Gid
Well-known
ampguy said:
Can't remember the serial number, but it had a small scratch on the body at front left. I always found the metering to be on the money. All this talk is making me think I made a mistake selling it
furcafe
Veteran
No, the Hexar RF sounds just like a Contax G2 (very similar construction, probably same OEM factory/factories in Japan), only without the autofocus noise, of course. As others have posted, the noisiest thing is the film advance, not the shutter itself, which is well-damped. I would say it's actually quieter than the M8 overall.
RayPA said:
ampguy
Veteran
yes, this has a ding
yes, this has a ding
on the top near the shutter, and like many, paint is flaking off the titanium bottom. I want an M film body for backup, and am having trouble deciding if it should be an M4P or the Hexar RF. One thing for sure is if it were my primary camera it would be the RF, if for no other reason for giving me perfect exposures and not wasting film.
yes, this has a ding
on the top near the shutter, and like many, paint is flaking off the titanium bottom. I want an M film body for backup, and am having trouble deciding if it should be an M4P or the Hexar RF. One thing for sure is if it were my primary camera it would be the RF, if for no other reason for giving me perfect exposures and not wasting film.
Gid said:Can't remember the serial number, but it had a small scratch on the body at front left. I always found the metering to be on the money. All this talk is making me think I made a mistake selling it
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
Flyfisher Tom said:Ray you beat me to the Karen Nakamura citation !
cheers
Her site is the first one I think about when referring to the Hexar. For some reason my bookmark to her site comes up with the Hexar RF picture.
venchka
Veteran
SHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! We are collectively driving the price up by the minute!
Gid
Well-known
ampguy said:
I just checked the classifieds and saw that Andy has just sold my ex hexar, so yours must have a different heritage (mine had no dings:angel: )
If your going for a back up to the Hexar, then get a body with AE unless you're less easily confused than I am (that is if you're going to take both out at the same time).
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
furcafe said:
That's good. I did not like the shutter sound of my Bessa R2 (and I hated the sound the manual film advance made).
AusDLK
Famous Photographer
>Is it the same sound as the Bessa's?
No. The closest match soundwise that I'm aware of is the Xpan.
As posted elsewhere, it cannot be described as loud but I would still trust my M7 to be less noticable in a quiet environment.
No. The closest match soundwise that I'm aware of is the Xpan.
As posted elsewhere, it cannot be described as loud but I would still trust my M7 to be less noticable in a quiet environment.
Beniliam
Out of the limelight
I have use much the M6 and the Hexar RF.
In my experience I didnt see real lag problems with the Hexar and I do photos to people that normally arent stopped... Other thing is when you use the AE system. In few situations I missed the photo because you need push first slightly the shutter because the camera need metering firts and in this short space of time you can lose the image... I dont know if other cameras with AE mode have the same ´problem´. I remeber the Oly Xa or Canonet or the Contax T have more instantaneous metering system. Its like the camera metering all the time, you dont need push the shutter for reading the light... I dont know if I explaining well... Can somebody explain me why I have the impression that the cameras that I said are more instantaneous in the AE mode?
I use leica and voigtlander lens and dont find problems. Never!
I think that this viewfinder its better to use with one 35 mm over one 50 mm. I think that 40 mm framelines had been excellent for this camera. I love the 40 mm lens and think in the great Hexanon 40 mm of the Konica SLR´s. Its a pity that didnt make a retro combo Hexar RF + 40 mm... like Rollei made.
In my experience I didnt see real lag problems with the Hexar and I do photos to people that normally arent stopped... Other thing is when you use the AE system. In few situations I missed the photo because you need push first slightly the shutter because the camera need metering firts and in this short space of time you can lose the image... I dont know if other cameras with AE mode have the same ´problem´. I remeber the Oly Xa or Canonet or the Contax T have more instantaneous metering system. Its like the camera metering all the time, you dont need push the shutter for reading the light... I dont know if I explaining well... Can somebody explain me why I have the impression that the cameras that I said are more instantaneous in the AE mode?
I use leica and voigtlander lens and dont find problems. Never!
I think that this viewfinder its better to use with one 35 mm over one 50 mm. I think that 40 mm framelines had been excellent for this camera. I love the 40 mm lens and think in the great Hexanon 40 mm of the Konica SLR´s. Its a pity that didnt make a retro combo Hexar RF + 40 mm... like Rollei made.
ghost
Well-known
well, konica deserves kudos for dampening the metal shutter better than anyone. it's the "modern" sound of the motor wind that wipes away any association with the "classic" leica m.
ben is right about having to prime the shutter. if the meter isn't active, pushing the button all the way will not take a picture. it'll just turn on the meter.
note: this is just for ae and ael. manual mode is unaffected.
ben is right about having to prime the shutter. if the meter isn't active, pushing the button all the way will not take a picture. it'll just turn on the meter.
note: this is just for ae and ael. manual mode is unaffected.
Last edited:
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
Beniliam said:I have use much the M6 and the Hexar RF.
In my experience I didnt see real lag problems with the Hexar and I do photos to people that normally arent stopped... Other thing is when you use the AE system. In few situations I missed the photo because you need push first slightly the shutter because the camera need metering firts and in this short space of time you can lose the image... I dont know if other cameras with AE mode have the same ´problem´. I remeber the Oly Xa or Canonet or the Contax T have more instantaneous metering system. Its like the camera metering all the time, you dont need push the shutter for reading the light... I dont know if I explaining well... Can somebody explain me why I have the impression that the cameras that I said are more instantaneous in the AE mode?
I use leica and voigtlander lens and dont find problems. Never!
I think that this viewfinder its better to use with one 35 mm over one 50 mm. I think that 40 mm framelines had been excellent for this camera. I love the 40 mm lens and think in the great Hexanon 40 mm of the Konica SLR´s. Its a pity that didnt make a retro combo Hexar RF + 40 mm... like Rollei made.
Really? That's interesting. (Wayne this is where we collectively jump-in to lower prices
). Most of the AE cameras I use are pretty much instantaneous. Does camera metering work without AE mode? There's an exposure lock, too—right?.
R
ray_g
Guest
Yes, you can use it like any other M (manual mode), or as you said, in AEL. I never had any problems with it, since I am used to half depressing the shutter before taking the shot.
ampguy
Veteran
also has manual metering
also has manual metering
when you're in manual mode, it shows what the meter is thinking for ss. Ultimate street auto mode with AE and AEL (with finger depression).
Mine fires whenever I push down on the shutter. Not sure why someone has one that doesn't.
also has manual metering
when you're in manual mode, it shows what the meter is thinking for ss. Ultimate street auto mode with AE and AEL (with finger depression).
Mine fires whenever I push down on the shutter. Not sure why someone has one that doesn't.
ray_g said:
ghost
Well-known
actually, that's only in manual mode. ae and ael need the meter to be on before you can take a shot. it's only a problem in those very hurried situations, which is maddening because you're always going to remember the ones that got away. somewhat defeats the purpose of automation. :bang:
ampguy
Veteran
Ok
Ok
OK, I see what you're saying. IMHO, just keep it on all the time, the meter goes off with power management when not depressed, so only turn it off when you're home or done shooting. Otherwise keep it on, it's not using much juice.
Ok
OK, I see what you're saying. IMHO, just keep it on all the time, the meter goes off with power management when not depressed, so only turn it off when you're home or done shooting. Otherwise keep it on, it's not using much juice.
ghost said:
Beniliam
Out of the limelight
One question:
Some Hexar RF ´s users have cases for the camera? Im interested to know how the shutter sound decreases with one case. The sound reduction is remarkable?
Thanks and sorry for my question
Some Hexar RF ´s users have cases for the camera? Im interested to know how the shutter sound decreases with one case. The sound reduction is remarkable?
Thanks and sorry for my question
S
StuartR
Guest
I had the Luigi case, but I don't think it made a big difference in the noise. Actually, as nice as the Luigi cases are (I use them for my M's...), I don't think they are necessary for the Hexar RF....the grip on the Hexar is very good already
Beniliam
Out of the limelight
Thank you Stuart for your answer!
Huck Finn
Well-known
I like most of what I saw on the Konica Hexar RF. I decided not to buy it because I didn't want the low magnification (0.6x). Despite this magnification, Konica chose to clutter the viewfinder with 135 mm frame lines despite the fact that such a lens is virtually unusable at this magnificaiton. Even a 90 mm lens will have focus problems at f/2 on this camera. The parts/service issue also scared me off.
ghost
Well-known
ampguy said:
i don't mean you need to keep the camera on. i mean the meter, the leds in the viewfinder.
stop those long lenses down a stop or two and you won't have a problem. or get the 75/90/135 framelines blanked out. then you've got it real good for the 28/35/50 (though i like a .72x for 50mm, even if the lens blocks more of the corner).
Last edited: