Jupiter-3 50mm f1.5

isorgb

isorgb

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I got this lens for one beer, some times ago. It strongly used, but it works.
Recently I wanted to try it for portrait on Epson R-D1.
Nice results (for me of course). I really like blur area. Colors, aberration could be better, but ..... one beer....

From very close to full portrait is not too bad.

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It looks great. Your color work will greatly benifit using UV/IR cut filters. The RD1 needs them just like the M8. Seldom discussed but no less true. B&W makes one in 40.5mm fir the J3.
 
Learned this from Roger Hicks today: when shooting a Sonnar close up and wide open (first shot), lean back three or four inches to correct focus shift. You focused on the eyes, the hair along the ear is in focus now.

Sonnars rule, I have several shots with a Jupiter-3 in my Flickr stream. There's a Carl Zeiss Jena from 1943 in the mail for me, cost me quite a lot of beers 😀 You did well!

Brilliant shots! Do get that IR-cut filter like Andy said, unless that coat really was purple with a black belt 🙂
 
CLE-RF said:
Learned this from Roger Hicks today: when shooting a Sonnar close up and wide open (first shot), lean back three or four inches to correct focus shift. You focused on the eyes, the hair along the ear is in focus now.
Click to expand...

Thank you!!!
I have one picture like this. I thought that this is my mistake.

CLE-RF said:
Sonnars rule, I have several shots with a Jupiter-3 in my Flickr stream. There's a Carl Zeiss Jena from 1943 in the mail for me, cost me quite a lot of beers 😀 You did well!
Click to expand...
I think your Carl Zeiss Jena from 1943 is not dirty, scratched like my Beer-Jupiter (but still very nice lens) 😉

CLE-RF said:
Brilliant shots! Do get that IR-cut filter like Andy said, unless that coat really was purple with a black belt 🙂
Click to expand...
Who will give me IR filter for beer? 😀
 
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I'm always telling people how good a Jupiter-3 can be...

It does benefit from changing the shim, as the FSU standard is different from the Leica standard. The first photo looks like it is slightly back-focusing. Adding 0.1mm to the shim would cure that problem. You can use some aluminum foil for shim material.

For IR Cut Filters: Ebay Search Term "Hot Mirror" will get the generation of filters used for the 90s Digital Cameras. I've been picking them up for $5 to $20. These are professional grade filters made for $10,000 cameras. The cameras are worth about $50 these days, and the filters go for low prices. Patience is required. I did pick up a 52mm and 48mm for a total of $30 (w/o shipping) last week.
 
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The optics module of the J-3 unscrews from the focus mount. the "shim" sets the stand-off for screwing the optics module into the focus mount. When a lens is focusing behind the point that the Rangefinder indicates, you need to move the optics out slightly.
 
See Kim Coxon's site for a Jupiter-3 adjustment.

http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs.htm

And this thread on ziforums.com shows the shims used for the J-3 and Zeiss Sonnar.

http://ziforums.com/showthread.php?t=360


And a shot to show an adjusted J-3 with it's wonderful Bokeh...

picture.php
 
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These are beautiful lenses if you find a nice copy. I'm loving mine (one that Brian worked on) and would post a couple shots - but they were shot on an M8, rather than the R-D1.
And I have no problem with focus shift at minimum distance.
 
This is with a Jupiter-3 on my M8, using the M8 to check the focus and adjust the shim. I ended up adding a shim about the thickness of one layer of Kitchen Aluminum Foil to correct the focus. The focus was about 1.5" off before adding the extra shim.

Wide-open and closest-focus, on the M8.

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At least the snowstorms of 2010 made my test Shots prettier.

And in real use.

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100% crop.
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Raid- you need an M8... for those lens tests. It would be cheaper...

Yesterday, I shimmed the 90/2 Summicron. It was off on my Film cameras as well. 3 Layers of Copper Tape did the trick.
 
Heh, while we're at it I'll throw in my J-3 woes as well. 😉

Brian, I got that lens tool we talked about a few months ago. but I'm having a heck of a time unscrewing the rear lens element from the lens unit to clean it. 🙁

Here's a few taken with my 1957 J-3 on my R-D1 back in September 2009
rotm01.jpg


rotm03.jpg

yeah, that's me with the cigar 😛
 
>but I'm having a heck of a time unscrewing the rear lens element from the lens unit to
>clean it.

For the rear fixture: I use a rubber gromet used for passing wiring harnasses throught project boxes. You can find them in the electrical department at a hardware store. I found mine in a dumpster. It is a hollow hard-rubber "cork". I cut them down the side and they have a good grip.
 
A bit like a rubber o-ring? Hadn't thought of using something like that. Will look for some.
The prongs of the adjustable lens tool keep slipping out of the grooves. I don't want to force anything and end up scratching the rear lens.
 
Rick, I use rubber caps you can fit on the end of stool legs. You can buy them at the Gamma hardware store.

I ran into a CZJ 50/1.5 here on RFF and it wasn't taken after 48 hours😱, so I figured it was waiting for me to pick it up. Currently NL customs still are discussing the subject, but I expect to have it here before the weekend😎
 
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