with an object can form a bond.
In a way because I have moved around so much these famiar objects carry a sense of home for me, somehow I have a secure sense of permanence, and a basic and primal need is met.
Today I carry the SL2-MOT again. The spot metering is a liability at times because it is different from my other cameras. Yesterday I found myself in the shadows, but the scene was sunlite, so I metered off the back of my hand in the shadows and subtracted two stops to compensate. Pretty much hope for the best.
The VF'er provides aperture and shutter speed, but because of M-bodies I have the habit of reading the speed off the dial and the aperture off the lens. I don't understand why I don't do this with my F3P, and I find it odd. So that is why I'm tending to the SL2-MOT.
"Strange is good," I say.
Cal
Cal, I've noticed as we get older we like old familiar things. I've worn a Casio standard G-Shock most of the time since 1987. I've carried a Swiss Army Super Tinker the same length of time.
I guess as we get older, we want familiar things around us.
5222 XX Darkroom print 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr5222 XX Darkroom print 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Minolta SRT101 Eastman XX 5222 ADOX Borax developer
85mm F1.7 MC Rokkor
Promaster VC RC paper developed in Multigrade developer
80mm F4 Rodagon laser aligned
How do 11x14's look with ADOX-PQ? Pretty much this is where I want to go.
Glen Helen Yellow Springs 1 by Nokton48, on FlickrHaven't printed any yet, starting with 8x10 250 sheet box and 100 sheet 5x7.
I suspect you will start to see some grain. After all it's film from the late 1950s. I like the grain pattern and rendition (as you know)
Glen Helen Yellow Springs 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Enlarged onto 8x10 Arista Ultra EDU #2 graded paper, using Modern Enlarging Systems Model II LED head as light source.
Uber bright LED light source, blue LEDS only (for graded paper use). Which I happen to prefer right now.
5 seconds at F32 enlarging time. development in Ilford Multigrade developer. Using vintage Omega Omegalite circuline bulb exposure time same height 35 secs at F16.
Glen Helen Yellow Springs waterfall
Sinar Norma 4x5 HP5 D76
MFM,
Yesterday I got the surprise of a book delivery. Many thanks.
Know that there are a lot of creative possibilities laid out, and that I will share this book as a resource with the dudes from the NYC Meet-Up.
Very cool the retro look. Funny how I could not find a copyright date, but it looks to be 1960's.
The "Vacuum Easel" is not what I need, although useful for other things. The "Vacuum Frame" I require is to compress a sandwich of photographic paper and negative to make contact prints.
The size of this frame in my case would be rather large because my Epson 7800 is a 24 inch wide printer, and the purpose of this contact printing would be to make/create limited editions.
As you can tell the studio I am planning would have to be rather large to do all this. Making a print washer for say a 24x36 inch print is likely.
Cal
Cal, tell the guy's I've scanned several of the projects from that book and the Blueprint Volume 2 book. All the need to do is ask and if I have it scanned, I'll email it to them
On the print washer....frankly, I feel that Perry Yob had a bad habit of over complicating things. I've been around somebody fibreglassing stuff and NEVER AGAIN! The stink is just awful.
I spoke to B-9 (sent him a copy of the book) and she showed it to a buddy that does PVC work-his buddy thinks it'd be pretty easy to weld one up from sheet PVC.
Cal, just remember when you build the print washer-water is 62.4 pound per cubic foot.
I ran the math on a 24 x 36 x 8 inside size print washer-250 pounds of water.
Haven't printed any yet, starting with 8x10 250 sheet box and 100 sheet 5x7.
I suspect you will start to see some grain. After all it's film from the late 1950s. I like the grain pattern and rendition (as you know)
Glen Helen Yellow Springs 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Enlarged onto 8x10 Arista Ultra EDU #2 graded paper, using Modern Enlarging Systems Model II LED head as light source.
Uber bright LED light source, blue LEDS only (for graded paper use). Which I happen to prefer right now.
5 seconds at F32 enlarging time. development in Ilford Multigrade developer. Using vintage Omega Omegalite circuline bulb exposure time same height 35 secs at F16.
Glen Helen Yellow Springs waterfall
Sinar Norma 4x5 HP5 D76
Why not put some neutral density filters in the filter drawer to increase the exposure time in order to have extra time to do dodging + burning?
So, when's the meetup?
I feel like i have been reborn. My post count went back to 0...