Konica auto s3 rangefinder front glass cracked

[HOG]

Hi there,

My s3 has a crack (see image) and not sure what to do about it. The obvious would be to purchase another on the "cheap" and replace the glass, however we know that these cameras fetch a price. I had 2 ideas that I wanted to run by some of the more advanced people on here before I do anything.

Option 1. Use windshield crack adhesive and fix the crack as best as I can.

Option 2. Buy some clear Perspex and cut to shape.

Or is there another rangefinder I could use as parts that would fit the s3?

Such a shame since the camera is almost in mint condition...

Any ideas are welcome. Thanks

 

[Darthfeeble]

I have an S2 that has a stuck shutter wind and a missing flash shoe. If it will work I will sell cheap.

 

[HOG]

I have an S2 that has a stuck shutter wind and a missing flash shoe. If it will work I will sell cheap.

Thanks for the option, but I think S2 is bigger then the s3? Plus depending where you're located (I'm in Australia) shipping could blow the budget.

 

[maigo]

Are there any special optical characteristics to the glass?
If not, can you find a nearby custom glass shop to cut you a replacement?

Otherwise, leave it alone and just shoot and enjoy for now, not potential future value.
It is not a Noctilux after all.

 

[HOG]

Are there any special optical characteristics to the glass?
If not, can you find a nearby custom glass shop to cut you a replacement?

Otherwise, leave it alone and just shoot and enjoy for now, not potential future value.
It is not a Noctilux after all.

Not sure about the optical characteristics. Leaving alone is an option, but it would bother the crap out of me lol. Also I don't want to endlessly take the top off to clean the dust out.

 

[Mark Schretlen]

I have both a Konica S3 and a Konica C35. The S3 has a slightly larger viewfinder window (maybe 1 to 2 mm lengthwise) however the recess that holds the glass in place looks like it is the exact same size. Perhaps the C35 glass could replace the S3 glass. A non-functioning Konica C35 should be cheap and relatively easy to find - I'm guessing millions of C35s vs thousands of S3s.

 

[splitimageview]

Edmund optics will have the appropriate glass that can be cut to size.

I fixed a Nikon SP viewfinder window using their glass.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

If you can live with a join in the glass (I assume the piece incorporating the rangefinder window is one and the same piece) the easiest solution is to get some microscope slide or cover glass, cut it to size and butt next to the remainder (cut square of course).

If you have to remake the whole window it could be done although it would be tedious. I'd probably mask off one side of the clear opening for the RF at a time with tape as I applied a grind to the glass by hand with cerium oxide. Fiddly but do-able, sharpness of the clear window would depend on your patience and care. But it would certainly be easier to make the remainder opaque than to try and grind it all and clear a rectangle later—much easier.

You can get microscope glass and covers cheaply from various sources including eBay. I bought some for literally a dollar or so in auctions, enough to do dozens of such jobs.

 

[j.scooter]

You may want to reach out to Greg Weber. He is a Konica specialist and he has done work to my S3.

his email is gweber(at)webercamera.com

 

[splitimageview]

Cut some miicroscope slide glass to fit, or glass from a Gepe slide mount.

 

[HOG]

I have both a Konica S3 and a Konica C35. The S3 has a slightly larger viewfinder window (maybe 1 to 2 mm lengthwise) however the recess that holds the glass in place looks like it is the exact same size. Perhaps the C35 glass could replace the S3 glass. A non-functioning Konica C35 should be cheap and relatively easy to find - I'm guessing millions of C35s vs thousands of S3s.

Thanks for the reply. I recently found out that the c35FD is exactly the same size as the s3 body and viewfinder glass. Keeping an eye out for a banged up one on the cheap

 

[HOG]

If you can live with a join in the glass (I assume the piece incorporating the rangefinder window is one and the same piece) the easiest solution is to get some microscope slide or cover glass, cut it to size and butt next to the remainder (cut square of course).

If you have to remake the whole window it could be done although it would be tedious. I'd probably mask off one side of the clear opening for the RF at a time with tape as I applied a grind to the glass by hand with cerium oxide. Fiddly but do-able, sharpness of the clear window would depend on your patience and care. But it would certainly be easier to make the remainder opaque than to try and grind it all and clear a rectangle later—much easier.

You can get microscope glass and covers cheaply from various sources including eBay. I bought some for literally a dollar or so in auctions, enough to do dozens of such jobs.

Thanks, yes I've recently learnt that microscope slides do work a treat, so will be going down this root until I find an c35FD or an s3 go cheap. For the rangefinder I was going use either frosted window film or even try frosted tape and see how that goes. I may even experiment with what you've mentioned above since the slides come in either 50 or 100 pieces.

 

[Sarcophilus Harrisii]

Thanks, yes I've recently learnt that microscope slides do work a treat, so will be going down this root until I find an c35FD or an s3 go cheap. For the rangefinder I was going use either frosted window film or even try frosted tape and see how that goes. I may even experiment with what you've mentioned above since the slides come in either 50 or 100 pieces.

No probs. I usually grind glass by lapping two pieces gently together in a slurry of oxide and water. You could certainly use this technique for a part of the glass but it is obviously not specific. I'd be inclined to leave the area around the clear window alone and then patiently dress it with some slurry on cotton tips. By being gentle, and patient, you ought to be able to get an even amount of opacity, without occluding your patch window that you will of course need to mask off. It would be a fiddly job, but with some persistence you should be able to achieve a result similar to the original part.
Cheers
Brett

 

[HOG]

No probs. I usually grind glass by lapping two pieces gently together in a slurry of oxide and water. You could certainly use this technique for a part of the glass but it is obviously not specific. I'd be inclined to leave the area around the clear window alone and then patiently dress it with some slurry on cotton tips. By being gentle, and patient, you ought to be able to get an even amount of opacity, without occluding your patch window that you will of course need to mask off. It would be a fiddly job, but with some persistence you should be able to achieve a result similar to the original part.
Cheers
Brett

Thanks Brett for the comprehensive suggestion. Great tips to try out which I'm sure would end up very close to the original glass! I'm definitely going to try this out when I've acquired the tools to complete this.

I'll post a mini step by step for others to use when I'm confident and happy with the results