Kiev 88

[Bob L]

Just purchased a Kiev 88 which is on it's way to me now, I know that the shutter speeds on my Zorki, Fed and even my 35mm Kiev's should only be changed after the shutter is wound, from what I have been able to find out it seem as this is what you have to do with the Kiev 88, if anyone know please let me know if this is so.

 

[Ash]

I guess the easiest test is to see whether the shutter speed dial rotates when you release the shutter.

If that whole mechanism rotates when winding/cocking the shutter, then yep. If it doesnt, then you could chance adjusting speed before winding.


After a while I've found that I only adjust shutter speed after winding anyway. Maybe it was thanks to a clunky old Zenit-E 🙂

this may be a good read - http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/manuals/Kiev_88_2.htm

 

[rbiemer]

Just purchased a Kiev 88 which is on it's way to me now, I know that the shutter speeds on my Zorki, Fed and even my 35mm Kiev's should only be changed after the shutter is wound, from what I have been able to find out it seem as this is what you have to do with the Kiev 88, if anyone know please let me know if this is so.

I don't know but here is a page of links that should help:
ARAX PHOTO LINK PAGE .
The first link there will take you to the Manuals.
Rob

 

[jacema]

Check this place out - those guys are devoted to KIevs.

http://www.kievaholic.com/

Jacques

 

[lushd]

Hi - congratulations on your purchase. I have had one for years and had great results from it. It's a great camera for those with the enthusiasm necessary to get the best from it, like nearly all the FSU machines. You should stick to the wind on/change speed routine.

 

[rxmd]

Hi,

whether shutter speeds should only be set after winding on the Kiev 88 is a matter of some debate. It's a bit complicated because people don't usually specify whether they're referring to unmodified Kiev 88s or to "improved" models with different, "tuned" shutter mechanisms or with mirror lock-up added. That's why there are so many conflicting reports.

On my 1985 Kiev 88 body with an unmodified shutter mechanism, I can turn the speed wheel both ways and it makes no difference if I set shutter speeds before or after winding.

On the other hand, for example there was a series of early MLU Kiev 88's by Hartblei where both would break the shutter instantly. This is why the remark is in the Arax manual.

In general, it's probably good practice to stick to the same routine as with early FEDs and Zorkies, that is: change shutter speeds only after winding (and only set shutter speeds by turning the wheel clockwise). Even if it makes no difference with your particular Kiev 88 body, building up this kind of routine could help you if you ever use other FSU cameras or if you ever get to shoot with a friend's modified Kiev 88.

The Kiev is a great camera. Well, it's not really that great, but it's enormous fun to shoot with and the optics are cheap. I love mine and have taken some of my best pictures with it. The best thing is the cheap glass; I have bought a 3,5/65 for 65 EUR, a 4/50 MC Flektogon which is outright amazing for 120 EUR and a 2,8/180 Sonnar for 45 EUR. It's simply impossibly to beat this with any other medium format system. However, to use those, you have to have your Kiev 88 modified and fitted with a Pentacon Six mount, which is somewhat expensive.

If you're seriously interested in medium format SLRs, you might look at either the Kiev 60 (which is bigger and has no exchangeable backs, but also less trouble with the same, and is considerably more sturdy and has a Pentacon Six mount for using Carl Zeiss Jena lenses) or used Bronica or Hasselblad 500 gear. Both of the latter are technically better cameras, and gear has become available at low prices because of professionals ditching these systems for digital. Glass is somewhat more expensive, though. The nice thing about the Bronica is that it has a focal plane shutter and a dual lens mount, which makes it easy to adapt all kinds of weird lenses from other cameras (folders, large format or whatever).

You might also want to read the Kiev Report forum (http://forums.delphiforums.com/kievreport) and the excellent Medium Format Megasite (http://medfmt.8k.com).

Philipp

 

[claidemore]

Never, Never, Never, change shutter speed on a Kiev 88 unless the shutter is cocked! It will break....and the repair is expensive.

Check the delphiforums and download an online manual, every experienced Kiev 88 user will tell you the same thing.

With Kiev 60/6C on the other hand, you can change shutter speed whenever you want.

 

[rxmd]

Hi Jean-Marc (is that right?),

if I ever come to Alberta, I can bring my Kiev 88 along and show you that at least with body #8509448 it works just fine.

The main problem with the Kiev 88 is IMHO not that the mechanism is fragile (which it is), but that the behaviour is so inconsistent. It's really a funky camera. The fact that some models are modified while others aren't doesn't help either. Everybody will recommend to build up good practice (wind, speed, shoot) and not to experiment around. I only found out by accident because I gave the body to a fried who set the shutter speed without checking the little window.

Philipp

 

[sunsworth]

In my experience you'll save yourself a lot of heartache and frustration by buying a 'proper' MF camera such as Mamiya, Bronica, Hassie etc. I've owned a couple of the Kiev 88s and the other SLR model. All were junk With what I spent I could have bought a Hassie and saved myself a lot of frustration.

Maybe I was unlucky

Steve

 

[zhang xk]

You can not change shutter speeds before winding on a Kiev 88. If you force it , it may cause demage to the camera!! It is best for any Kiev 88 users to be able to fix the camera by himself. Many times, it is an easy fix if you know how the camera works. Otherwise, one may have to spend many times more for repair.

I found some worn parts were used on some brand new cameras. These cameras usually won't last long.

Before I knew it, I had 7 Kiev 88s. :bang: Now I am waiting for a low cost digital back. 😀

 

[rxmd]

Hi Zhang,

I've got two bodies, #8509448 and #8804724. With the 1985 body it works. With the 1988 body, it doesn't, but at least on that body you can't help noticing because you meet considerable resistance already when you attempt to lift the wheel to set the speed. On that particular body you can't turn the speed wheel backwards either, there is resistance after about 20 degrees.

So if you're careful, you would notice when you're about to break something, at least on that body. (I guess it would be risky to extrapolate from this particular camera that there is resistance on all other cameras, too.)

So there is considerable variation here. I haven't taken either body apart. The 1985 body has been at Arax, for a CLA and installation of the Pentacon Six mount. The 1988 body has been repaired by an Egyptian repairman (Labib) in Cairo.

Anyway, whoever still builds a shutter in the 1980s that can be broken just by setting it the wrong way and/or at the wrong time should really redo their work.

Kiev 88 mechanics are always good for some discussion 🙂 There may be better cameras for the money, but no other camera gives you that much to talk about.

Philipp

 

[zhang xk]

Hi Zhang,

I've got two bodies, #8509448 and #8804724. With the 1985 body it works. With the 1988 body, it doesn't, but at least on that body you can't help noticing because you meet considerable resistance already when you attempt to lift the wheel to set the speed. On that particular body you can't turn the speed wheel backwards either, there is resistance after about 20 degrees.

So if you're careful, you would notice when you're about to break something, at least on that body. (I guess it would be risky to extrapolate from this particular camera that there is resistance on all other cameras, too.)

So there is considerable variation here. I haven't taken either body apart. The 1985 body has been at Arax, for a CLA and installation of the Pentacon Six mount. The 1988 body has been repaired by an Egyptian repairman (Labib) in Cairo.

Anyway, whoever still builds a shutter in the 1980s that can be broken just by setting it the wrong way and/or at the wrong time should really redo their work.

Kiev 88 mechanics are always good for some discussion 🙂 There may be better cameras for the money, but no other camera gives you that much to talk about.

Philipp

Hi Phillipp,

Your 8509448 Kiev 88 is a strange beast. Kiev 88 (also Saliut)was designed that way that you can't lift the shutter speed wheel before winding.

Also it is preferrable to set the speeds in one way because of the play for the speed setting gears. Sometimes, if you change directions frequently, you can't push down the shutter button. I have dis-assembled down to each screws and rebuilt quite a few Kiev 88s so that now I am not afraid that a Kiev 88 is malfunctioning. I completely destroyed my 1st $500 Kiev 88 that has worn parts inside. Kiev 88 is a delicate camera, but good ones could perform well for quite a long time.

Cheers,

Zhang

 

[Bob L]

Thanks all for the information, it looks like the safe way is to wind the shutter and then change the shutter speeds, it's what I do now with all my FSU cameras so won't be any didfferent from what I have been doing.
Will have to watch that I advance only in a CW direction.

 

[zhang xk]

Some weird macro lenses for a Kiev 88

Some weird macro lenses for a Kiev 88

Here are some 135mm lenses and a Zeiss Mikrotar 45/4.5 lens used on a Kiev 88 for macro photos with a focusing tube(China made) FYI. 😛