Leica 35mm for film camera

thjk

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I am thinking to get a Leica M 35mm for my new MP. My personal taste is the high contrast pictures and I want a smaller lens. The lens I have now are the 35 Summilux FLE, 50 mm Summilux ASPH, 28 mm Elmarit ASPH, Voigtlander 35 mm f/2.5 Color Skopa.

I am thinking about the Summicron V4, V5 and Summarit f 2.5. If I get this I may let go my 35 FLE since I rarely use it.

Just wonder which one is best suit for film camera. Is anyone has the same experience?
 
I would trade the FLE and Color-Skopar for the Voigtlander 35mm f/2 Ultron. The Summicron pre-ASPH often gives harsh bokeh WOCA, and the ASPH can be harsh in similar situations, so they’re basically the same as the Ultron where you need to stop down a little to really smooth things out, but at greater cost. The Summarit-M is nice, but on the slow side for film.
 
The 35 Summicron ASPH feels like an obvious choice here – one of the most common objections to this lens is the high contrast, but you say you prefer that look. It's a bit bigger and heavier than earlier 35mm Summicrons, but to my mind it still offers a good balance of speed to size (and the build quality is very good).

Edit: The Zeiss 2.8 Biogon-C is also an excellent choice (compact with high contrast and low distortion), but you said you wanted Leica, and the extra speed of the Summicron is useful with film.
 
Another vote for the Zeiss 35 2.8 Biogon-C! Over the years I've owned the 35 2.0 Summicron ASPH, the Zeiss 2.8 35 Biogon-C, a 35 3.5 Summaron in LTM and most recently the Voigtlander 35 2.0 Ultron ASPH. All are very capable lenses but if you're looking for something different with a bit more pop, try the Zeiss.
 
Old Crons are way too overpriced for no reason. Especially plastic-fantastic v4.
If you are using color mostly, Color Skopar is just perfect for color.
Summarit 35 is the best lens I ever owned for BW darkroom prints. It renders very juicy, comparing to totally flat Skopar. I only wish it to be 1.4. Think twice before selling FLE. I wish, I could afford it.

Also, contrast is done during printing or in PP.
 
49144900968_97a6116731_b.jpg



Slightly stopped down:

48008556078_79a1360b15_b.jpg
 
I am thinking to get a Leica M 35mm for my new MP. My personal taste is the high contrast pictures and I want a smaller lens. The lens I have now are the 35 Summilux FLE, 50 mm Summilux ASPH, 28 mm Elmarit ASPH, Voigtlander 35 mm f/2.5 Color Skopa.

I am thinking about the Summicron V4, V5 and Summarit f 2.5. If I get this I may let go my 35 FLE since I rarely use it.

Just wonder which one is best suit for film camera. Is anyone has the same experience?

Are us looking for a chrome or black Summicron v5?
 
Another vote for the Zeiss 35f2.8 C-Biogon. Contasty and sharp. Reid Reviews has said it may be the sharpest 35 they have ever tested. And small and cheap compared to anything by Zeiss.
 
You already have an excellent 35mm lens. There are several options for a higher contrast 35mm lens. I chose the Zeiss 35/2 ZM. Some prefer the 35/2.8 Zeiss. Save money and get a Canon 35/2 . It is a small lens. Since you like high contrast lenses but are not happy about your asph lens, getting a modern Zeiss lens may be the way to go.
 
....My personal taste is the high contrast pictures... I have.. 35 Summilux FLE, 50 mm Summilux ASPH, 28 mm Elmarit ASPH, Voigtlander 35 mm f/2.5 Color Skopa......

Hi – I have the current 28 Elmarit, and had the Voigtlander 35mm Colour Skopar – which I sold and replaced with a Zeiss 35mm C-Biogon f2.8.

The C-Biogon is my go-to everyday lens; it is superb. It is substantially better than the Colour Skopar I had, it is far better than my 28mm Elmarit [bought new].

I use this 3D printed hood on the Zeiss C–Biogon :

https://www.shapeways.com/product/G...5mm-1-4-lens-hood-v5?optionId=953097&li=shops

The hood works fabulously on the C–Biogon.

............ Chris
 
The Biogon is currently on sale at BH for under $800.Quite a deal for a high quality lens
 
Are you shooting color or BW? For BW, meter your shadows and put them where the need to be in the zone scale, and just develop longer to n+1 or 2 for your development. No need for a new lens in that case. Just my opinion.
 
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