Leica Beginner Question...

[Montucky]

Hello all,

I had a question or two about getting into this whole RF scene.

A little background, I am an aspiring photog, shoot mostly journalistic stuff. Currently shoot a 5D with a 24-70 2.8L and a 35mm 1.4 and 50mm 1.8. I also have a canon A1 with a whole host of primes that I enjoy shooting with as well.

So I am riding a bicycle this summer from Prudhoe Bay (the top of Alaska) to Mexico and selling all my digi junk for a Leica M6. I am also taking a trip to israel this summer, and want to document this whole series of events well... on film.

I was wondering what to do though, as far as lens choices. My total budget is right around 3000 bucks for everything (body+Lenses). I was considering just getting one 35mm lens and calling it good. Just a simple lightweight setup. But then I figure it might make sense to get something with a little more reach... your thoughts?

I really like my 35L. That focal length works really well for what I like to shoot, and it seems to do everything. Whenever I shoot a wedding with it, its on my camera 90% of the time, and makes more than 90% of my used shots. If I do get a 35mm lens, I dont want to sacrifice the optics, as I am totally spoiled with my 35L.

Was wondering if you might recommend a cost effective 50mm or something that would work well in conjunction with the 50. Or a 90mm? I am really open to opinions here. Definitely would like something that produces nice results though, I guess cheap is kind of a relative term. ~700 ish? I figure I can get a 35mm f2 summicron for somewhere around a grand, and the body for 1300ish.

Thanks!

-graeme

 

[JohnnyT]

Well... What about a M2... one or two Leica (50 cron, 75 elmarit or a 90 f4) lenses and a CV 35 1.2 ? 🙂

 

[Montucky]

Need a built in lightmeter for 2 reasons.

I dont want to carry one around.

And I suck at guessing 😉

Thanks for the input tho!

 

[johannielscom]

Get an M6 0.72 and a 35/2.0 Summicron (theres 1 in the classifieds, but from a new and unknown member 🙁) Or get a Konica Hexanon 35/2.0 or a Zeiss Biogon 35/2.0.

All terrific lenses that will make you smile for sure when looking at your shots.

 

[RAZOR]

I have the Summicron-C 40mm f/2 and it works great. Just a bit longer than the 35 and it brings up the 50 frame lines on the M-series (it can also be easily modified to bring uo the 35 lines) I find that it works very because I wear glasses and find the 35 lines hard to compose with but love the 35 focal length.

If I were going on the bike trip you described (cool!) I would look for a later year M6 body. I think an M2 or M3 might take just a little too much abuse in your bag for the duration of the trip. I would also have a nice durable digital camera with me as a "back-up" (think oiympus tough series) and save that Leica for all the money shots.

 

[Montucky]

Thanks for all the replies!

Razor, any particular reason why a later year m6 would work better? I am going to have a handlebar bag dedicated to the camera, so I should be able to keep it in pretty nice shape.

 

[chrispiper]

In my other life I shoot a 1D Mk II and the 24-70. Either of our rigs is way too much bulk for a continental bike ride. The M6 is a good choice for a body. And if you really like the focal length of 35mm then stick with it. If you think you'd like a second lens then I'd suggest a 90. A 50 is too close to the 35 and you don't really gain much, other than extra weight. A 90 is a different enough perspective that you won't feel that they overlap.

I also ride a road bike so the bicyclist in me says - one body/one lens. You'll need to save every ounce and if you really think you can spare a few then just bring more film. I would bet that after a day or two you won't be missing an extra lens.

As for which one to pick, think about what kind of look you like. Old style, clinical sharpness, high/low contrast, etc. I would also think about physical size, the lens should be big enough to feel right and handle well but no larger. I wish I had a good suggestion but I shoot a 35 Summaron with goggles so that one's definitely out : ) I do have both the Hexanon 50 and Hexanon 90 and they are outstanding lenses and reasonably priced too. They are pretty compact and have integral hoods which is handy too.

Have a good trip,
Chris

 

[fbf]

I would use the 5d+35L for the trip and you can also bring the 50/1.8 along.
If you are not a proficient film camera user, you will not get the same quality as you would from 5d plus the superb 35L. The high ISO capability of 5d is non-existent in leica world.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[mwooten]

A side question to your original question-- I have both an Epson RD1 and a Leica M4-p, and when either camera travels it is in a bag with a well-padded bottom and in a car. I still place the bag upon something softer than the car's seat--a folded coat. The point I'm getting at is that I've always considered the rangefinder focusing system relatively fragile, at least when compared to an slr. So is a rangefinder camera traveling in a handlebar bag going to get somewhat scrambled during such a major bike trek?

--michael

 

[coelacanth]

Thanks for all the replies!

Razor, any particular reason why a later year m6 would work better? I am going to have a handlebar bag dedicated to the camera, so I should be able to keep it in pretty nice shape.

Be careful carrying rangefinder camera in handlebar bag. The vibration can nock off the RF vertical alignment. But as long as horizontal alignment is good, there should be no problem in practical use during the travel, though.

I'd use a small waist bag for the camera, and make sure it won't be touching the saddle. That way, your body can absorb most of vibration before it reaches the camera.

 

[Montucky]

Chris thanks for the advice. I am thinking that just the M6 and a 35mm is probably the way to go.

fbf, I have been shooting film for years and have hundreds of darkroom hours. I would consider myself proficient. That said, I am not good at spot metering in every situation by eye. If that is your definition of proficient, then that I am not.

The 5d is too bulky, fragile, and sold. 😉 Too late to bring it.

Coe, that is a great idea with the fanny pack. Now I just need to find a fully waterproof one. Or I might just figure out a padded situation for the handlebar bag.

A considerable amount of the trek is off-road, so this is definitely something I need to consider. Especially since I am riding a rigid road bike. Maybe even bring a backpack?

 

[RAZOR]

Thanks for all the replies!

Razor, any particular reason why a later year m6 would work better? I am going to have a handlebar bag dedicated to the camera, so I should be able to keep it in pretty nice shape.

The older M bodies experience separation withing the viewfinder/rangefinder prism. The glue that was used loses it's stregth and becomes weaker as the camera gets older. Some bodies last for years with this condition without any problem but any blunt force or shaking around in a bag on a bike may quicken the condition or cause it to fail completely. Your viewfinder will then become useless and it is very costly to get repaired.

See below:
http://www.angelfire.com/biz/Leica/page10.html

 

[coelacanth]

Originally Posted by Montucky
Thanks for all the replies!

Razor, any particular reason why a later year m6 would work better? I am going to have a handlebar bag dedicated to the camera, so I should be able to keep it in pretty nice shape.

The older M bodies experience separation withing the viewfinder/rangefinder prism. The glue that was used loses it's stregth and becomes weaker as the camera gets older. Some bodies last for years with this condition without any problem but any blunt force or shaking around in a bag on a bike may quicken the condition or cause it to fail completely. Your viewfinder will then become useless and it is very costly to get repaired.

Just to clarify for the OP, all M6 older and younger (I believe Late M4 and newer) have synthetic cement for the prism so they should be OK.

M2/M3 indeed have Canada Balsam organic cement that has become weak, and can be separated by shocks and vibrations.

 

[ferider]

M6 + 35 Summicron, if you want a classic lens, v3 (best built).

Make sure you use it extensively before your trips, so you know that it will work.

Also, while an everready or half case is sometimes less practical, I imagine it will help protect your camera.

Roland.

 

[Damaso]

For sure you can get an M6 and a 35 for less than three grand. If you're okay with CV lenses you can pick up a 50 as well for a good price....

 

[fbf]

fbf, I have been shooting film for years and have hundreds of darkroom hours. I would consider myself proficient. That said, I am not good at spot metering in every situation by eye. If that is your definition of proficient, then that I am not.

The 5d is too bulky, fragile, and sold. 😉 Too late to bring it.

Hi, no offense. Just want to make sure you have a modest expectation on what you will be getting.
I would second what everyone else has mentioned above: a used M6 + 35/2 either summicron or zeiss M.

 

[Tom A]

Within your budget I would go for a M6 and a M2 for bodies and a basic 3 lens kit. 35/50/90. The Summicron's are nice, but you can easily blow your budget on just one of them!!! Look for a 35f2.5 VC Color Skopar (smaller, lighter and 1/2 price of a old 35f2 Summicron), for low light stuff, the 50f1.5 Nokton (as good as any Summilux - apart from the Asph 50f1.4 - which would wipe out your budget on its own!) and look for a 90f2.8 Elmarit or Tele-Elmarit (though beware of separation and fungus in the latter). Don't discount the Apo Lanthar 90f3.5 - small, sharp and light weight.
On a trip like this - you carry a back up (the M2) - Murphy's Law applies - if something can go wrong - it will.
An alternate and even lighter would be a 21f4 VC or 28f3.5VC (either LTM or M-mount), a 40f1.4 Nokton and one of the 90's. Still two bodies (M6/M2 or even a R4M for the 21/28 as it does have a built in meter). The 40 can substitute for a 50 and/or 35 and it is a f1.4 - and usable at f1.4).
This is obviously a trip you are not going to do again for a while - so dont skimp on film and equipment. I would also take a small point/shoot digital as a "diary" camera.
Before you go, shoot yourself "in" with the various lenses and cameras and check that everything works as you want it to work - and that you are comfortable with it.
The road from Prudhoe bay is bumpy and dusty so carry plastic bags to wrap stuff in. By the time you hit Anchorage it is pavement almost all the way down (not necessarily good, smooth pavement - but less dust and flying rocks).
Should be a great trip and dont forget the bearspray - they tend to look at bicyclists as "roadside" dining.

 

[Livesteamer]

I am curious what film you are intending to use. This has been interesting as I am looking forward to a week of hiking in the Rockie mountains this summer. Part of me says just an M6 with 35mm and the other part of me wants to bring 2 M6's, three lenses and a Retina IIa or FM2n. Joe

 

[stompyq]

Also add a small fixed lens RF as a backup (just in case) for under $100. Oly XA/35RC or even a canonet QL17?? Small, bulletproof and reliable. Or a small digicam (but those will go over $100)

 

[chrispiper]

Tom has a good point about a backup. Again, every ounce counts so I wouldn't bring another M body. I love my Olympus XA, I think it would be ideal as a backup. Small, compact, light weight, metered and tough. It's also a 35mm and has an excellent lens. The clamshell seals out dust and dirt and it can bounce around with little ill effect. One or two sets of spare batteries are miniscule and featherweight. Or you could look for another fixed lens rangefinder but I think the XA fits the bill perfectly.

Chris