Just developed Rollei Retro 80S - and I am confused

[Santtu Määttänen]

For developing there's two routes for me mainly. One is using Diafine. Other is using highly diluted Rodinal (1+100 or even 1+200) and using stand development which compensates quite nicely the high contrast. For contact printing (which I've done by using several exposures of 6x12 side by side, triptychs and quadtychs) the high contrast is actually preferable since I use printing out paper for that purpose (or do a saltprint / albumen print). Those techniques require highly dense negatives which is quite easy to get using this film.

Yes you can and most likely should pull quite a bit to get "normal" tonality. Also using compensating development helps. Or you can embrace the high contrast if it suites your style. For me it's the easy way for my vision to come to life, using this film. Mainly due to tiny grain, very very high amount of detail and ease of printing if correct measures were done in exposure and development. It took my heart 🙂 Earlier I mainly used Tri-X but for now these films are the way to go when working in lower iso range. Mainly, there are others too but for more specialized purposes.

 

[sojournerphoto]

Somewhere in my history is a post on 80s in xtol, with Either and times, plus some detailed scans. Probably also in my gallery.

I like it once you tame the contrast.

 

[sojournerphoto]

Sorry D76 1+3, 24 mins agitate atvstart and 12, EI 64.

Lovely tonality and scannnable.

Mike

 

[taemo]

If the exposures on the film are not clearly distinguished from each other, by exposure leaving an obvious frame gap, then many scanners can't see where one frame ends and another begins, some fail gracefully others less so.

each frames were properly exposed and gaps in between were clearly visible.
The V600 had no issues detecting each frames but not the Pakon, fortunately the Pakon scanned the Neopan 400 roll right afterwards so it most likely just be the Rollei 80S film which was a lot more clear and transparent than the other C-41 and B&W film that I regularly use.

 

[J enea]

If you use the film often enough, as was mentioned earlier, you get to understand it. I found that using one of the pyrocat formulas (hd or mc) at EI of 50 or beutler at 80 works best for me. Play with it a little. Its now one of the cheapest and highest quality films to buy on bulk rolls

 

[ChrisLivsey]

each frames were properly exposed and gaps in between were clearly visible.
The V600 had no issues detecting each frames but not the Pakon, fortunately the Pakon scanned the Neopan 400 roll right afterwards so it most likely just be the Rollei 80S film which was a lot more clear and transparent than the other C-41 and B&W film that I regularly use.

Thanks for that, I have no experience of the Pakon, although it is highly regarded for speed and convenience, must be a quirk.

 

[ashfaque]

Hi taemo,

I think I read either here or on APUG about a Pakon usergroup or something who mains some software. They may even have a Facebook/yahoo group. Perhaps you can find some solution about it over there.

Pakon price seems to have gone quite a lot. I remember seeing them sold under $50 1-2 years ago!

PS
Going back to Retro 80S: Aurélien suggested that the film can also produce good results with HC-110 ("easy preparation, not expensive developer, and good compromise: use HC110")
- ISO 160, dilution H at 24 deg C. for 11 minutes
- ISO 80, dilution H at 24 deg C. for 10 minutes

I think you'll find the .pdf through Maco/Google.

 

[f16sunshine]

Where is the best place to buy this film online.... Maco-direct ??
I'm ready to re-load my 120 stock. Maybe 50 rolls or so.
It's almost $10 a roll at freestyle 😱
Maco-direct gets it down to about $4.50 with post.
Any other suggestions?

 

[Mablo]

Macodirekt is the best option AFAIK. Keep in mind that "Rollei Superpan 200" is *exactly* the same film. They only changed suggested developing times a little. Sometimes you get one or the other a bit cheaper.

 

[ashfaque]

@Andy: One more vote for Maco. Excellent price and service. Not sure if it would work, but send them an email to see if they'll give you a special deal.

RPX 25 is worth trying too. So far I tried it on 35mm with SPUR Acurol-N, and SPUR HRX. Very small grain size. Richard (aka, 'Regular Rod' at flickr, APUG and others) posted some excellent photos of RPX 25 + Obsidian Aqua (staining developer) combo. The grain is almost non-existent in 120. 🙂

 

[Whateverist]

I get all my film and chemicals from MacoDirect. Partially for the competitive price and excellent service, partially because they always throw in some candy.

 

[J enea]

Maco is still the best option for us US people. even with shipping the film is almost half the price of B&H and Freestyle. Not sure why though, guess its a large mark up? remember you dont pay the VAT so the price is 19% less. log in and you will see the price drop

 

[Fotohuis]

Rollei Retro 80S and 400S are aerial-films.
They have an S-shaped curve and are very hard. If ya want to have greytones expose them at half speed.
And yes, the material is clear PET.

Correct. In fact Rollei Retro 80(S) is an iso 40 film and the Rollei Retro 400(S) an iso 160-200 film. A steep logD curve so you will need a low contrast type developer as already mentioned here. R.L.C. , ATM-49, Caffenol, Diafine.