Just bought a contax I + postwar sonnar

I used to own an Opton 50/2 which had the very same problem... and when I got it, it was like new too... that was an easy fix. :D
 
Dralowid said:
It looks well looked after, the only component I'd query is the focussing wheel which looks chrome/steel. I wonder whether it should be nickel and has been replaced.

As to breaking the camera, I'd advise that you only ever turn the speed/advance knob in one direction...if memory serves, anti clockwise when seen from the front (BUT PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK!!!).

Repair? I have a few of these but nowadays only put the effort into keeping one working!

Michael
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I have a Contax 1A, 1E, and 1F (too many, I think I will sell the 1E). Miraculously, they all work. On all of these cameras, the single chrome plated part is the focus wheel, so I am fairly certain this can be original.

Fixing the shutter can run the range of moderately easy to nearly impossible, depending on what is wrong. The most common problem is broken shutter tapes. This is not a particularly difficult fix, but the camera construction is very fragile and it is easy to break things. It is crucial to remember that the slots in the shutter curtain are NOT the same as they are in the later Contaxes and Kievs, so the same tape and technique cannot be used.

For the winding and setting, presuming you have a camera with slow speeds, the lift-and-turn speed selector can be turned in either direction, before or after winding. The middle, range-selecting ring can only be turned counter-clockwise. The wind knob is turned clockwise only. Winding these things is tricky, as the resistance varies as the mechanism does a number of different things. It needs to be wound all the way, or it gets confused.

But DON'T FORCE ANYTHING!! Unfortunately, the effort needed to wind the shutter all the way, and the effort that constitues forcing it are rather close at low speeds.

These things are beautiful, but fragile. I think a careful review of the Contax 1 by the pro photographers of the day may have done good things for Leica sales! Enjoy!

Cheers,
Dez
 
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Thanks, I hope I will be able to enjoy it at some point! Two days ago I just got a clean leather case for it (25€, I did not break the bank) :p. Problem is, I do not know if it will fit the body + my black/nickel sonnar f2. It will be a surprise.

For the moment, the shutter is out of order : it is broken between two slats. The RF could also use some tuning, and the focus is too hard and should be cleaned. I know a repairman, which is also a friend : he will hopefully be able to sort it out in the following months. When I look at the prices on eBay for a more or less working Contax I (> 450€ with a Tessar), I think I can "invest" some cash in a proper restoration.

Out of curiosity, for how much would you sell your 1e?
 
I love the looks of my '32 Contax I, but admit the later '50 Contax IIa is much easier to use, better viewfinder & rangefinder patch, better shutter speed dial, smoother operation overall- the Contax II and III series were superior to the Leicas until the introduction of the M3
 
It's a bit nasty if it has come apart between slats. The channels need to be bent back into shape very carefully, a little tab bent back, and the curtain sections slid back together.It is tricky but doable. There are two different cases, one with a larger projection on the front to fit the larger lens: this version is a bit scarce. I guess I would sell my 1E, with a black and nickel f2.8 Tessar, for $US550. If it is of interest, please send me a private nessage with your email address, and I will send you some pictures of it.

Cheers,

Dez
 
Thank you. The price quote was just out of curiosity, I'm trying to figure how much a Contax cost these days. Prices are all over the place, but a Contax I is seldom cheap.

I will try to have mine fixed, as it looks nice. And I am more into lenses, as I already have some clean/working bodies (II, III, IIa, Kiev II). I'm looking for an original Biogon (wartime T would be cool), but the prices :bang:. No way can I fork out more than 150€, I'm no Cresus.
 
Well, I know, I have a '52 jupiter that works good. It is just nice to have an "original" biogon. Anyway, I'm not really looking for one, I'm just waiting for a low-priced bargain to magically appear :D .

And from time to time, it does. For example last year I grabbed my clean working Contax II + planar 35 + 432/5 finder for 75€ BIN on ebay.
 
btw both the Biogon 35mm and the Russian copy J-12 won't fit the postwar models Contax IIa & Contax IIIa, their bodies are notably smaller than the prewar Contaxes ot the Kiev rangefinders ( possibly they could be modified, a matter of circa 1mm to shave off, anyone tried it ? )
 
Wonderful deal!

Wonderful deal!

S.H. said:
For example last year I grabbed my clean working Contax II + planar 35 + 432/5 finder for 75€ BIN on ebay.
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WOW! why doesn't that happen to me? :(

Cheers,

Dez.
 
I still can't believe it myself. It does not happen often ...

The leather case has arrived, it has a "long nose" and fits the body with the rigid sonnar. Very tight fit. Some stitching to be done, lacks the bottom screw and a small side flap but the leather is still nice. I will have to take a pic of this kit... :p
 
I thought about bidding, but the glass is not in a very good state...
And I already have a 18cm and a 30cm :p (black ones T coated from 1949 in Exakta mount). The 30cm is as new, focusing is frozen but I used the 18cm on my M8 / visoflex III, not bad at all but HEAVY :





I also intent to use them on my 'blad 1000f.
 
why not

why not

S.H. said:
I thought about bidding, but the glass is not in a very good state...
And I already have a 18cm and a 30cm :p (black ones T coated from 1949 in Exakta mount). The 30cm is as new, focusing is frozen but I used the 18cm on my M8 / visoflex III, not bad at all but HEAVY :





I also intent to use them on my 'blad 1000f.
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I think a CLA of that lens should cost no more than 100-150 €, and possibly you could even do it at home, the slight smear and fungus would remove without leaving traces, the fault lies with the previous owner who left the lens in the leather carrying case, from which fungus spores move to the glass. Lenses should be stored separately from any leather goods, in a cabinet.
 
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