kb244
Well-known
Had a 'duh' realization with the shutter speed tester.
I shouldn't be hand-holding the phone/photoplug while testing the speed. Since much like camera shake, the 'eye' of the sensor moving away from a static position relative to the exposure could alter the reading to be longer/shorter.
So I set the camera, light, and phone on a level surface, and tested each speed 4x for consistency.
If I had to guess, (I don't know my stops that well beyond full/half) I would say the speeds given for 1/1,000 are roughly +2/3 a stop brighter, but course the photoplug isn't designed to test over 1/500th (probably because of the width of it). But just from the look of it everything seems to be within 1/3-stop or less to their target speed when keeping everything still in testing. And as Fixcinater mentioned, it probably wasn't that fast to begin with brand new at 1/1,000th.
1/1000* (~2/3?) = 1/609.5, 1/599.5, 1/617.6, 1/632.5
1/500 (1/3~1/2) = 1/382.8, 1/380.2, 1/381.2, 1/381.5
1/250 = 1/235.9, 1/231.6, 1/231.7, 1/230.5
1/125 = 1/112, 1/111.7, 1/112.3, 1/111.7
1/60 = 1/54.8, 1/54.5, 1/54.5, 1/54.6
1/30 = 1/28.6, 1/29.0, 1/28.9, 1/28.9
1/15 (-1/3) = 1/18.5, 1/18.7, 1/18.7, 1/18.7
1/8 (1/3) = 1/6, 1/6.3, 1/6.5, 1/6.3
1/4 (1/3) = 1/3.4, 1/3.4, 1/3.4, 1/3.4
1/2 = 1/2.2, 1/2.2, 1/2.2, 1/2.2
1" (-1/3) = 1/1.3, 1/1.3, 1/1.3, 1/1.3
* The photoplug is not designed to read above 1/500th.
Just deciding if I want to go HP5+ or FP4+ in it.
I shouldn't be hand-holding the phone/photoplug while testing the speed. Since much like camera shake, the 'eye' of the sensor moving away from a static position relative to the exposure could alter the reading to be longer/shorter.
So I set the camera, light, and phone on a level surface, and tested each speed 4x for consistency.
If I had to guess, (I don't know my stops that well beyond full/half) I would say the speeds given for 1/1,000 are roughly +2/3 a stop brighter, but course the photoplug isn't designed to test over 1/500th (probably because of the width of it). But just from the look of it everything seems to be within 1/3-stop or less to their target speed when keeping everything still in testing. And as Fixcinater mentioned, it probably wasn't that fast to begin with brand new at 1/1,000th.
1/1000* (~2/3?) = 1/609.5, 1/599.5, 1/617.6, 1/632.5
1/500 (1/3~1/2) = 1/382.8, 1/380.2, 1/381.2, 1/381.5
1/250 = 1/235.9, 1/231.6, 1/231.7, 1/230.5
1/125 = 1/112, 1/111.7, 1/112.3, 1/111.7
1/60 = 1/54.8, 1/54.5, 1/54.5, 1/54.6
1/30 = 1/28.6, 1/29.0, 1/28.9, 1/28.9
1/15 (-1/3) = 1/18.5, 1/18.7, 1/18.7, 1/18.7
1/8 (1/3) = 1/6, 1/6.3, 1/6.5, 1/6.3
1/4 (1/3) = 1/3.4, 1/3.4, 1/3.4, 1/3.4
1/2 = 1/2.2, 1/2.2, 1/2.2, 1/2.2
1" (-1/3) = 1/1.3, 1/1.3, 1/1.3, 1/1.3
* The photoplug is not designed to read above 1/500th.
Just deciding if I want to go HP5+ or FP4+ in it.
retinax
Well-known
Nice! So your shutter speeds are good! I would test the 1/1000 with film, compare if e.g. f/8@1/250 gives the same density as f/4@1/1000. Chances are that the shutter speed tester really isn't that accurate for 1/1000, it might actually be better. I don't see why the high speeds on a focal plane shutter should be more problematic (except concerning even exposure). The slit just gets narrower, the curtains don't need to move faster. Maybe that idea comes from leaf shutters, which certainly have a harder time at higher speeds? I'm just guessing this though, better listen to people with experience. Anyway your shutter seems plenty good for neg film.
As you've been using a P also with 35mm lens, I'd like to hear your opinion about the viewfinders of the P and 7. I've read lots of opinions that the P is hard to use with 35mm, but some seem to disagree... do you need to move your eye around a lot to see what's in the frame? Otoh, how accurate do you find framing on the 7 for a 100 or 135?
As you've been using a P also with 35mm lens, I'd like to hear your opinion about the viewfinders of the P and 7. I've read lots of opinions that the P is hard to use with 35mm, but some seem to disagree... do you need to move your eye around a lot to see what's in the frame? Otoh, how accurate do you find framing on the 7 for a 100 or 135?
kb244
Well-known
I haven't even tested the 100/135 frame lines. But I have tested the 50, since I have the lens for that, and I recently developed a roll of HP5+ off of it (as well as a test shot of Kodak UltraTec this afternoon confirming that my focus was 'off' after my latest adjustment, I really need to just not fool with that once it's good)
If I didn't mind taking the top cover off again (would rather not, considering it was a pain to get back on and keep the ASA dial and meter positions accurate), I would break the shellac hold on the prism and reposition it until it matched the ground glass framing. I might after the semester ends, but for now I just figure it's 1 corner width off to the left.
In regards to the 35mm line on the P, for me at least (right-eyed viewer), it always seemed like it was just out of view, not sure if it was because I tend to hold the camera closer to my eye or not. Never really had a problem with 50+ as most people would say, and I didn't use a 35mm when I had the P, even though I had a CV Ulton 35/1.7 for a short while. It was either a 50/1.8, or on the wide side I was always using a CV 21/4 color skopar or the CV 15/4.5 super-wide heliar which I just mainly used an attachable viewfinder that was included (which course won't fit on a Canon 7... no accessory shoe).
I do like how bright the 7's viewfinder is to use, the magnification seems larger, and the 35mm frame lines are easy to see (though they're almost right up against the edge of the frame, only slight movement for parallax, I figured given my issue with the prism that I had to secure in place, I would just consider the whole viewfinder as my '35mm with margin')
The blue line represents the actual exposure. The viewfinder view was captured with my phone at the time of taking the shots for my 'technical assignment' where we have to do one metered shot, 5 over, 5 under, and I decided I would frame a white poster board within the frame lines to test that as well while I was at it. I knew it was off to the left I just wasn't absolutely sure by how much.
Some other shots off that HP5+ roll (developed with the school supplied Sprint 1:9 developer, I prefer HC-110, a nicer grain result as I don't usually expect crunchy grain from HP5+ but rather from Tri-X depending on the developer).
These are all scans of the negatives by the way, so there's a bit of tweaking in photoshop etc. I did print a couple of them at school, but the prints are there and not here. I did note all my exposure settings for each frame though, as well as roughly where I focused the rangefinder.
1/30 @ f/2 (Canon 50mm f/1.8 Type 6)
Focus was on her pinned up hair, but from all my shots I noticed that the actual focus was a little closer (Especially when I looked at results from the 35/2.8 when outside at longer distances).
1 second @ f/16 (Canon 50mm f/1.8 Type 6)
Focus was the front left corner of the rug, course at f/16 you probably couldn't pinpoint the center.
Incident meter at that location metered for 1/60 @ f/2 (The internal reflected selenium meter said the same)
1/250 @ f/5.6 (Canon Serenar 35mm f/2.8)
Incident meter gave halfway between f/5.6 and f/8, the Canon reflected meter said f/22, which makes sense given the scene.
Focus point was on the second parking sign up by the person.
1/250 @ f/11 (Canon Serenar 35mm f/2.8)
Focus was on the light pole with the sticker.
1/500 @ f/11 (wasn't metered, too bright facing the sun for the internal, and incident wouldn't tell me the ground, so I guessed it).
Focus point was on the circular structure of the church.
Here's the negative sheet photographed on a light table (hence the glare at the bottom of the page).
The exposures are as follows:
2A to 5A : 1/30th @ f/2 or f/1.8 (I think I opened up to f/1.8 after the second shot)
The metered +0, 5 over, 5 under set (Did shutter changes for over, and aperture changes for under)
6A (+0) : 1/60 f/2.8
7A (+1) : 1/30 f/2.8
8A (+2) : 1/15 f/2.8
9A (+3) : 1/8 f/2.8
10A (+4) : 1/4 f/2.8
11A (+5) : 1/2 f/2.8
12A (-1) : 1/60 f/4
13A (-2) : 1/60 f/5.6
14A (-3) : 1/60 f/8
15A (-4) : 1/60 f/11
16A (-5) : 1/60 f/16
Depth of field test (assignment didn't have anything too specific just to have varying dof). The focus point was the lid on top of the Fomacitro bottle. The metered reading from the incident meter (Minolta AutoMeter IVf) positioned at the fomacitro bottle was 1/60 f/2.0, and the reading from the Canon 7 was 1/60 f/2.0
17A : 1/60 f/2
18A : 1/30 f/2.8
19A : 1/15 f/4
20A : 1/8 f/5.6
21A : 1/4 f/8
"Motion" test (just varying shutter speeds to show effect on motion, the usual 101 stuff)
22A : 1/8 f/5.6 (incident meter at target location was 1/60 f/2 for ISO 400)
23A : 1/30 f/2.8
24A : 1 second f/16
Up until this point they were all with the Canon 50/1.8, it's the Canon 35/2.8 after this point. Outside was a mix of overcast and partly cloudy, so the lighting conditions kept changing every few minutes around a stop or so.
25A to 27A : 1/500 f/8
28A : 1/1000 f/8 (cloud cover changed during exposure)
29A : 1/500 f/5.6
30A : 1/250 f/11
31A : 1/250 f/11 (incident meter f/5.6, reflected f/16)
32A : 1/250 f/5.6
33A : 1/250 f/5.6 (incident halfway between f/5.6 and f/8, reflected f/22)
34A : 1/125 f/11 (incident f/11, reflected above f/22)
35A : 1/250 f/8
36A : 1/500 f/11
After I tested the Ultratec film earlier today I noticed that the Konica ground glass prism method of adjusting the rangefinder wasn't giving me correct results, I took the camera down to the south end of the building where the window has the most visible clearance of the city and spotted the furthest church steeple I could see and locked my 50/1.8 to infinity and just simply adjusted the rangefinder for that. Then brought the camera/tripod back to the digital lab, laid down two yard sticks on the ground from the white board, placing the center of the camera's reference mark roughly above the 33 inch line of the second ruler (69 inches total) and focused on a thin crosshair on the whiteboard. Checked the lens, right on the 1.75 meter mark = 5.74147 feet = 68.89 inches. So the rangefinder focused at the correct distance as the lens marking on the short distance test (I'll just want to get another roll thru it to be sure).
Oh by the way this is one of the Ultratec Frames off the Canon 35mm f/2.8, exposed with 1 second @ f/2.8 (incident meter was 1 second at halfway between f/2.8 and f/4, but being blue-sensitive film, I'm not sure how much I can rely on a panchromatic meter reading). I developed in by inspection in the tray with HC-110 dilution B at 64F for 4 minutes with regular agitation.
Interesting thing about Ultratec, its ektar base develops clear. So I'm going to have to see how it behaves when I get it into the enlarger.
Edit:
By the way this is the three out-the-window shots I did on the ultratec film in the Canon 7. The focus was on the GRCC logo in the distant center, which is clearly not in focus on a larger scan but rather it's on the trees/front of the parking garage (seeing this and the other frames is what prompted me to just focus the RF to infinity and just lock the lens and not bother with the ground glass as others have suggested earlier).
Also bare in mind, I was winging it with the development time and temperature, I'm still looking for that ideal ISO/exposure (or alternatively development time/temp/dilution) for the best exposure. The metering was basically take my digital, point it out there center-average, and see where I sat for a 'safe' middle range which ended up being 1/500, f/5.6 at ISO 200, which I just figured 1/125 f/2 at ISO 6 as my starting point.
Frame 1: 1/125 f/2
Frame 2 : 1/60 f/2 (cloud cover changed slightly after this dimming the sun a little)
Frame 3 : 1/30 f/2
kb244
Well-known
Focus works.
Kodak TMax P3200 (expired in 2004), shot as 400, developed as 3200 in HC-110 Dil.B 68F 10.5 Minutes (basically the aging required me to shoot a lower EI, I essentially have two bricks of usable 400 speed film with gritty grain).
Kodak Ultratec (blue sensitive only), ISO 3, developed in HC-110 Dil B, 68F, 5 minutes.
Even with the Alien Bee (only a 160w/s model) at full power and less than 3 feet, it barely had enough light for ISO 3 at f/2.0. Canon 50mm f/1.8
Oh and the flash sync ( at "X" ) and self timer works obviously.
Kodak TMax P3200 (expired in 2004), shot as 400, developed as 3200 in HC-110 Dil.B 68F 10.5 Minutes (basically the aging required me to shoot a lower EI, I essentially have two bricks of usable 400 speed film with gritty grain).
Kodak Ultratec (blue sensitive only), ISO 3, developed in HC-110 Dil B, 68F, 5 minutes.
Even with the Alien Bee (only a 160w/s model) at full power and less than 3 feet, it barely had enough light for ISO 3 at f/2.0. Canon 50mm f/1.8
Oh and the flash sync ( at "X" ) and self timer works obviously.