lencap
Established
Interesting Point from Peter N and others
Interesting Point from Peter N and others
Peter raises a question I have not considered. "Scrap the M7 and invest in better glass." Do others share that opinion? Should I be considering Leica glass and a Bressa or other body?
I realize that the glass is critical, but my mind seems to come up with an analogy of putting a Ferrari engine in a VW chassis. Am I looking at this incorrectly?
I also appreciate the comments about film choices, something that I very unfamiliar with. To answer a question that was posted, I intend to have a lab do my processing, since I don't have the location to build my own lab, nor the patience to acquire the needed skills. Does that suggest that I should be shooting slides instead of color negative print film? If so, what do I do to view the images? I've been told that slides don't transfer well to actual pictures, and that scanning is challenging to do correctly.
Finally, if I put together a collection of CV lenses, maybe a 24 on the wide end, 35/40 (don't know which you suggest), 50, 90 is that a reasonable longer term goal or should I pick fewer higher quality Summicron lenses?
Comments?
Interesting Point from Peter N and others
Peter raises a question I have not considered. "Scrap the M7 and invest in better glass." Do others share that opinion? Should I be considering Leica glass and a Bressa or other body?
I realize that the glass is critical, but my mind seems to come up with an analogy of putting a Ferrari engine in a VW chassis. Am I looking at this incorrectly?
I also appreciate the comments about film choices, something that I very unfamiliar with. To answer a question that was posted, I intend to have a lab do my processing, since I don't have the location to build my own lab, nor the patience to acquire the needed skills. Does that suggest that I should be shooting slides instead of color negative print film? If so, what do I do to view the images? I've been told that slides don't transfer well to actual pictures, and that scanning is challenging to do correctly.
Finally, if I put together a collection of CV lenses, maybe a 24 on the wide end, 35/40 (don't know which you suggest), 50, 90 is that a reasonable longer term goal or should I pick fewer higher quality Summicron lenses?
Comments?
Sofa King
Established
You should also look into Zeiss ZM glass. The quality is on the same level as Leica (if not better) and it is, while not exactly cheap, cheaper than Leica glass.
Rhoyle
Well-known
Lencap,
The photos on the site you mentioned are of an area in Tuscany just off the Via Cassia, the main country road between Rome and Florence. In particular, most of the scenes are near the towns of Montalcino and Pienza. it's become quite a popular area for photographers, but don't limit yourself to this particular spot. Tuscany has many different faces between Florence and the Maremma in the south. Most of those pictured on the site were taken with big glass.
If I were you, I'd take the M7 with a wide and a normal length lenses. Additionally, maybe something like a 75 or 90. If you want to use the very long focal lengths, bring an SLR with a long zoom. However, the M7 with shorter lengths will allow you to work on a different type of shot. I'll be doing a similar trip in July, business in Switzerland and then a week down in Tuscany. I'm going to bring my Rollei 35RF with the 40mm Sonnar and a ZM 25. If I decide I want to do some tele stuff, I may throw an SLR in the bag with a 70-210. However, since getting into RF, I only use the SLR stuff for tele shots, and not very often.
Take the M7 and really learn how to use it. It's a fantastic camera that you'll likely have for the rest of your life. (There is no digitlal camera that can make that claim.) Your style will change with it and you'll find that photography will become a more interesting passtime.
The photos on the site you mentioned are of an area in Tuscany just off the Via Cassia, the main country road between Rome and Florence. In particular, most of the scenes are near the towns of Montalcino and Pienza. it's become quite a popular area for photographers, but don't limit yourself to this particular spot. Tuscany has many different faces between Florence and the Maremma in the south. Most of those pictured on the site were taken with big glass.
If I were you, I'd take the M7 with a wide and a normal length lenses. Additionally, maybe something like a 75 or 90. If you want to use the very long focal lengths, bring an SLR with a long zoom. However, the M7 with shorter lengths will allow you to work on a different type of shot. I'll be doing a similar trip in July, business in Switzerland and then a week down in Tuscany. I'm going to bring my Rollei 35RF with the 40mm Sonnar and a ZM 25. If I decide I want to do some tele stuff, I may throw an SLR in the bag with a 70-210. However, since getting into RF, I only use the SLR stuff for tele shots, and not very often.
Take the M7 and really learn how to use it. It's a fantastic camera that you'll likely have for the rest of your life. (There is no digitlal camera that can make that claim.) Your style will change with it and you'll find that photography will become a more interesting passtime.
waileong
Well-known
Leica glass is more than good enough for 11x17. I would say that 20x30 enlargements are still superb if you have a tripod. I know because I shot Yosemite park with my 35/1.4 asph in Feb using Efke 25 film. Darn cold, but great shots blown up to 16x20-- virtually grainless and still full of detail.
However, it must be said that most lenses are very good by the time we reach 5.6 or f8. Hence CV lenses should be ok if you are using a tripod.
However, it must be said that most lenses are very good by the time we reach 5.6 or f8. Hence CV lenses should be ok if you are using a tripod.
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andcolorII
Newbie
Take the M7 and really learn how to use it. It's a fantastic camera that you'll likely have for the rest of your life. (There is no digitlal camera that can make that claim.) Your style will change with it and you'll find that photography will become a more interesting passtime.
This person has really good advice.
Here is my 2¢ worth. Don't agonize over the lens too much. Instead, look 'very carefully' at the compositions of the photos you like. Especially those of Guido. His compositions are uncluttered and elegant. The light is perfect. (a matter of being there at the right time, of course) He uses the 'Golden Section' to perfect advantage. In the end, whether you are using pixels, or grain is less important than your two good eyes and your ability to see and interpret the lovliness of what is in front of you.
This person has really good advice.
Here is my 2¢ worth. Don't agonize over the lens too much. Instead, look 'very carefully' at the compositions of the photos you like. Especially those of Guido. His compositions are uncluttered and elegant. The light is perfect. (a matter of being there at the right time, of course) He uses the 'Golden Section' to perfect advantage. In the end, whether you are using pixels, or grain is less important than your two good eyes and your ability to see and interpret the lovliness of what is in front of you.
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
28mm for landscapes and street shooting as well. 50mm to isolate. Velvia 50asa or Kodachrome 64 or Reala 100asa.
I also take a 21mmVC for sweeping landscapes or interiors.
I also take a 21mmVC for sweeping landscapes or interiors.
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lencap
Established
I again thank all of you - this is some forum, and very rare to have so many helpful replies.
I'm debating in my mind the need for Leica glass. I realize that it is superior, and of superior quality, but I'm just starting in the Leica world and it's been decades since I used a film camera. My prior experience is Nikon with some Canon. Back then I made, what my wife called "very expensive snapshots".
So as I begin my learning and return to photography I wonder if I will become a better shooter if I purchase a few CV lenses, maybe a 28/50/90 selection, or something that you would suggest instead, at a total cost of less than one Leica lens. Yes, the CV lenses are not as good as the newest Leica selection, especially the ASPH models, but with my limited skills, will I know the difference?
I also don't expect to blow up my photos much above 8X10, which is why I feel comfortable with 35mm instead of medium format, but if I do create a masterpiece, can I enlarge much beyond 20X24 with either Leica or CV lenses (again assuming that the image is properly exposed and developed).
Thanks again to all for the help and adivce - it's been very educational and useful.
I'm debating in my mind the need for Leica glass. I realize that it is superior, and of superior quality, but I'm just starting in the Leica world and it's been decades since I used a film camera. My prior experience is Nikon with some Canon. Back then I made, what my wife called "very expensive snapshots".
So as I begin my learning and return to photography I wonder if I will become a better shooter if I purchase a few CV lenses, maybe a 28/50/90 selection, or something that you would suggest instead, at a total cost of less than one Leica lens. Yes, the CV lenses are not as good as the newest Leica selection, especially the ASPH models, but with my limited skills, will I know the difference?
I also don't expect to blow up my photos much above 8X10, which is why I feel comfortable with 35mm instead of medium format, but if I do create a masterpiece, can I enlarge much beyond 20X24 with either Leica or CV lenses (again assuming that the image is properly exposed and developed).
Thanks again to all for the help and adivce - it's been very educational and useful.
venchka
Veteran
I'm in the anti-M7 camp
I'm in the anti-M7 camp
...unless you've already purchased an M7, in which case use it and enjoy it.
If you haven't bought the M7, and you must have a Leica body (I know the feeling), a good M2 will more than suffice. A nice user M5 will suffice better. A trio of lenses consisting of the C/V 35mm 1.2 Nokton, mid to late 60s 50mm DR Summicron and 90mm 2.8 Elmarit will keep you amused for a long time. A person could go far with that kit.
You might even have a few bucks left over for the C/V 21 or 15.
I'm in the anti-M7 camp
...unless you've already purchased an M7, in which case use it and enjoy it.
If you haven't bought the M7, and you must have a Leica body (I know the feeling), a good M2 will more than suffice. A nice user M5 will suffice better. A trio of lenses consisting of the C/V 35mm 1.2 Nokton, mid to late 60s 50mm DR Summicron and 90mm 2.8 Elmarit will keep you amused for a long time. A person could go far with that kit.
You might even have a few bucks left over for the C/V 21 or 15.
lencap
Established
I've been offered a Summicron f/2.0 35mm ASPH lens from a local seller for $1,350. I don't have any lenses yet and I would like opinions if this is a good initial investment for the photography I've described.
It is the latest version, 6 bit coded.
It is the latest version, 6 bit coded.
venchka
Veteran
Does the lens have all of it's bits & pieces? Hood, case, all the caps including the cap for the hood? If so, that seems like a decent to good price. More expensive than the equally good or maybe superior Zeiss 35mm Biogon.
davidmknoble
Newbie
While I'm only a short time Leica user (about 3 months), I've had tremendous sucess with landscape photography using a monopod and the small Leica ball head. I've held the camera steady for 1/4 second shots of waterfalls that came out crisp and clear.
I use an old monopod for car trips and a ski pole type walking stick with a a tripod thread on top for hiking trips. The walking stick works great because I use the hand strap to push down and help steady everything. I've also been able to lean it against trees, rocks and benches to create a make-shift tripod.
Either way, the walking stick does double duty. I couldn't make it work without the ball head, though, to get the right angle for a shot. I found some used short ball heads significantly cheaper than the newer larger ones. I also pack a Leica mini tripod because it doesn't take up much room (the small table top one).
For lenses, I prefer a 28mm or 35mm for most. I got lucky and ran across a great deal from www.tamarkin.com for a used 35mm f20 asph which is a terrific lens. I haven't found a great deal on a 28mm that I want yet, but when I go backpacking I only take the 35mm.
Best of luck!
David.
I use an old monopod for car trips and a ski pole type walking stick with a a tripod thread on top for hiking trips. The walking stick works great because I use the hand strap to push down and help steady everything. I've also been able to lean it against trees, rocks and benches to create a make-shift tripod.
Either way, the walking stick does double duty. I couldn't make it work without the ball head, though, to get the right angle for a shot. I found some used short ball heads significantly cheaper than the newer larger ones. I also pack a Leica mini tripod because it doesn't take up much room (the small table top one).
For lenses, I prefer a 28mm or 35mm for most. I got lucky and ran across a great deal from www.tamarkin.com for a used 35mm f20 asph which is a terrific lens. I haven't found a great deal on a 28mm that I want yet, but when I go backpacking I only take the 35mm.
Best of luck!
David.
icebear
Veteran
go for non coded
go for non coded
Lencap,
if you don't waste a thought about getting a M8 and have time before your trip, then shop around a get a non-coded version. The 6-bits take a premium and it's waste of money for you. I own the 2/35 asph and I'm very happy with it. Go also for a 2/50ZM Planar (Zeiss). This combiantion will cover you for 90%. A good tele option is the old 4/135 TeleElmarit with you could find for 500-600$ - much cheaper than the latest Apo Telyt. For a lens you won't use very often don't fork out too much.
More important than the lenses are you eyes. You compose and select the frame, not the lens. Happy shooting.
go for non coded
lencap said:
Lencap,
if you don't waste a thought about getting a M8 and have time before your trip, then shop around a get a non-coded version. The 6-bits take a premium and it's waste of money for you. I own the 2/35 asph and I'm very happy with it. Go also for a 2/50ZM Planar (Zeiss). This combiantion will cover you for 90%. A good tele option is the old 4/135 TeleElmarit with you could find for 500-600$ - much cheaper than the latest Apo Telyt. For a lens you won't use very often don't fork out too much.
More important than the lenses are you eyes. You compose and select the frame, not the lens. Happy shooting.
ferider
Veteran
Landscapes take time (including the scouting). Depending on location, the best photos can only be done during a few minutes in the entire day.
- If your wife doesn't like to be with you, go to dinner late, have some wine in the evening, and you shoot early in the morning while she is still in bed. Bring home break-fast
That's what I do.
- Fast lenses are only rarely necessary for special effects. For example, for 35mm, the CV Color Skopar 35/2.5 should fulfill all your needs. Leica lenses are optimized for wide open photography.
- you need a basic 28/50 combo as a minimum.
- a self timer helps.
- a light-meter is a must
- a tripod is a must for "Golden Hour" shots, at least. Many of the photos in the link you mention have been done in the early morning or later evening.
For church interiors without flash you need fast film, a fast and wide lens, and a tripod as well, at least a mini-tripod.
My 2 cents,
Roland.
- If your wife doesn't like to be with you, go to dinner late, have some wine in the evening, and you shoot early in the morning while she is still in bed. Bring home break-fast
That's what I do.- Fast lenses are only rarely necessary for special effects. For example, for 35mm, the CV Color Skopar 35/2.5 should fulfill all your needs. Leica lenses are optimized for wide open photography.
- you need a basic 28/50 combo as a minimum.
- a self timer helps.
- a light-meter is a must
- a tripod is a must for "Golden Hour" shots, at least. Many of the photos in the link you mention have been done in the early morning or later evening.
For church interiors without flash you need fast film, a fast and wide lens, and a tripod as well, at least a mini-tripod.
My 2 cents,
Roland.
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lencap
Established
I appreciate the continued feedback - is there someone who can suggest a good light meter for me use with the M7?
Rhoyle
Well-known
I've got a Gossen DigiFlash, which is the same thing as the less expensive and equally accurate DigiSix, but without the flash mode. It's quite small but very readable and you can wear it around your neck.
venchka
Veteran
Sorry. I couldn't resist.
Sorry. I couldn't resist.
M5. Best light meter I have ever used. Period.
Next best, for incident readings, Weston Master V
Gossens are good also.
Sorry. I couldn't resist.
lencap said:
M5. Best light meter I have ever used. Period.
Next best, for incident readings, Weston Master V
Gossens are good also.
M
Magus
Guest
Post deleted by posters request
Santafecino
button man
I take it you aren't going to be shooting black & white? If you are, you need to think about filters. You might even want to select lenses that accept the same filters. An economical approach would be to have a CV 35mm f/2.5 Classic, a 50mm Summicron, and a 90mm Elmar-C.
I see that compactness is also a concern. This would be a very portable outfit that uses 39mm filters for all lenses (okay, a little dodgy on the Elmar-C, but it does work).
I would encourage you to simplify your approach, take notes, and study the pictures you admire for their qualities. Many of them will be compositionally simple and exclude the extraneous. Good trip!
I see that compactness is also a concern. This would be a very portable outfit that uses 39mm filters for all lenses (okay, a little dodgy on the Elmar-C, but it does work).
I would encourage you to simplify your approach, take notes, and study the pictures you admire for their qualities. Many of them will be compositionally simple and exclude the extraneous. Good trip!