Leather treatment?

FrankS

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I just spent some time cleaning up an old Rolleiflex I bought recently. What can I use to revitalize the camera's black body covering, and the brown camera case?

 
I just spent some time cleaning up an old Rolleiflex I bought recently. What can I use to revitalize the camera's body covering, and the camera case?

I went on research not so long time ago. Some cases where due to.
You'll need to go to horsies store and they have it for saddle and else.
I forgot the name, but it is the only one they have at the stores here.
I could check it tonight.
UPD: Must be the Lexol. I put it on very similar case as yours 🙂
 
I use leather creme made for shoes, not the hard pollish but the the soft creme. Leave it for a whie and rub the excess of. Makes the leather soft again. Some old camera cases were treated with laquer though so be careful
 
What's wrong with mink oil? I never heard anything - granted I haven't used it all that much. It did bring a dead Billingham back to Life - the leather parts were so dry they were cracked. This forum suggested I try that oil
 
According to my friend that buys, trades, collects and sells historic WWII leather flight jackets and he has had historic jackets worth over 10K wont buy a jacket if he finds out that it has had mink oil on it. He also wont use it to treat 70+ year old jackets. According to him and other collectors it rots the tread and actually winds up eventually drying out the leather and promoting what he calls red rot.

I won't use it because trust his opinion.
 
I like Lexol on old camera casas and old gun holsters as well. If it is really bad off, it may take more than one application.

I have used mink oil on shoes in the fall and winter with no problems so far. Of course I keep my shoe leather well protected by leather polish. In shoes, I also have several pairs of shoes and rotate their use. Surprising how that increases their life-time.
 
Hi,

You have to know there are different qualities of leather.

When leather leaves the tannery it´s a 1 cm layer, very thick.

Then the process is to split this thick layer into 2-3 thinner layers.

The best of it is the first layer which has the "full grain", jackets gloves and fine cases are made with such leather it will last ages and mostened once in a while they will resist.

The second and so on layers will never have the firsts one quality or resistance.
For making these secondary layers fit for work tanneries emboss patterns and paint them with plastic coatings.

The cases such as the rolleiflex´s and the well known leicas are made of secondary leather layers, they are painted and with ageing they lose there humidity and crack like card board.

NEver use oil, if it is in one piece with no cracks you can repaint it, even you can fill the cracks with some edge dressing from fiebings and then paint it.

🙂 Good luck!
 
Of the first, do no harm philosophy, a famous baseball glove repairer told me "only put on leather what you'd put on your skin". Yes, you might need to apply it more often, but it will do the job and you know you won't harm the leather or the stitching.
 
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