Latest B&W Processing Work...

bmattock

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As I've been discussing recently, I obtained an elderly "Kodacraft" developing tank and "apron" insert for 35mm film. Unlike a Nikor tank and steel reels, or a plastic tank and ratcheting plastic reels, this 'apron' is kind of like a roll of film itself - it is a length of clear plastic that is slightly longer than a 36-exposure roll of film, and it has serrations along both edges (where the sprocket holes would be on film). If you unroll the apron and then stick the leader of your B&W film in there, you can let the apron roll back up (it tends to roll up if left to do what it wants) and the film will be inside of the apron but held slightly away from actual physical contact by the serrations along the edges of the apron. Someone here described it as being like the edges of ravioli - very apt!

I had never used anything quite like that, so I was eager to try it.

Plastic ratcheting reels are nice, but they have to be absolutely dry or they work badly, and I have had problems even then using some sorts of film in them - specifically, they seem not to like Forte films, which are very curly lengthwise.

I also use stainless steel reels in Nikor tanks, but they take some practice to be able to load in the dark and then roll the film on without getting it bunched up and having frames that stick together and don't get processed correctly (or at all). Some say the SS reels are perfect and swear by them, some swear at them instead. I think they're ok, but fussy. Obviously, the more experience one has with them, the better I think they would get at it, and therefore, the better they would like them.

So I decided to give this ancient Kodacraft a try on Sunday last. I went out to our local "Whirligig Festival" here in Wilson and shot a couple of rolls of film, then I came home and processed them, dried, and scanned them.

The city of Wilson was kind enough to put a few of them online, and they are here:

http://www.wilsonnc.org/whirligig/news.asp?id=164

I shot two rolls of film - Fortepan 100 36 exposure and Agfa APX 100 24 exposure. I processed them both in Kodak D-76 1:1. The Fortepan got 10 1/2 minutes at 68 degrees F, and the APX got 9 minutes, as I recall.

I used my Bessa R and a couple of different lenses. A. Schacht 35mm f3.5 (my Canon is on loan at the moment), Canon 50mm f1.4, Canon 85mm f1.9, and a Steinheil Culminar 135mm f4.5 (with hood, and the dang thing still flares). Almost all of the photos the City of Wilson choose to put online were taken with the Canon 50mm f1.4. A real cracker, that lens is sharp! If could only choose one lens and one camera body, it would most likely be this combination.

I found the Kodacraft and 'apron' extremely easy to use. I unrolled the thing, stuck the leader from the film in the crux of the roll, and let the thing roll itself up, spring-fashion. I just guided it to keep the apron and the film together. Then I placed the apron in the tank and from there on, treated it as any tank with film in it.

I found that not only did the apron tame the unruliness of the Fortepan 100 film that I've experienced in the past, but the film also remained remarkably flat AFTERWARDS when I dried and scanned it. In the past, the stuff was so curly, I didn't want to use it at all - it was like fighting with the damned stuff to get it into the scanner - who needs it? This time, no problems. I cannot explain this.

Results?

Well, I had something unusual happen to the Fortepan 100. I got lots of little white spots on my negs. Not dust! The spots were ONLY on areas of the negative that would have printed light gray or white. Dark areas did not have the spots. The spots were evenly distributed, other than the fact that they were only apparent on lighter-colored areas of the negs. All frames were equally affected.

I would have thought that somehow my processing or the apron was to blame, but I did NOT have the problem with my APX 100. That roll processed very nicely, and in fact, I may have reconsider my earlier dissing of APX 100. It looks very nice actually. Great tonality, nearly grainless. The Fortepan is very grainy, but that's not a bad thing if that's what you're going for. The spots were weird, though.

Also interesting, the two girls seen through the window of their ice-cream vending booth were posing for me most enthusiastically - it seems they are college students studying photography, and they were speculating that my Bessa R was a 'real' rangefinder. They were most excited to find that it was, and I trotted out all my lenses and so forth for them to examine - we held up ice cream traffic while discussing the pros and cons of rangefinders. Nice girls, and it was fun to talk with them.

Anyway, all this to say that I enjoyed using the Kodacraft tank and apron - it made the processing very easy, and I see no drawbacks to using it. Like the plastic ratcheting reels, the apron has to be dry to use easily, but unlike the reels, you can dry it by wiping it down with a clean lintless cloth, since it unrolls like film. So I recommend it!

You can still find Kodacraft tanks and reels on eBoy (I'm currently searching for more) or you can order new copies of that style from Freestyle, but they only sell single-roll tanks for them. The Kodak Kodacraft tanks were available to hold two rolls with a metal spacer in between. I suppose you could use a vintage tank with the modern apron copies from Freestyle, but I haven't tested that theory yet, although I intend to.

Hope you find this useful!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Bill,

Did you recommend RFF to the girls? We could use some more younger members, and being female would not hurt either.

Wayne
 
Wayne R. Scott said:
Bill,

Did you recommend RFF to the girls? We could use some more younger members, and being female would not hurt either.

Wayne

No, I suggested that they email me their questions and I'd give them my personal attention. Hehehehe.

Actually, yes. Let's see if they stop by!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Hello Bill, my first developing tank circa 1971 was an Agfa Rondinax for 35mm film. It was literally a daylight developing tank/aparratus. There was a chamber for the film cannister. It had a wheel / spiral with a clip on belt that pulled the film into the tank and onto the spirals. All and all it was a very high-tech piece of bake-lite for me at the time, although it was probably a 1930's design.
 
Bill:

I just read a recent post on another forum related to tiny white spots on photos. I think they are actually black spots that show up as white on the prints. I have had similar problems in isolated instances many years ago.

According to the post, using a strong acid stop bath can sometimes create tiny bubles in soft emulsion that subsequently get hardened into the film. It could be a result of extremely basic developer and extremely acidic stop bath. The poster recommended using a water rinse/stop rather than a fast acid stop.

I use water instead of acid stop bath myself although that is not the original reason. I have not had that spotting problem in many years.

-Paul
 
Solinar said:
Hello Bill, my first developing tank circa 1971 was an Agfa Rondinax for 35mm film. It was literally a daylight developing tank/aparratus. There was a chamber for the film cannister. It had a wheel / spiral with a clip on belt that pulled the film into the tank and onto the spirals. All and all it was a very high-tech piece of bake-lite for me at the time, although it was probably a 1930's design.

You're going to laugh, but I have been looking at those strange Rondinax tanks recently (I've got an eBoy search for them) and was thinking about asking if anyone on RFF knew anything about them. I hate going into a closet to load film, and changing bags suck. They make my hands claustrophobic.

So how well did the Rondinax work? Wasteful of processing chemicals? Easy to use/clean up? Good processor? How do you agitate? Etc!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Nice photos Bill. About you spots, which roll did you develop first? That is, what is the possibility that there was unseen contamination on the roller if that roll was first?
 
pshinkaw said:
Bill:

I just read a recent post on another forum related to tiny white spots on photos. I think they are actually black spots that show up as white on the prints. I have had similar problems in isolated instances many years ago.

According to the post, using a strong acid stop bath can sometimes create tiny bubles in soft emulsion that subsequently get hardened into the film. It could be a result of extremely basic developer and extremely acidic stop bath. The poster recommended using a water rinse/stop rather than a fast acid stop.

I use water instead of acid stop bath myself although that is not the original reason. I have not had that spotting problem in many years.

-Paul

Hmm, interesting! I don't use stop bath myself, just water rinse and then fix. I was using a new fixer brand, though. Maybe I mixed it too strong or fixed for too long? Can you fix for too long? Whatever the problem, it did not seem to affect my Agfa APX 100, which was processed at the same time, one right after the other.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
oftheherd said:
Nice photos Bill. About you spots, which roll did you develop first? That is, what is the possibility that there was unseen contamination on the roller if that roll was first?

Um, the roller? I'm missing something. The 'apron' system I used doesn't seem to have a roller.

I did develop the Fortepan first. But I ran the whole Kodacraft system through my dishwasher before using it, to get remaining old chemicals off everything.

Maybe I didn't get the chemicals off? Maybe the dishwasher added something bad? Hmmm.

But again - total weirdness - my scans of the Fortepan roll showed the white spots ONLY on areas that would be printed as white or very light-colored, the dark areas did not have the little white spots at all.

I have my KofC meeting tonight, but I can try to post an example of the film problem tonight when I get home if you think it would help identify the problem!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
bmattock said:
So how well did the Rondinax work? Wasteful of processing chemicals? Easy to use/clean up? Good processor? How do you agitate? Etc!

Actually, the bugger worked quite well for me both before going into the military when I had, I'm ashamed to say, one of those Kodak suitcase enlargers and later, after military service, when I was in college.

It's quite stingy on chems, if I remember correctly. I'd recommend keeping it simple and use liquid stock solutions to make your working solutions. Once the film is fixed, you take out the reel, then HCA and rinse with a separate container. All your chems must be at 68 degrees and prewashing the film at 68 degrees gets the tank there wonderfully. The tank is boxed shaped and well insulated.

At the moment, I'm a committed 3 roll tank and closet loader. It is more time efficient to develop three rolls at once.
 
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Solinar said:
Actually, the bugger worked quite well for me both before going into the military when I had, I'm ashamed to say, one of those Kodak suitcase enlargers and later, after military service, when I was in college.

It's quite stingy on chems, if I remember correctly. I'd recommend keeping it simple and use liquid stock solutions to make your working solutions. Once the film is fixed, you take out the reel, then HCA and rinse with a separate container. All your chems must be at 68 degrees and prewashing the film at 68 degrees gets the tank there wonderfully. The tank is boxed shaped and well insulated.

At the moment, I'm a committed 3 roll tank and closet loader. It is more time efficient to develop three rolls at once.


HCA?

And I often shoot up to three rolls at a time, but I have such a hodge-podge collection of B&W films that I'm working through right now that I seldom have three rolls that I can process all at once with the same dev times!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Hey Bill, didn't Jobo make a MODERN daylight tank that you popped your film into the center of the reel, turned something so that it self-loaded onto the reel and then turned something else which cut the film at the end of the roll so that the cannister would pop out of the center.

Does anyone have one of these?
 
bmattock said:
Also interesting, the two girls seen through the window of their ice-cream vending booth were posing for me most enthusiastically - it seems they are college students studying photography, and they were speculating that my Bessa R was a 'real' rangefinder. They were most excited to find that it was, and I trotted out all my lenses and so forth for them to examine - we held up ice cream traffic while discussing the pros and cons of rangefinders. Nice girls, and it was fun to talk with them.

Even here in ubersocial Vikingland I've experienced similar reactions when carrying around my rangefinder; the older the gear, the more interested people are (and the more comfortable they seem to be) Even someone, an acquaintance, who is rather introverted started asking about the camera, where I bought it, etc. etc.

Obviously it's the "novelty" factor (in a retro-ironic way); I remember when I was at Bryce Canyon Park, quite a few years ago, I saw a photographer with a field 4x5 camera; my girlfriend and I were very curious and asked about it, asked to peek through the ground glass (we had never seen that before).

Perhaps we could keep film alive by writing to the manufacturers: "it keeps people together". OK, so I'm bad at marketing...
 
HCA == hypo clearing agent. it's a wash aid used after fixing to decrease the amount of washing needed to get the fixer (hypo) out.

it is possible to overfix something, but you'd need to get into the range of 30+ minutes or so, I think. I doubt that's the problem. Since using a rapid fixer at 1+9 requires only an increase in fix time vs. 1+4, I'd imagine that it's unlikely that you had the problems from overly strong fixer.

Are the white spots on the neg or the print? You say they are on the neg, but then say they are where it would've printed white. It's either one or the other.

allan
 
Bill, I'm glad to hear the Kodacraft apron worked out, and maybe your next roll of Fortepan will be clean as the APX100. Nice photos of the event! You're certainly becoming a part of the community you live in -- you've become an ambassador for photography!

Gene
 
kaiyen said:
HCA == hypo clearing agent. it's a wash aid used after fixing to decrease the amount of washing needed to get the fixer (hypo) out.

it is possible to overfix something, but you'd need to get into the range of 30+ minutes or so, I think. I doubt that's the problem. Since using a rapid fixer at 1+9 requires only an increase in fix time vs. 1+4, I'd imagine that it's unlikely that you had the problems from overly strong fixer.

Are the white spots on the neg or the print? You say they are on the neg, but then say they are where it would've printed white. It's either one or the other.

allan

Sorry I wasn't clear! I don't use stop bath or hypo clearing agent usually, just dev and fix and a very long rinse - I do use photoflo.

I don't have a darkroom and don't print - just scan my negs. I will try to post an example of what I'm talking about shortly.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
OK, here are some examples of the problems I had with the first roll I ran through this apron system of processing negs. The first shot shows a portrait I did of this gentleman in a wheelchair. Note you might be able to see the white spots I'm talking about, but note also that you don't see them on his (dark colored) hat. I'm not talking about the scratches, fibers, etc, that I haven't cleaned off yet.

Then on the second shot, I just cropped at 1:1 around his face. Notice that the spots are not on his hat. So weird.

Anyone have any idea what this is? I hung both rolls of negs up to dry side by side, this is not dust (is it?). Besides, dust would have gotten on everything equally wouldn't it have?

Any help appreciated.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
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That IS odd, Bill... My first thought was "dirt"! But you're right, dirt should show up even more strongly on the hat. A further thought is back to the comment about different pH for the developer and stop bath, where gas bubbles form in the emulsion (those would print black). In the absense of a stop bath, I wonder if there's something about your fixer or a following chemical that affects the denser areas of the neg, which print light grey & white, maybe some sort of clumping of silver grains. Less silver is left in the emulsion where it's clearer, printing dark tones. This could certainly be connected to the particular emulsion type/brand.
 
Hey! That's the kind of crud that I get on a frame here and there, sometimes on a roll here or there, when I get my color film processed. I thought it was the luck of the draw on the lab operator I got that shift on that day. Could it possibly be a hardware/maintanence issue (besides decalcifying?)
 
gabrielma said:
Hey! That's the kind of crud that I get on a frame here and there, sometimes on a roll here or there, when I get my color film processed. I thought it was the luck of the draw on the lab operator I got that shift on that day. Could it possibly be a hardware/maintanence issue (besides decalcifying?)

I don't know! The conditions for the two rolls were very much alike. I used freshly-mixed D-76 for both. Used the same tank. Same dilution (1:1). Similar dev times (10 1/2 minutes vs. 9 minutes), both according to dev instructions, and neither roll pushed. Shot both in same camera with same ISO setting. Both were 100 speed films, shot on same day, of same subjects. I used Arista economy non-hardening fixer on both - mixed one-shot 1:4 and fixed for six minutes each. Rinsed both for 20+ minutes afterwards in cold tap water. Squeegeed them and hung them up to dry next to each other.

The APX exhibits NONE of these silly little spots - the Fortepan has it on every frame.

I guess it could certainly be that Fortepan 100 does not 'like' D-76! I have several more rolls of the stuff - I can try HC110 or Acufine or Diafine, but I'd have to mix the latter two up first.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
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