Konica IIIa shutter fails often

Understand also that old cameras don't really have a 60-year lifespan. They were manufactured when lubricants were crude, labor (assembly and repair) was cheap, and sometimes engineering was way ahead of material science (cf pot metal parts that crystallize and decay). The only reason why many old consumer-oriented cameras of yore look good today was that they were seldom used and then put away for decades. They might seem to work at a basic level but then... Even after a CLA, put them under heavy use, and you'll see a surprisingly short lifespan (or MTBF). I've had that experience much more with Retinas and other items with Compur 00s, but it's just as applicable to older Japanese cameras. Dante

Dante, as a big Konica IIIa / m fan yourself, what do you reckon I should do?

The Japanese store came back with a price that's a $100 USD above of what Greg would do it for inclusive of shipping etc.

The camera is excellent and I think if I press the shutter firm, it fires. I'll have to check my film over the weekend when I do the developing. I've been trying all sorts of speeds over the course of the week.

But actually regardless of the outcome, I'd like a CLA if I am to keep this camera.

How would the Konica stack up to a Leica M3 in built quality? If you say the Konica will not last, perhaps I better throw my money towards Leica and get something that'll last. Would that last?

Thanks
Ben

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Dante, as a big Konica IIIa / m fan yourself, what do you reckon I should do?

The Japanese store came back with a price that's a $100 USD above of what Greg would do it for inclusive of shipping etc.

The camera is excellent and I think if I press the shutter firm, it fires. I'll have to check my film over the weekend when I do the developing. I've been trying all sorts of speeds over the course of the week.

But actually regardless of the outcome, I'd like a CLA if I am to keep this camera.

How would the Konica stack up to a Leica M3 in built quality? If you say the Konica will not last, perhaps I better throw my money towards Leica and get something that'll last. Would that last?

Thanks
Ben

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The main advantage of the M3 is that the focal plane shutter is easier to source parts and repairs for, and that the M3 uses interchangeable lenses.

Having owned s few M3 cameras, as well as the Konicas, I don't really prefer one over the other. The viewfinder in the Konica is amazing, and the lens is quite nice as well. The fit and finish of the Konica is amazing, it seems no corners were cut. I often shoot with a IIIA or a IIIM, both are great cameras.
 
Hello Ben

Just under an hour ago my iiia arrived back from Greg Weber.
The work he did is beautiful.
Repaired an ailing shutter and did a complete cla/overhaul of the entire camera. As well he unlinked the EV system so now the EV ring is the aperture ring.
I have a fully manual camera with one ring for shutter and the other for aperture control.
Total price was a bargain in my opinion and he did things in a time frame that was also very reasonable. Communication was also excellent.
I just can't find a reason not to recommend him in every way.
The camera I have has the f1.8/50mm lens which I understand is easy to find parts for as well as to repair.
Which lens does your camera have?

Please excuse the iPhone pic
13137312113_44e638a76a.jpg
 
The main advantage of the M3 is that the focal plane shutter is easier to source parts and repairs for, and that the M3 uses interchangeable lenses. Having owned s few M3 cameras, as well as the Konicas, I don't really prefer one over the other. The viewfinder in the Konica is amazing, and the lens is quite nice as well. The fit and finish of the Konica is amazing, it seems no corners were cut. I often shoot with a IIIA or a IIIM, both are great cameras.

Great thanks for that! I am going for the repair then, looking forward to getting the Konica up and running.

Ben

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Hello Ben Just under an hour ago my iiia arrived back from Greg Weber. The work he did is beautiful. Repaired an ailing shutter and did a complete cla/overhaul of the entire camera. As well he unlinked the EV system so now the EV ring is the aperture ring. I have a fully manual camera with one ring for shutter and the other for aperture control. Total price was a bargain in my opinion and he did things in a time frame that was also very reasonable. Communication was also excellent. I just can't find a reason not to recommend him in every way. The camera I have has the f1.8/50mm lens which I understand is easy to find parts for as well as to repair. Which lens does your camera have? Please excuse the iPhone pic

That's beautiful, congrats! Also thanks for the review on Greg's services.
I have the 48mm 2.0 as I live In Japan and went with the domestic version. It's indeed more difficult to get repair for unfortunately. Perhaps more expensive too. I'll try to get a repair locally from Jeff who offered his services above. Very excited to have it in tip top shape!

This is a pic of my slowly growing kit...



image-1455094527.jpg


Cheers,
Ben

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Avoiding international shipping [costs of heavy camera] also is a big advantage.
That's true of course but for some reason the camera store I contacted wanted such a horrendous price even without checking the camera that Greg's prices plus shipping still looks better. Good thing Frontman turned up, I'll be meeting him this weekend and handing the camera over.

Will report back!
Ben

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Update!

Put another 2 rolls through it and made sure I press the shutter strong. This resulted in some better ratio but still missing shots.

She's going for service, meeting Jeff at 10am in the morning. I've made sure to shoot the remaining film today and the camera is ready to undergo a CLA! Very excited!

Ben

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I usually err on the side of fixing things. You can always chase another copy you think is working, but doing that can get you a bunch of cameras that are dysfunctional in different ways.

When you talk to your guy, you can let him know to leave out the EV linkage. It's just a small plate connected with two small screws and is visible when you get the front shutter retaining plate off. Then your apertures and shutter speeds will turn independently (the aperture has no click stops).

Comparing build quality between Leica and Konica is tough - they are both children of the postwar era and have similar construction in many respects (die-cast bodies, brass covers). The Konica has a lot more hand workmanship on the cosmetic parts; compare a couple and you'll see how the chromed covers are brass plate fitted up and soldered by hand. Its interior mechanics are also more crudely finished. That's not to say it's any less precise as a system than a Leica. As far as the parts wearing out, not much of a difference as long as you take care with the shutter speed selector.

One thing that is clear is that Konica's coatings and optical cement techniques were light years ahead of Leica's at the time. It received a huge technology transfer (involuntarily) from Zeiss by virtue of the postwar occupation/reconstructions; Zeiss' German competitors like Leica had to fend for themselves.

Dante

Dante, as a big Konica IIIa / m fan yourself, what do you reckon I should do?

The Japanese store came back with a price that's a $100 USD above of what Greg would do it for inclusive of shipping etc.

The camera is excellent and I think if I press the shutter firm, it fires. I'll have to check my film over the weekend when I do the developing. I've been trying all sorts of speeds over the course of the week.

But actually regardless of the outcome, I'd like a CLA if I am to keep this camera.

How would the Konica stack up to a Leica M3 in built quality? If you say the Konica will not last, perhaps I better throw my money towards Leica and get something that'll last. Would that last?

Thanks
Ben

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Dante, very interesting background, thanks a lot! I enjoy reading your comments and also the site you set up for the IIIa/m cameras.

I had tested the camera out now as film ran out and this is my finding. On a higher speed than 25-50, or somewhere there, the shutter gets stuck. It opens a bit, see the blades moving but won't clear out. Then I cock again, moves a bit further. Then it clears eventually.

Speeds below 25 it works like a charm. Seems to me there is something else in charge for slower speeds than of the higher ones? If I turn the speed dial slowly I hear a mechanical sound at around 25, as if some spring is being wound etc.

Anyways, I'll be meeting Jeff in 2 hours and show him what I have and will also ask for the uncoupling of the EV ring.

Will post back once ready. I have my hopes high!
Ben

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Hi there,

So I met Jeff yesterday at 10am and the camera was ready the same afternoon. Shutter problem gone, nice and clean all around and shutter speed accuracy was measured and found to be spot on, or at least within reasonable distance to perfection.

I am now going to start using it, put a few test rolls though and check. However, even without testing I can tell the job was well done and well documented with pictures of each stage etc.

Thank you all who commented on this thread and helped along!

Ben

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