FrankS
Registered User
peepoo said:
As with the black model, it depends solely on the filter - location of glass within the filter ring actually.
Revolucion Artistico
Established
Do the B+W filters cause this as well. I knew about the close focus filter proplem but I ordered one anyway figuring I could always just step back a couple feet if needed.
kuvvy
Well-known
I have the Silver version fitted with a B+W UV filter and it has never caused any problems.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Best thing about the Hexar is a central shutter, no curtain flashing by. This means no one-direction movement in the camera, and allows for slow shutterspeed shooting.
If you have a digital SLR, try practising shooting without a tripod on slow speeds. You might find that after some practice, you can shoot at 1/13th of a second reasonably successfull.
At 2.0 and ASA 100, you can master many situations at 1/30th safely, and take the occasional chance to shoot at less.
My camera is loaded with ASA 100 Konica Impresa Portrait of with Kodak E100G slide film all the time. The occasional B&W film is T-Max 100.
Top sharpness at 2.0 with great bokeh.
Writing this makes me realise I again have collected too much gear, so the Canonet 17 G-III QL, the Konica C35 automatic, the Fujica 35ES set and the Mamiya Super Deluxe 1.7 will have to go soon. Any takers? PM welcome before they're promoted to the Great 'Bay...
If you have a digital SLR, try practising shooting without a tripod on slow speeds. You might find that after some practice, you can shoot at 1/13th of a second reasonably successfull.
At 2.0 and ASA 100, you can master many situations at 1/30th safely, and take the occasional chance to shoot at less.
My camera is loaded with ASA 100 Konica Impresa Portrait of with Kodak E100G slide film all the time. The occasional B&W film is T-Max 100.
Top sharpness at 2.0 with great bokeh.
Writing this makes me realise I again have collected too much gear, so the Canonet 17 G-III QL, the Konica C35 automatic, the Fujica 35ES set and the Mamiya Super Deluxe 1.7 will have to go soon. Any takers? PM welcome before they're promoted to the Great 'Bay...
JTK
Established
Save money, eliminate risk, get it with a warrenty. I did. KEH
DeeCee3
Established
Check the Classifieds if you're interested in a Hexar with silent mode. One's listed there today (18 Sept 08) at a good price.
dc3
dc3
ampguy
Veteran
one of the nicest features
one of the nicest features
of the HAF is the close focus (.6m). Certain off the shelf filters will work, but I'd only recommend the factory metal shim spacer, or no filter.
one of the nicest features
of the HAF is the close focus (.6m). Certain off the shelf filters will work, but I'd only recommend the factory metal shim spacer, or no filter.
ampguy
Veteran
Lumix lx3 - anyone have one yet?
Lumix lx3 - anyone have one yet?
with only 10mp, f2 lens, 1/1.6" sensor, 24mm wide, short range zoom, seems to be going in the right direction for digicams.
Lumix lx3 - anyone have one yet?
with only 10mp, f2 lens, 1/1.6" sensor, 24mm wide, short range zoom, seems to be going in the right direction for digicams.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
easy trick with a filter?
easy trick with a filter?
I have seen about two dozens of Hexars come and go (I used to sell them on *bay) but have never seen the factory metal shim spacer. Seems these were fitted into the front assembly of the lens, thus making the whole assembly protrude slightly more. The front lens then would no longer jam into the filter.
Since these shims seem to be around no more, here's a simple trick that so far has never left me down: get another filter, preferably a scratched one, and knock out the glass. Fit the empty ring on your camera, and fit the filter on top of that. You're done! Happy shooting!
easy trick with a filter?
I have seen about two dozens of Hexars come and go (I used to sell them on *bay) but have never seen the factory metal shim spacer. Seems these were fitted into the front assembly of the lens, thus making the whole assembly protrude slightly more. The front lens then would no longer jam into the filter.
Since these shims seem to be around no more, here's a simple trick that so far has never left me down: get another filter, preferably a scratched one, and knock out the glass. Fit the empty ring on your camera, and fit the filter on top of that. You're done! Happy shooting!
takeda72
Established
OK.
So now I only shoot with a M6 and a 50 Summicron and a 35 Nokton.
Now I want to buy a film point and shoot. I had a Minilux, but I sold it.
My options here in Argentina are: Konica Hexar AF, Contax T2 and Nikon 35 ti. I can find also the cheap Olympus Stylus Epic - I had one and it was fun.
So can you give me your advice? I want this camera to shoot in colour (I have a lot of Fuji Reala and Kodak 400 UC on the fridge).
Thanks so much.
So now I only shoot with a M6 and a 50 Summicron and a 35 Nokton.
Now I want to buy a film point and shoot. I had a Minilux, but I sold it.
My options here in Argentina are: Konica Hexar AF, Contax T2 and Nikon 35 ti. I can find also the cheap Olympus Stylus Epic - I had one and it was fun.
So can you give me your advice? I want this camera to shoot in colour (I have a lot of Fuji Reala and Kodak 400 UC on the fridge).
Thanks so much.
Meakin
Established
If you can live with the size and the slow top shutter speed of the Hexar AF......thats the one I would go for (and did!). YMMV.
Cheers,
Meakin
Cheers,
Meakin
kuvvy
Well-known
takeda72, I have a Hexar Silver, a Contax T2 and just sold my Nikon 35Ti. I preferred the better viewfinder of the T2 to the Ti. All are excellent cameras and sharp as hell. I have an Epic too which barely sees any use these days. The Hexar is of course biggest of them all but has a nice feel to it and I use it as my 'Leica'. One of my other sharp shooters is the tiny Fujifilm DL Supermini with it's 28mm lens.
Good luck with whatever you choose takeda72.
Good luck with whatever you choose takeda72.
takeda72
Established
Thanks for your advice, guys.
Monte920
Established
I have a AF Silver Date. It has the same problem! After I took the shots, there was a small bar on the date LCD window blinking. It seemed like everything worked as it should. However, after I got the pictures, no date printed!!! This is very strange!! Is there something wrong? On my part or on camera's part?
jmilkins
Digited User
I have a AF Silver Date. It has the same problem! After I took the shots, there was a small bar on the date LCD window blinking. It seemed like everything worked as it should. However, after I got the pictures, no date printed!!! This is very strange!! Is there something wrong? On my part or on camera's part?
Press the mode button on the dateback so that a date / time is displayed. This will then print on your photo I believe.
if you hold down Select button you can change the settings with the Set button.
The date back battery (CR2025 3v)might also need changing - it is inside the date back with the camera - open - you need a small screwdriver.
Monte920
Established
Thanks! I actually had done everything that you suggested. I put a brand new CR2025 in (and it measured 3.2V on my meter). The date was displayed. The small bar above the date blinked after each shot. Everything seemed to work normally except no real printing! How strange and frustrating!!! :bang: